Cam seal cost Topic is solved

redc70 · Post by **redc70** » 02 Jul 2018, 14:14

Hello all. I took RedC70 to a Swedish Indy in Houston today to get the soft top looked at. Another story....
I asked them to check the heater core as I can at times smell antifreeze while the windows are up and I know the dangers and woes of losing coolant while driving. They checked all with a pressure tester and said no worries, but what I was smelling was probably oil. Now I know the dif between oil and sweet smelling antifreeze! Well, they said the front of the engine was covered in oil and that my cam seals were to blame. I actually thought the oil leak was the turbo return line. I had the water pump, pulley, idler and belt changed at 145k, it now has 154k and just started leaking, but not much about a month ago. The cost from this shop is $1500 for the whole deal. i can forego the water pump and stuff as it was just doneso the price drops to $1100. The problem seems to be oil splashing and weakening the T-belt. I think 1500 is a bit steep...errr a LOT steep?!
After I take the cover off and look at the belt, what else should I be looking for besides oil everywhere?
Is this a fairly simple DIY? I've just replaced the radiator on this car and also my 300E as well as shocks, tie rods and sway bar bushings on same Mercedes. So, I can at least handle a wrench and follow instructions.
I would surely appreciate any help or advice in what to do next.
Many thanks in advance.

Post by **scot850** » 02 Jul 2018, 14:27

When was the crankcase breather system last cleaned (PCV system)? This is the normal cause of oil seals blowing out as the system blocks with age causing more crankcase pressure and blows out the seal.

Look for PCV + Glove test to see if you are getting excess pressure in the system. If you are, then replacing the cam seals will just blow them out again, along with the Real main seal (RMS which is a 10 hour job).

The trickiest part of cam seal replacement is getting the old and new ones out and back in without damaging the surfaces and the new seals. The only other difficult issue is setting the VVT solenoid on the cam belt for a 99- car.

On the anti-freeze/coolant issue, pull back the driver's side carpet from behind the gas peddle and look for tracer runs from the bottom of the heater core. Sometimes the core themselves may be getting there but the 2 x 'O' ring seals for the 2 pipes into it can harden and start to weep with age. If they are, it makes sense to just replace the heater core anyway if it is the original.

Neil.

dj_v70 · Post by **dj_v70** » 02 Jul 2018, 14:31

You want to test the PCV system to make sure that it isn't causing the leak. Most cars get excessive pressure and blow oil out the seals. My car had excessive vacuum (no, not excessive pressure) due to PCV torn diaphram, front seal was weeping oil. Not sure if that is related or not. Just in case though, I'd check for excessive pressure or vacuum at oil cap and oil dip stick.

redc70 · Post by **redc70** » 02 Jul 2018, 14:46

Thanks for the replies. I did check the PCV a few weeks ago. I don't know when if ever it has been done but the glove test turned out fine. Didn't inflate at all. Just kinda laid there.
This is a gorgeous car but I think the PO neglected many things and did poor repairs. Trying to get it back to stage 0. The T belt was done at 145k because I had no evidence it had ever been done. Radiator was result of straddling a deer carcass at 80 mph.

redc70 · Post by **redc70** » 02 Jul 2018, 15:54

Results of glove test done just a few minutes ago. I was sure that it tested ok. it does

Post by **scot850** » 02 Jul 2018, 17:14

PCV diaphragm? What the heck is that? Maybe it is a translation issue, but none that I am aware of on a 5 cylinder white block Volvo engine or anything that could be considered a diaphragm.

Neil.

Post by **June** » 02 Jul 2018, 18:05

$1500 is what that job w/waterpump cam and crank seals cost. So why trust a indi charging dealer money for that job? Rethink your choice of shop! June

redc70 · Post by **redc70** » 02 Jul 2018, 18:28

Well, because I did not know that is what a dealer would charge? Which is why I asked if that was a legitimate price in the first place. Dealer or indie.

Post by **tryingbe** » 02 Jul 2018, 20:00

Timing belt job is about 2-3 hours, and seals probably add 30 minutes. Get a second quote.

Post by **SuperHerman** » 02 Jul 2018, 20:20

Leaking cam seals at 154k is not abnormal. You should have had them changed with the timing belt. Changing the belt is much easier and less work than changing the seals as the VVT hubs cause many problems for the untrained.

To do the front seals you need to have the Volvo cam lock tools. The VVT hubs are a beast to remove and require considerable force. Homemade tools usually bend. That said the job itself is not difficult, the problem is aligning the VVT hubs afterwards.

This is a Volvo specialist art. Some read the instructions and watch the videos and have no issues. I had a shop do it once, and after their third failed attempt I brought it to a Volvo specialist and he sorted it out easy. When I did my 2001 XC70 with a single VVT hub I nailed it on the first try.

Get a second quote from a shop that has done many 2.5/2.4 engines, have all the seals replaced (front and back) plus put on a new timing belt (worth the extra costs as yours had oil on it - plus for $40 you will get another extra 10k until you have to do it again - good until 250k). A good shop can do the job in a few hours as they know the tricks and you should be able to get them to knock off a few hundred bucks. Don't be afraid to negotiate.