How bad a job is it to diy replace the main crank seal?

TheMrFailz · Post by **TheMrFailz** » 31 Oct 2018, 14:47

That oil leak finally caught up with me today and I blew one of the major seals on the front of the engine while in town today. Was losing somewhere in the ballpark of a quart a mile. Got home after stocking up on oil at the store next to me but was still not a fun trip. Assuming it's the main crank and not one of the cams, how atrocious a job is it to replace it yourself if you don't want to drop the engine? I ask because the nearest dealer is several hundred dollars in towing away and I can't pony up that kind of cash right now for the towing alone.

In addition to that, I'm definitely going to replace the belts and PCV box (wasn't plugged when I checked last but that was 6 months ago annnnnd now I'm not so sure).

In terms of tooling available, I've just got some jack stands and my toolbox (sockets / wrenches).

edit: I've seen RobertDIY's quick video on it and the actual replacement doesn't look too awful.

Post by **abscate** » 31 Oct 2018, 18:08

2002 with VVT?

Not bad with the lock tool to keep things locked up.

Where are ypu in NY in case you need moral support?

I’ll PM you my coordinates

Post by **cn90** » 31 Oct 2018, 18:10

- Replace the PCV system first to reduce the crankcase pressure. This may slow down the RMS leak quite a bit.

- Then if it is still bad, then replace the RMS, use only Volvo genuine seal.

TheMrFailz · Post by **TheMrFailz** » 31 Oct 2018, 18:22

cn90 wrote: ↑31 Oct 2018, 18:10 - Replace the PCV system first to reduce the crankcase pressure. This may slow down the RMS leak quite a bit.

- Then if it is still bad, then replace the RMS, use only Volvo genuine seal.

It's on the front side. I mighta used the wrong terminology there.

Post by **SuperHerman** » 31 Oct 2018, 18:26

If it is the front seal (oil pump) it is basically like doing a timing belt. This is on the passenger side. It can be done with jack stands.

If it is the rear main seal (driver side) that is a different and more involved.

TheMrFailz · Post by **TheMrFailz** » 31 Oct 2018, 18:29

SuperHerman wrote: ↑31 Oct 2018, 18:26 If it is the front seal (oil pump) it is basically like doing a timing belt. This is on the passenger side. It can be done with jack stands.

If it is the rear main seal (driver side) that is a different and more involved.

Oil pump side. If it was the rear it'd be a dealer trip no question.

Post by **SuperHerman** » 31 Oct 2018, 18:53

Look up timing belt replacement. You will see the offending seal once the harmonic balancer is removed (if I recall correctly you have to pull off the sprocket which is not much added work).

If you think you can manage the timing belt and abscate comes by you are home free.

Post by **precopster** » 01 Nov 2018, 05:56

If it's a turbo 2002 the seal that usually plays up is the non VVT intake side. Very easy to replace and in.some instances they can be popped back in with some carby cleaner to clean up the head and seal and 2 large flat screwdrivers.

Post by **cn90** » 01 Nov 2018, 16:50

FRONT crank seal rarely leaks before 200K miles.

Rate of oil leak (i.e. How much oil is lost per min) depends on the location. As mentioned above, the VVT seal rate of leak can be very baaaad!

TheMrFailz · Post by **TheMrFailz** » 01 Nov 2018, 17:04

cn90 wrote: ↑01 Nov 2018, 16:50 FRONT crank seal rarely leaks before 200K miles.

Rate of oil leak (i.e. How much oil is lost per min) depends on the location. As mentioned above, the VVT seal rate of leak can be very baaaad!

Well I mean I'm at a 184k so I'm not too far off from there. Wasn't able to investigate as it was pouring today and I don't think my engine bay needs to be waterlogged in addition to caked in oil but come tomorrow I'll see what's up.

edit: I was loosing about a quart a mile at 30 mph.