Need help getting lower charge pipe to seal to intercooler

[SuperHerman]

Buy a new pipe to engine inter-cooler hose and be done with it. The RTV over time will become loose and get sucked into the turbo - that connection hose is water logged with oil.

They get soft over time due to the heat and oil. Examine your original hose clamps for signs of damage. If over-torqued they can develop bald spots and just tighten to that point. Check the site sponsors for the replacement part. Prices range from about $15-120 or so. I believe this is the correct part number: 31261370

[Rollvo]

Within the last year my plastic portions of the intake and charge pipes had to be replaced due to leakage. The dealer simply put new parts on. It was the charge tubes that were leaking. I had no engine light or warnings that anything was wrong. After installing the new charge tubes the original clamps still being used as new ones don't come with the tubes would not hold the twin tubes in place under full boost. So the dealer put standard radiator type clamps and no more popping off charge tubes, and no more leaks. The soft rubber tubes are original. My 2004 S80 is a T6 so mine has two turbo chargers. My mechanic at the dealer said the original clamps with the metal backing have trouble with age. June

I added some photos of before tube and some clamps were replaced and now with new hard plastic tubes and which metal backed clamps were replaced with new regular clamps. Yours are somewhat different but likely have the same leak problem where the hard plastic tubes connect to another hard tube, not soft rubber tubes to hard plastic. I hope this makes sense. June

Thank you for your reply and photos. Since my original clamp got stripped out, I bought some regular hose clamps similar to the ones in your pictures. I thought they would be able to clamp with more force but they did not seal my leak. I pressurized the system and tried tightening/loosening it and couldn't get it to seal. I used the original metal backing/sleeve as it fit perfectly with the new clamp. I used the original sleeve thinking it would more evenly distribute the force of the clamp. I have not tried using just the clamp alone. It seems to me that there would be a gap under the screw mechanism of the clamp. I didn't mention in my original post that I did buy a new intercooler charge pipe and it didn't seal either. It behaved the same as my old one.

Could the leaky connection be out of round? Not the charge pipe, but the other pipe where the charge pipe is connected to? Just a thought. June

Out of round is a possibility too. I'm really hoping I don't need to replace the intercooler. It's a very small leak. That is why I ask how much of a leak is acceptable, but it seems no perceptible leak is the goal.

[Rollvo]

Buy a new pipe to engine inter-cooler hose and be done with it. The RTV over time will become loose and get sucked into the turbo - that connection hose is water logged with oil.

They get soft over time due to the heat and oil. Examine your original hose clamps for signs of damage. If over-torqued they can develop bald spots and just tighten to that point. Check the site sponsors for the replacement part. Prices range from about $15-120 or so. I believe this is the correct part number: 31261370

Where this intercooler charge pipe is (just before the intake of the engine, down below) the RTV would get sucked into the engine, I don't like either idea (being sucked into the engine or turbo). I did buy a new intercooler charge pipe from one of our sponsors, hoping to be done with it, but it leaked the same as the old one did. That is why I turned to this forum. After the new pipe leaked, I took a rubber turbo hose fitting with a plug to rule out the possibility that the leak was not at the intercooler fitting. It wasn't. That tells me the leak is in the pipe to intercooler connection, and is not sealing 100% It is not a huge leak, but it is enough leak that my compressor regulator cannot build enough pressure to register even 1 psi. This is one of the hard plastic pipes. It does not seem to have the problem of getting softer, if anything it is too hard, preventing it from sealing.

[June]

Thank you for your reply and photos. Since my original clamp got stripped out, I bought some regular hose clamps similar to the ones in your pictures. I thought they would be able to clamp with more force but they did not seal my leak. I pressurized the system and tried tightening/loosening it and couldn't get it to seal. I used the original metal backing/sleeve as it fit perfectly with the new clamp. I used the original sleeve thinking it would more evenly distribute the force of the clamp. I have not tried using just the clamp alone. It seems to me that there would be a gap under the screw mechanism of the clamp. I didn't mention in my original post that I did buy a new intercooler charge pipe and it didn't seal either. It behaved the same as my old one.

Could the leaky connection be out of round? Not the charge pipe, but the other pipe where the charge pipe is connected to? Just a thought. June

Out of round is a possibility too. I'm really hoping I don't need to replace the intercooler. It's a very small leak. That is why I ask how much of a leak is acceptable, but it seems no perceptible leak is the goal.

I want to point out when the dealer put the new pipes and had the leaks before the new clamps fixed the leaks there was loud hissing coming from under the hood every time I wound the rpms up. Higher the rpm the louder the hissing sound like the air escaping from a leaky tire times ten thousand. It was unmistakable and over several days came back several times until one side of the twin pipes popped out which caused total chaos and prompted my dealer to replace the clamps.

Have someone hold the brakes in drive and gently apply the gas which will activate the turbo and the leak location should be completely obvious. Then you can be sure to figure out the problem. That is exactly what my mechanic and his helper did several times when I brought the car back hissing before the clamps. 1psi indicates a major leak I would think. June

[SuperHerman]

You have the 2.5T per your original post. The pictures posted by another member are for the 2.9. (I have been battling an overboost situation of my XC90 so the pictures were too familiar)

I just did the pcv system on my brother's XC70 with the same 2.5T engine so it is fresh in my mind. The car has a hard plastic charge pipe that goes over the engine and attaches in the back with the rubber coupler I mentioned in my prior post. This joins the turbo to charge air pipe. You have replaced this coupler with no success.

The turbo side has two flanges that stop the hose from being pushed down too far - the coupler hose has to be flush with these two nubs. I would remove the hose and charge air pipe and seat the bottom turbo side first. Torque it down first.

Similarly the charge air pipe has a lip that stops the hose. On install make sure this is flush. Tighten this last, after you connect the intercooler side hose and two torx screws. That is all there is to it. If you are doing this I would look hard and long at the charge air pipe for cracks.

What brand part did you purchase? Rubber or silicon?

Originally I was going to tell you to force some air into the system, but I reread your first post and see you have done this and you are confident the leak is at the coupler. Are you confident there are no cracks in the plastic charge air pipe? Maybe the seam has split? This would cause your issues as the pipe will collapse as you tighten the hose clamps.

It is doubtful that the turbo side is out of round. If I recall correctly it is rather thick aluminum. Cracking of the plastic charge air pipe is not unheard of at all.

On my XC90 the charge air pipe leaked from the baffle seals, but your car does not have these. Lucky you as the part is $200. If you find the charge air pipe to be cracked a used part is not a bad option. Just check to make sure it is not brittle and cracked.

[Rollvo]

You have the 2.5T per your original post. The pictures posted by another member are for the 2.9. (I have been battling an overboost situation of my XC90 so the pictures were too familiar)

I just did the pcv system on my brother's XC70 with the same 2.5T engine so it is fresh in my mind. The car has a hard plastic charge pipe that goes over the engine and attaches in the back with the rubber coupler I mentioned in my prior post. This joins the turbo to charge air pipe. You have replaced this coupler with no success.

No. It is not the pipe that goes over the top of the engine. That one is easy to seal because it smartly has rubber hoses on each end of it.

The turbo side has two flanges that stop the hose from being pushed down too far - the coupler hose has to be flush with these two nubs. I would remove the hose and charge air pipe and seat the bottom turbo side first. Torque it down first.

Similarly the charge air pipe has a lip that stops the hose. On install make sure this is flush. Tighten this last, after you connect the intercooler side hose and two torx screws. That is all there is to it. If you are doing this I would look hard and long at the charge air pipe for cracks.

What brand part did you purchase? Rubber or silicon?

I used rubber. However this is not my issue. See the rest of my post below.

Originally I was going to tell you to force some air into the system, but I reread your first post and see you have done this and you are confident the leak is at the coupler. Are you confident there are no cracks in the plastic charge air pipe? Maybe the seam has split? This would cause your issues as the pipe will collapse as you tighten the hose clamps.

It is doubtful that the turbo side is out of round. If I recall correctly it is rather thick aluminum. Cracking of the plastic charge air pipe is not unheard of at all.

On my XC90 the charge air pipe leaked from the baffle seals, but your car does not have these. Lucky you as the part is $200. If you find the charge air pipe to be cracked a used part is not a bad option. Just check to make sure it is not brittle and cracked.

My problem was the lower plastic pipe that attaches to the driver's side of the intercooler, then up into the intake. There are no rubber hoses on either end of it. I think this is why it becomes more difficult to seal. I put a light strip of RTV silicone on the inside of each side of this pipe to give it something flexible to seal on. After this cured, I installed it and it appears to have solved my problem and is sealing.

Thank you for reading and replying to my post.

[Rollvo]

I have solved the problem by applying a very light layer of RTV (letting it cure before installing) to the inside of the pipe where it mates to the intercooler and the intake. I installed it and it does not leak. I appreciate everyone's suggestions and am willing to hear any other ideas on how to solve this problem.
It sounds like many people are getting confused as to which pipe I am trying to seal. It is not the pipe that goes over the top of the engine. It is a pipe that is tucked under the intake (less visible) and connects to the intercooler.

It is #6 on the image below, "charge air pipe".

[SuperHerman]

Makes sense now. You are not talking about #1 air pipe, but rather the pipe that goes from the intercooler, right driver side of the radiator, to the ETM (throttle body) on the passenger side #6.

This pipe can be a bear to take off and reinstall as over time the plastic gets pretty firm. It can also distort when removed. The plastic has been sitting for countless cycles in the same position. VIDA recommends hitting it with a heat gun before removal. The lower end, driver side is a known accumulation point for oil which of course degrades the plastic.

As you currently have a working solution leave sleeping dogs lie. Next time you take it off, and this also works for the airbox fittings, hit it with a heat gun or hair dryer to warm the plastic up.

For your pipe I would then clean the insides of the pipe and lightly sand with something like a scotch bright pad - you want it as smooth as possible. If it does not need sanding because it is already smooth don't sand. Do the same on the intercooler connection point. On reinstall warm the pipe with a heat gun and install it, warm it up again and tighten the clamps.

In this specific application I have read people using the rubber bike tire tubing cut to size. Not sure if you can get the pipe over it as it is a tight fit to start with. Silicon tape may just do the trick. Although I think a good clean and heat should suffice.

Anyway glad it is sorted out.

[Rollvo]

Makes sense now. You are not talking about #1 air pipe, but rather the pipe that goes from the intercooler, right driver side of the radiator, to the ETM (throttle body) on the passenger side #6.

This pipe can be a bear to take off and reinstall as over time the plastic gets pretty firm. It can also distort when removed. The plastic has been sitting for countless cycles in the same position. VIDA recommends hitting it with a heat gun before removal. The lower end, driver side is a known accumulation point for oil which of course degrades the plastic.

As you currently have a working solution leave sleeping dogs lie. Next time you take it off, and this also works for the airbox fittings, hit it with a heat gun or hair dryer to warm the plastic up.

For your pipe I would then clean the insides of the pipe and lightly sand with something like a scotch bright pad - you want it as smooth as possible. If it does not need sanding because it is already smooth don't sand. Do the same on the intercooler connection point. On reinstall warm the pipe with a heat gun and install it, warm it up again and tighten the clamps.

In this specific application I have read people using the rubber bike tire tubing cut to size. Not sure if you can get the pipe over it as it is a tight fit to start with. Silicon tape may just do the trick. Although I think a good clean and heat should suffice.

Anyway glad it is sorted out.

If I need to remove it again, I'll try heat. I've not tried heat yet. Rubber bike tire tubing is a good idea. I was thinking of using a rubber band at the time.

Now I'm chasing a P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire. This is a new topic that there is plenty of information to read up on.

Thanks again.