2008 S60 2.5T Fwd Turbo Removal

Steve H · Post by **Steve H** » 01 Aug 2018, 20:02

I need to change the turbo on my sons car. Volvo's procedure says in short to undo passenger side ball joint, remove axle, remove heat shield, undo all turbo lines and to remove the turbo and exhaust manifold as a unit. My question, to someone that has actually done the job, is can you remove the turbo on a FWD without removing the drive shaft or exhaust manifold? I would have thought you could remove the 4 nuts for the turbo to exhaust manifold and remove it without the exhaust manifold being disturbed from the head. Thank you in advance for any help or confirmation of this procedure.
Edit/Delete Message

Post by **SuperHerman** » 02 Aug 2018, 00:29

You do not have to remove turbo and exhaust manifold as a unit. I just dealt with this on my 2004 XC90 T6. I learned that Volvo does not sell just the turbo cartridge which is what you want to replace and/or rebuild. They sell the entire turbo/manifold/wastegate acutator as one assembly - and for big bucks. I would imagine the same holds for your vehicle. It makes sense as everything is replaced, but it is a very labor and cost prohibitive approach. So going in the direction I took on two Volvos and what you are asking:

See here: viewtopic.php?t=20325

and here: viewtopic.php?t=71167

also check out Robert's YouTube videos - they are for earlier Volvos but the basics are the same.

What follows are my thoughts and experience on similar cars. I have not done it on your car, but I did it on a 2001 XC70. The AWD, which you don't have, makes it much harder and some remove various awd components. I did not. As the write ups state it is pretty straight forward but getting the correct tool on certain nuts and bolts makes the job difficult.

Drain your coolant in a container before you start - just undo the drain plug, pull the coolant cap and let it drain. Once it stops tighten the drain. On one attempt I forgot this step and thought only a little would come out - I had a pan nearby so the mess was not that large, but a ton of coolant drained in the end. This was for the XC90 - but I would not risk the huge puddle. Just drain it properly and you will only have a few drops when you remove the turbo coolant lines.

Overall on the XC70 I had no real issues, but used a wide assortments of extensions, swivels and swivel sockets - most 1/4". Look to snake extensions through various small spaces and connect the socket/swivel once cleared. A small mirror is a must. Some cars have Torx bolts on the turbo oil drain line and some have allen head bolts - you have to check via your mirror or from underneath. This two bolts are the hardest part in my experience. I believe the newer cars are Torx. These are a serious pain to remove and install. You need to be straight or you will strip the heads. The Torx are a little more forgiving. One approach I did not use, but would have had I a helper would have been to hold the Torx or allen from above to keep it aligned and true while someone below with a nice extension and swivel did the tightening. On the XC70 and XC90 I tightened these first as it afforded me more room. Getting the gasket on is by feel and mirror. Do one side first - slip the NEW gasket in, check with your mirror to see if it is aligned and start the bolt, then check the other side and do the same. This is all done by feel. Then tighten it up. For your car as it is fwd it may be really easy from below so check this out first.

I don't recall the coolant and oil banjo bolts on the XC70. For the XC90 the coolant was a Torx T50 and the oil feed was a 10mm which was a straight shot from the top. For the Torx I used a ratcheting box end 8mm over my 3/8" Torx socket. I just had enough room between the socket/bolt and the firewall. I needed a small breaker bar (socket and extension that fit over the wrench end) on the 8mm ratcheting box end to break the bolt. After a few turns I removed the tool and socket and finished with my fingers. Both coolant lines have this clearance issue. Once you have the right set up it is actually really easy. I think if you had a 1/4" T50 (or what ever your car takes) it would be even easier as my 3/8" Torx socket was too long.

One other item - your turbo may have a tiny guide pin which needs to be aligned or it will not sit flush. I suggest you mark both sides on the outside with a clear scratch, pen or bright nail polish prior to reinstall. If I recall the pin is on the manifold and the hole is on the turbo cartridge. It will make sense once it is apart. If you do this alignment will be easier. If the turbo is stuck tap it gently with a rubber mallet or piece of wood while holding it with the other hand to catch it. You can use a pry bar but be gentle. It should come out easy but beware if it pops out suddenly. You don't want to chip a fin. If the lines are in the way so removal is restricted stop put the turbo back in place and figure out the solution. On the XC90 which is still fresh in my mind I had to pull the turbo out slightly, tilt and lift it up at an angle. The back of the turbo (not the fins which is your concern) hit a few lines on the way out. Your S60 may be a lot easier. Just be careful that the fins don't get chipped.

For my rebuild kit I sourced it from Midwest Turbo in Wisconsin. I have used them for a 5-6 different turbos. Great outfit and they sell quality stuff. For the XC90 I bought an Ebay turbo as a fin was damaged and it did not last a week - think twice if you go this route. I wasted $181 plus the time and labor and a new gasket.

Steve H · Post by **Steve H** » 02 Aug 2018, 06:29

Thank you so much for the detailed information and the time you spent doing it. I will review your links after work tonight. I am installing a brand new complete turbo.

Post by **jonesg** » 02 Aug 2018, 14:42

Steve H wrote: ↑02 Aug 2018, 06:29 Thank you so much for the detailed information and the time you spent doing it. I will review your links after work tonight. I am installing a brand new complete turbo.

Did mine 18 months ago, major pain on the awd models.
Bought a fully balanced turbo cartridge from england thru ebay. $178. Worked out fine.

Only thing i would add is the gasket for the oil drain can be glued to the flange with indian head shellac.
Fwd will be a lot easier, its just fiddly.

I got a very low profile ratchet from hf

: 1/4 and 3/8 thin profile.

Steve H · Post by **Steve H** » 02 Aug 2018, 14:51

Thank you. I will need to go check that ratchet out at HF. I have not seen that one but I would like to have one. You can never have too many tools.

Steve H · Post by **Steve H** » 16 Aug 2018, 07:55

I wanted to post a follow up to my original post. First off the turbo is changed and the PCV system has been replaced. Time will tell how oil consumption goes. Turbo has a lot of shaft play and some discolor to the aluminum housing at the intake air impeller where it was brushing it from play in the shaft bearing. Contrary to Volvo's official procedure to remove the turbo on this 2.5 FWD 2008 S60 the turbo will come off without removing it as a unit with the exhaust manifold. You also do not have to remove the passenger side axle as Volvo says do. I did have to remove from the block and turbo the oil feeder line but I would have done that anyway to carb cleaner flush that pipe out to insure it had full oil flow for the new turbo. I will warn you that the Banjo bolt copper washers are larger for the block banjo bolt on the oil supply line than they are on the turbo fittings. I also did not like the fit of the banjo bolt washers that came with the turbo so I went with Volvo parts for this. They were too loose on the bolt and too thin. I pre-soaked all exhaust and turbo bolts down with 50/50 ATF and acetone and all bolts came undone with no problem. I did replace those "golden" turbo nuts that Volvo wants $10 each for with Volvo "golden valued" nuts.

I am also happy to report, with 160K on the clock, that the PVC system was not clogged at all. I replaced the box with OEM and hoses from the box to the valve cover and box to block. I also put in part number 30731007 to replace the PCV nipple at the banjo bolt under the corner of the intake on the passenger side (starting that bolt back was noooooo fun. My plastic tube on that part snapped in two places the minute I touched it. It sounded like a twig snapping. The rest of the "monster" PCV/coolant hose was in great shape and clearly passed compressed air as did the oil pan drain from the catch box to the block out of the oil fill when testing. I used the Volvo style crimp clamps on all connections and it turned out looking very professionally done. I also replaced wiring loom covers on knock sensors that were literally all to pieces from heat while I was in there and cleaned the throttle body and installed a new gasket. All and all this was a big job to tackle but very satisfying to do the work yourself and know you covered all the bases. Now I just hope for another 160K out of the car. Time will tell. Thank you again for everyone's help.

Post by **abscate** » 20 Aug 2018, 03:38

When I did my 1999 PCV I started the pass side banjo with the manifold off, then installed the manifold, then put the last connection on top of the PCV box and pushed it on from above with a3/8 extender bar blunt end.

It wast too bad to work the clamp down with a screw driver then tighten with a flex extender and mirror.

dlundblad · Post by **dlundblad** » 22 Aug 2018, 03:49

This post makes me wonder if I should hoard a spare turbo just in case.

How'd you like that skinny ratchet anyways? I actually bought one for the S60's control arms since space is so limited, but I needed leverage. Thankfully on the most stubborn bolt I was able to use a 3/8 breaker bar after raising the engine a bit and just kick it loose. Not sure if that ratchet could have taken the abuse or not, but I've removed lug nuts with it issue free as well.

Post by **jonesg** » 22 Aug 2018, 04:04

dlundblad wrote: ↑22 Aug 2018, 03:49 This post makes me wonder if I should hoard a spare turbo just in case.

How'd you like that skinny ratchet anyways? I actually bought one for the S60's control arms since space is so limited, but I needed leverage. Thankfully on the most stubborn bolt I was able to use a 3/8 breaker bar after raising the engine a bit and just kick it loose. Not sure if that ratchet could have taken the abuse or not, but I've removed lug nuts with it issue free as well.

An offset box end wrench is good for control arm bolts.

dlundblad · Post by **dlundblad** » 22 Aug 2018, 04:09

jonesg wrote: ↑22 Aug 2018, 04:04
dlundblad wrote: ↑22 Aug 2018, 03:49 This post makes me wonder if I should hoard a spare turbo just in case.

How'd you like that skinny ratchet anyways? I actually bought one for the S60's control arms since space is so limited, but I needed leverage. Thankfully on the most stubborn bolt I was able to use a 3/8 breaker bar after raising the engine a bit and just kick it loose. Not sure if that ratchet could have taken the abuse or not, but I've removed lug nuts with it issue free as well.
An offset box end wrench is good for control arm bolts.

I tried them, but no luck. These were very rusted I guess.