Testing 210 Relay with multimeter

BlackThunder · Post by **BlackThunder** » 20 Oct 2018, 18:18

Hello, I'm trying to diagnose my not starting issuenof my 97 850NA and I'm down to my immobilizer relay. I am new to using a Multimeter. Could someone explain what terminals I should be probing and possibly what ohm readings I should see?

Thank you.

Dustin

: Bottom of Relay 210 211

: Relay

Post by **precopster** » 20 Oct 2018, 20:04

I would say that the green connector has the coils which should have around 5 ohms across them.

That only gives an indication of coil failure which is extremely rare.

The most common type of failure in relays is burned out points so you'll need to open the case with some fine jeweler screwdrivers by prying on the case at as many points as you can while pulling the grey cover off the base. You'll see some polished contacts inside with a gap between them. They are the points and are usually pitted and burned.

Post by **abscate** » 21 Oct 2018, 06:10

You should just get a pick and pull one for 3 bucks And swap to diagnose. Check classifieds here too

Post by **jreed** » 21 Oct 2018, 06:50

This information may not help with your specific relay, but often the pins are labeled with 15, 30, 31, 87, 87a. I think in your picture it's possible to read 15 and 30 on a couple of the pins.
From what I've gathered, the these numbers are part of a DIN specification. To decode the numbers, you can look them up (for example, http://www.bosch-classic.com/media/en/b ... nungen.pdf )

15 = Switched positive after battery (ignition-switch output)
30 = Line from battery positive terminal (direct)
31 = Ground
87 = Input
87a = Output

BlackThunder · Post by **BlackThunder** » 21 Oct 2018, 07:32

Ok, thank you. I'll test it today and probably take it apart and re flow joints as needed. I'm trying to get to the bottom of my problem.

Dustin

Post by **misha** » 21 Oct 2018, 09:21

I had never seen that relay go bad.
The problem might lay in the immobiliser box(black box and it says Volvo immobiliser on it).
It's under the steering wheel panel .
But again....U.S market didn't had chipped keys until '98,so you shouldn't have immo ecu.

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 22 Oct 2018, 00:32

That’s the “Guard Alarm” security module.
There’s a lot more going on in there than
just relays. And IIRC, the three pin green
connector is the input from the key fob
receiver over on the passenger side kick.

I think 210/211 module ia also where the
code from the fob lives, so if you replace it,
you’ll probably have to reprogram your fob
code into it.

Post by **Clemens** » 24 Oct 2018, 06:09

Finally, after a year, I found this very informative thread again of how to disable the immobilizer of the 210/211 relay and still keep the keyless entry.

http://www.forums.turbobricks.com/showt ... p?t=238812

Post by **misha** » 24 Oct 2018, 08:16

I don't want to bring bad news...but U.S market immobiliser system is totally different from EU market.
If you have chipped key in '96 this will not work.

Post by **Clemens** » 24 Oct 2018, 10:05

Yeah, true, but remember this is about the FOB immobilizer which sits in relay 210/211 additionally to the chipped key.
Some day i locked my car with the remote and then it wouldn't unlock with the remote. Opening the door by key only triggered the alarm and I had to remove relay 210/211 and bridge 50e and 50? with a paper clip to drive home.