doing a PCV replacement

azureblue · Post by **azureblue** » 23 May 2018, 09:15

Ready to replace my PCV system, I've watched the vids, got the kit, and am ready to dive in. About how long does the job take, though?

Post by **oragex** » 23 May 2018, 09:57

Non turbo are quite faster than turbo (the job that is, not the engine)

You will get any kind of answers. Mine sounds more like, reserve a full day or better - two and during weekdays so you can head to the dealer and buy parts if needed - new manifold gasket is needed and on turbo new throttle body may be needed. Don't forget the specific tools to get to the manifold bolts

Archer · Post by **Archer** » 23 May 2018, 12:00

Much easier if you're not in a rush so you can address other items as you go. I just did my 2002 V70 T5 and I'm on to my parents 2006 V70 2.5T. I bought the genuine Volvo pcv kit from FCP, however, I bought the less expensive kit that does not come with the crankcase breather pipe assembly and purchased the Pcv nipple (part #30731007) separately which becomes plugged and brittle. Anyhow, really is an easy job, the most difficult thing for me was the rh bottom intake manifold bolt which requires a 10mm swivel socket, not universal joint with socket, and a combination of extensions. The banjo bolt requires a 17mm stubby, or you can remove the throttle body first and get at it with a regular size 17mm. Good time to replace vacuum hoses, replace brittle wire conduit/new tape, clean throttle body, remove and clean fuel injectors (new o-ring and filter baskets)...also, very good idea to change the thermostat assembly since you're right there and the IM is off. Oh, Lisle offset boot pliers (Lisle 30600) for the hard to get at oeticker clamps. 3M Super 33 or 88 is good electrical tape for the engine bay.

Post by **oragex** » 23 May 2018, 12:34

Wise about the thermostat thing. I personally have't replaced the injector o-rings and no leak but absolutely coat them with a smear of Vaseline before placing back (and clean them pristine, same for their hole inside the engine).

azureblue · Post by **azureblue** » 23 May 2018, 13:25

Thanks - weather permitting, I think I will split this into a two day job...

I didn't get the Pcv nipple (part #30731007) with my kit - can I just clean mine of it is not brittle?

Post by **Rattnalle** » 23 May 2018, 13:28

I spent two or three hours trying to get the darned banjo bolt on the underside of the intake manifold back in. Don't know how many times i dropped the washers. It's a terrible design, it's not a straight 90 degree fit so it's hard to get the angle right and the tube connected to the banjo is too short to do it anywhere but in place.

The rest took some time but wasn't too bad to do. All in all a days work or so. I did some other stuff as well.

azureblue · Post by **azureblue** » 23 May 2018, 13:43

Thanks - keep 'em coming - I'm still learning..

Archer · Post by **Archer** » 23 May 2018, 15:11

Part #30731007 is only $42, I would just replace it.

Banjo bolt: for sure, those 2 copper washers are a bear! Actually, lucky for me, my gf helps me with all the car projects. Once I had the banjo bolt fitted up thru the pcv fitting/nipple thing, she slid the top copper washer on the bolt and then I threaded it in and tightended with a 17 mm stubby. Don't think I could have done it myself.

Per the FCP PCV video, Jason says that he uses a 10mm swivel socket. It must be a a compact socket of sorts (Snap-On..?) that fits in that gap between the thermostat housing and IM. I bought a craftsman 10mm swivel socket and the clearance due to the socket body size, does not allow it to align/fit on the bolt head...it hits the back of the thermostat assembly. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but this is crucial that you loosen that bolt before taking everything apart.
I used a 10" long 1/4" drive extension with a 10 mm socket sliding in over the alternator and straight onto the bolt head...but even with that, the socket body hits the bottom/back of the thermostat assembly. I made sure I pushed it on with force when aligned and turned the ratchet slowly with pressure as to not let it slip off the head. The bolts are spec'd for 22 ft lbs I believe. Anyhow, this can be a problem area and I've read that people have had luck with "crow foot" sockets, too. Also, assuming you utilize the same extension/socket combo, once you loosen that bolt a few turns or less the back of the socket will hit the thermostat assembly, which is fine, it's loose....but when re-installing the IM after you've installed the PCV components, that bolt has to be screwed in enough to allow the IM to fit/slot on and also not too far out to prevent the 10mm socket from fitting on bolt head(the socket, due to it's body length, will hit the thermostat assembly preventing it from squaring up) It's almost like a 10mm "stubby" socket is required....?

Also...make sure you tape the socket to the extension when doing this. So easy for the socket to catch and have it fall into that gap below the thermostat assembly. Make sure you have a telescoping magnet.

I would like to hear how other people faired, as well.

Post by **Rattnalle** » 23 May 2018, 16:03

I used two short 1/4" extensions with "wiggle heads" and a regular 10 mm socket to get to the hard to reach bolt beneath the thermostat. Worked OK.

Post by **chrism** » 23 May 2018, 17:08

Rattnalle wrote: ↑23 May 2018, 16:03 I used two short 1/4" extensions with "wiggle heads" and a regular 10 mm socket to get to the hard to reach bolt beneath the thermostat. Worked OK.

The next time I do a PCV service I am going to explore the possibility of replacing the IM bolts with torx heads. That would mean slipping a skinnier tool in next to the thermo housing.