2000 V70R Possible Burnt Valve - looking for advice

configsys · Post by **configsys** » 15 Jun 2018, 15:54

I read this thread in its entirety since it seems I have the same problem but am still undecided on what I should do.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=60815

Background: Owned this vehicle since 2013 w/150K miles and been enjoying it and doing all the work myself. Regular synthetic oil changes every 4K miles. Just went over 201K miles a few weeks ago. Before this, the only thing that doesn't work are the headlight wipers, both disconnected but 1 does work and I also have the replacement for the other but never bothered to install it.

Just 2 months ago, I had the rear driveshaft replaced. Timing belt was due for replacement in 4K miles so I was planning on doing that. Anyways, love the car but I know that my wife doesn't want me to sink a lot of money into it since at the end of the day, it's still an 18 y/o vehicle w/ 200K+ miles on it.

Problem: Yesterday, CEL came on with a P0303 (Misfire on cyl 3) so I performed a compression check (dry/wet)and here are the results: cyl 1=140/150, cyl 2=140/150, cyl 3=0/0, cyl 4=140/160, and cyl 5=60/70.

From what I read everything points to a burnt valve. It appears I can get a remanufactured head w/ a warranty from Clearwater Cylinder Heads in FL for $600. I never have done any major work like this but I am retired so I do have the time to learn from Youtube and do it myself. Just called my independent Volvo shop and am awaiting a quote but in the meantime, I am gathering what my options are.
1. Have the cylinder head replaced?
2. Have the engine re-built or replaced?
3. Sell it as-is?
4. Scrap it?

This site has been such a tremendous help and is where I get my knowledge and confidence to attempt to do the work myself.
Would love to hear everyone's opinion and advise.

Post by **wizechatmgr** » 15 Jun 2018, 17:57

I've used Clearwater Cylinder Heads on a VW previously and everything went well. You could also just take the head off and bring it to a local machine shop.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 15 Jun 2018, 19:19

Having a machine shop rework the existing head is certainly an option, particularly since it wasn't a victim of a broken timing belt. I have not checked on the valves for a '99 High Pressure Turbo engine so I am uncertain as to the cost. On the 850s the HPT engines had very expensive, sodium filled, exhaust valves and the last time I checked they were over $20.00 / Valve. With a local rework you could just have the machine shop replace the bad valve (or valves as the case may be, I would have them replace any of them that show signs of burning) and have them re-seat the rest of them. You will want to replace all of the seals while it is there but a local machine shop could likely do it for less than the cost of Clearwater head.

Where a Clearwater head is economical is when the timing belt broke and a bunch of the valves got bent. It is also quicker to have the replacement head there ready to go as soon as you remove the old one but it doesn't sound like this is the sole mode of transportation for you and you can withstand a few days in the machine shop time wise.

While we have had generally good reviews from members that have used Clearwater we have also had some members with negative experiences. As with anything, you pays your money and takes your chances.

...Lee

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 16 Jun 2018, 09:34

I would recommend either going with a rebuilt head from Clearwater or a similar company or having it reworked at a local shop. I certainly wouldn't scrap a 2000 R!
I don't think there's a need to rebuild the whole engine. Replacing it with a lower mileage engine is an option if you can get one for a similar cost to the head, but a B5244T2 isn't a common engine, and you'd probably have to go with a 2.3 B5234T3 out of a T5.

Then the final option if you really don't want to sink any more money into it, sell it as-is. Somebody like me would pick it up in a heartbeat! I just recently saved a 2000 R from being scrapped. Currently manual swapping it.

configsys · Post by **configsys** » 16 Jun 2018, 12:49

Thanks for all the advice. I don't mind removing the cylinder head but I've never done that kind of work before and will need guidance. You're right about the B5244T2 being rare. When I called Clearwater they said I needed the engine number which I didn't have yet and when I got it, I realized they don't have it listed on their site. After reading this thread viewtopic.php?t=45884 it scares me a bit about proceeding with this task since I don't have the skills or afraid I'll just make matters worse.

Post by **FLXC90** » 16 Jun 2018, 14:08

This is actually a straightforward mechanical operation. There are so many tutorials on R&R of the head, default is the truesoap version. You will have differences due to the CVVT hub. Robert just recently put out a video on rebuilding the head. Your concerns are the valve stem diameter, lifter type, and correct valves.
I would suggest to anyone with modest to moderate skills, take your time, research, pull the head yourself. Do as much disassembly as you can yourself. Then let a shop check the head for true, guides if necessary, seats if necessary.
You will need special tools to remove the valve springs.

Biggest concern while disassembling, meticulously keep track of what went where. Egg cartons or divided trays marked for which valve position 1-10 intake and exhaust.

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 16 Jun 2018, 15:08

A block of styrofoam or the like is helpful for marking and keeping valves in place.
Robert has a couple of great videos on this topic.

The head removal isn't too bad of a process. I've never done it on a white block, but I have done it on my old Saab 9-5, and it was actually pretty easy. Take your time, read over the writeups, watch some RobertDIY on Youtube, and you'll be set!

Post by **abscate** » 16 Jun 2018, 19:27

Check the helper forum for any SLUTs nearby for moral support.

That didn’t write quite like I meant

Post by **wizechatmgr** » 16 Jun 2018, 20:49

abscate wrote: ↑16 Jun 2018, 19:27 Check the helper forum for any SLUTs nearby for moral support.

That didn’t write quite like I meant

SLUTs - is that like a new kind of educational credential, similar to a PhD?

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 17 Jun 2018, 07:20

wizechatmgr wrote: ↑16 Jun 2018, 20:49
abscate wrote: ↑16 Jun 2018, 19:27 Check the helper forum for any SLUTs nearby for moral support.

That didn’t write quite like I meant
SLUTs - is that like a new kind of educational credential, similar to a PhD?

They may want you to think so.