2004 s60r misfire dead cylinder

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 03 Jun 2018, 20:34

I've spent a little time looking around but haven't been able to find the sequence / torque specs on the head bolts,,,, for that matter the cam cover bolts too.

Cylinder head
Tighten the screws in sequence from the center and outwards.

: CylinderHead.jpeg (59.82 KiB) Viewed 1237 times

Stage 1........20 Nm
Stage 2........60 Nm
Stage 3........130°

I think the Camshaft cover bolts are M7 Class 8.8, torque would be 17Nm. Confirm the bolt size and class.

General tightening torque
Note! Screws coated with a locking fluid or self locking nuts must be replaced with new when reinstalled.

See the table below to find the tightening torques for components not included in the summary.
Nuts and screws which are not self locking can be reused provided that they are in good condition.

Applies to screwed joint with strength class 8.8.
Thread Tightening torque (Nm)
M5 - 5 Nm
M6 - 10 Nm
M7 - 17 Nm
M8 - 24 Nm
M10 - 50 Nm
M12 - 80 Nm
M14 - 130 Nm

swedehast · Post by **swedehast** » 05 Jun 2018, 12:14

Thanks Rick !

Will be doing that tonight along with new water pump and tensioner

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 05 Jun 2018, 13:16

You did get new head bolts? The Stage 3........130° stretches the bolts. They are suppose to stretch one time only. Stretching them a second time is crap shooting.

swedehast · Post by **swedehast** » 05 Jun 2018, 15:56

Hi Rick

Yes all new fasteners, and expensive........ wow

swedehast · Post by **swedehast** » 25 Jul 2018, 13:27

Thanks again Rick and Abscate et al

Yes it's been awhile. So I'm nearing completion of rebuild including the purchase ( waiting ) for obscure stock parts and so forth. I have a couple questions, just to be sure.

1 ) I purchased a number of items through Groton, generally pretty good, but the " timing belt kit " I purchased included a new TB tensioner that did NOT fit. I rechecked my order together with the VIN # and it appears there are ( at least )two tensioners. My guess is maybe the tensioner I recd either is for a " S60 " or perhaps the tensioner changed with later ( or earlier ) engines. There are two tabs ( wings ) that the tensioner slots onto, on the block. The tensioner I recd had tabs that were ( are ) very short and did NOJT engage the " boss " cast into the block. The old tensioner ( which I am using ) the " tabs " ( wings ) are appreciably longer and straddle the casting on the block.

In either case the tensioner requires insertion of a hex key and rotating the position of the hax key slot to the approx 7 oclock position to release tension of the belt ( together with holding a tab over ) The new tensioner comes with the hex key slot near the 12 oclock position. My question is, is the 12 oclock position where the hex key tab " IS SUPPOSED TO BE ???? "

2 ) How much play is there in the timing belt. I have perhaps max 1 cm deflection between the timing cam gears.

( I just had a little concern that if the TB tensioner was the incorrect one could the timing belt be the wrong one too )

After reassembly all the timing marks line up exactly and I've rotated the engine thru 4 rev by hand and there was no interference and the marks line up exact.

I have been buying some parts from the dealer and took the tensioner to the dealer, in the original ( Volvo ) box together with the VIN number and the dealer pulled one from the shelf and found what I recd WAS a different number and the tabs were definitely shorter.

Thanks for your help

Post by **oragex** » 25 Jul 2018, 16:46

That's correct there are two type of tensioners www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yd5gHFnHaYk

Volvo changed it around 2004 so you are right in the grey area where it's easy to order the wrong part.

As for the hex hole position this video should answer (sorry, it's a lengthy video for such a detail) www.youtube.com/watch?v=CG_X9rwpGjo

Jason also shows that, he installs the tensioner with the hex hole at about 11 o'clock www.youtube.com/watch?v=IK_zH8g8Fow

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 25 Jul 2018, 17:24

2004 S60R, the engine should be B5254T4. There are two different tensioners for the B5254T4.
1. Volvo part number 30684210 for engine serial numbers up to and including engine serial number 3188688.
2. Volvo part number 30637955 for engine serial numbers 3188689 and beyond.

There is a third tensioner, Volvo part number 30638277 which is not for the B5254T4.
Which one of the three do you have and is it the right one for your engine serial number.

swedehast · Post by **swedehast** » 25 Jul 2018, 23:40

Thanks Rick and Orange
My eng number is 3241922. I reinstalled the tensioner ( which the former owner had told me was just replaced b4 he sold the car )
It DID look pretty new and no bearing noise nor drag when spun by hand
The tensioner I received is 30684210, and the two small tabs DO NOT slot the casting on the block. Idle pully is new as is water pump
Belt was tight fit maybe a little more of a chore to get on than my 850R engine with simple cam gears but that could be since I've changed the 850 belt a number of times. I did like the tensioner / grenade pin of the 850 ( also ) seemed easier than the cam on the newer tensioner.
Anyway, this evening I put new mounts and seats on the front struts. Tomorrow I pick up some of the air baffles surrounding the radiators and can finish tightening up all the hoses and put the fan in. Hope to get the intake manifold in and finish routing the intake and turbo snorkles on sat, change the oil, fill it with water and check for leaks.
Sunday will see the battery go in and fit the fuel rail, injectors and igniters.
Take a deep breath and ........

Post by **erikv11** » 27 Jul 2018, 08:24

........ vrooom!

swedehast · Post by **swedehast** » 11 Aug 2018, 17:08

FINALLY !!!!!!!!!

Almost vroom. I installed battery and turned key to prompt fuel pump and saw fuel blowing out connector at fuel rail. It took a few tries 1) I have the " old style " connector but main thing is to feel pipe flange snap home. I checked this and turned fuel pump on again and was good so I tightened up the bolts on the rail went to start it and poof, fuel all over again. I noticed pipe had popped out of connector. I figured for some reason when tightening the two bolts I was somehow pulling the pipe out of the connector, so for now cinched up the pipe and just put one bolt on left slightly loose. That seems to work for the moment ( at least not having fuel spray all over )
2) Car started pretty quickly, then went into " engine lope " wouldn't rev at all, would idle ok, no rev.
3) 6 codes came up ALL indicating throttle / pedal position / sensor I gave a tug to the plug in at the throttle body and it came out easily so it wasn't pushed in all the way. Once that was tight,,,,, VROOOOOOM !

4 ) Does seem to have exhaust leak, I can hear a little puffing on the exhaust side

Ran car long enough to get a little warm so I can re-torque the in/ ex bolts and so forth, but,,, wow pretty cool.

Now I can put the suspensions and front end back on knowing the car runs ( pretty well )

I would like to thank all of you for your advice and assistance

2004 s60r misfire dead cylinder

Re: 2004 s60r misfire dead cylinder