08 3.2 right lower engine mount clearance

Post by **ogatrulle** » 15 Jul 2018, 00:02

I replaced five of the six engine mounts/torque rods a few weeks ago but just got my replacement bolts for the right lower "pad" this week.

Today I intended to replace the right lower pad. Got the RF wheel off and saw that I would not be able to access the forward lower bolt that attaches the pad to the frame (not enough clearance from the engine above).

How do you get a ratchet+socket onto this bolt?

I considered loosening the RR and right upper torque rods, undoing the pad-to-engine bolts, and jacking the right side of the engine up, but I am concerned about overextending the right driveshaft (leading to spontaneous disassembly) as the RF hub/knuckle/LCA are already hanging down.

Anyone done this on the 3.2?

The rear lower bolt looks like a bit of a pain as well with the driveshaft in the way but I think I can barely get a torque wrench with a short extension on it.

Post by **oragex** » 15 Jul 2018, 03:45

Do you have a picture of it? I've done the same on a S60 and to work properly I had indeed to remove the driveshaft (not just toss it from the wheel hub, but completely remove it from there). With the shaft in place, I was still able to place the socket when using a very shallow (opposite of deep) 1/2 socket, but the rotations are so limited, it makes no sense, much easier to spend time and remove the drive shaft which is not that bad including the carrier bearing bracket. If you are in the rust belt, you will also find the lower bolts very hard to remove as they corrode inside the subframe.

Post by **ogatrulle** » 15 Jul 2018, 11:02

: right-lower-mount.jpg (60.49 KiB) Viewed 1433 times

Here is the mount (08 xc90 3.2 right lower). You can see the head of the forward frame bolt right under the engine. The head of the rear frame bolt is barely visible on the left. Of course, the four engine bolts are clearly visible.

I was able to get a socket+extension+torque wrench on the rear frame bolt with minor interference at the inner CV boot (visible in the photo). Indeed, there is not much room to swing it but I believe I can get at least one ratchet click.

My bigger issue is the forward frame bolt on the right of the photo. The engine will need to come up about two inches for me to get the torque wrench and socket in there. If I leave the axle attached at both ends, that will elongate it about 1.5 inches further from its already-elongated state with the hub hanging down (tire off).

I'd like to avoid undoing the axle but will do it if I have to. If I remember right from when I did the LCAs, I'll need a new axle bolt.

Post by **oragex** » 15 Jul 2018, 12:45

It's different than the S60. Can you undo the 4 bolts on the engine side, then lift the engine some 1-2 inches ? Survey the power steering line that's passing right behind, maybe protect if with a piece of wood from getting crushed. (there may be other pipes in the area as well)

Post by **ogatrulle** » 15 Jul 2018, 12:49

Yes, I am pretty sure I can undo the 4 engine bolts (as well as the two torque bars on the right side) and lift the engine. My main question is whether that is going to elongate the CV axle so much that the joints fall apart.

Post by **oragex** » 15 Jul 2018, 14:15

That,s the long one, right? With the bearing carrier. The joint near the bearing can elongate without problems. But safer to jack the wheel hub under the ball joint, this way the axle will have plenty of movement available.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJQkFPYjh5E

Post by **ogatrulle** » 23 Jul 2018, 14:16

Thanks for your input. Time for me to get a second jack and some new axle bolts. Given parts shipping time and my work schedule, it will probably be a few weeks until I can get at this project, but I will try to report back after completion.