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2004 XC70 Broken front macpherson strut spring after being towed home.

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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XC70Rider
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Re: 2004 XC70 Broken front macpherson strut spring after being towed home.

Post by XC70Rider »

I had my AWD XC70 towed home last August. The flatbed tow truck wrapped chains somewhere on the rear end and pulled it up that way. It was 2am so I cannot recall where the chains where put.

Reason for towing is I didn't give the right rear caliper bracket enough torque. Flooding that bolt with antiseize and driving the 2 ton wagon down steep hills caused the bracket to loosen off and cracked the wheel. No damage to the tire so I got identical used wheels for $25 each and had a shop swap the tire for free.

From here on I'll manually drive her low gear while skiing down steep hills.

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Post by abscate »

So they used straps and probably wrapped around control arms.
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Post by mrbrian200 »

Strapping to the control arms is still no different than driving up a steep incline as far as the stresses on the spring are concerned. It's the same forces whether applied via a strap around the control arm or by engine power at the wheel. I've seen two coil springs break over the years on different vehicles (both Chrysler products, which is interesting). In both cases the break happened in that last loop at one end or the other at the transition between the middle of the coil and the ends that are 'flattened' to sit on the strut or upper spring seat. I would probably attribute breaks under these conditions to a problem with the steel/fabrication of the spring. Like with connecting rods even microscopic flaws/impurities in the steel can be detrimental.
Now that I know the car was towed on a flatbed, I'm doubling down on the idea that the spring would have failed, probably sooner than later, with or without the tow.

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Post by shiloh51933 »

mrbrian200 wrote: 11 Nov 2018, 08:47 Strapping to the control arms is still no different than driving up a steep incline as far as the stresses on the spring are concerned. It's the same forces whether applied via a strap around the control arm or by engine power at the wheel. I've seen two coil springs break over the years on different vehicles (both Chrysler products, which is interesting). In both cases the break happened in that last loop at one end or the other at the transition between the middle of the coil and the ends that are 'flattened' to sit on the strut or upper spring seat. I would probably attribute breaks under these conditions to a problem with the steel/fabrication of the spring. Like with connecting rods even microscopic flaws/impurities in the steel can be detrimental.
Now that I know the car was towed on a flatbed, I'm doubling down on the idea that the spring would have failed, probably sooner than later, with or without the tow.
I agree with you. Usually the spring would break where it sits inside the spring insulator, actually that's were the original from factory spring broke and same location the first replacement broke. But the spring was fine b4 tow, so there's only 1 conclusion. Riding down hill I wouldn't have straps pulling on the springs or controls arms or whatever this guy attached the straps to load and unload. He loaded my car from the rear first(because of where it was parked), so he unloaded face first. Anyway if this draws a better picture of where my mind was going. I really appreciate your input in this thread.
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Post by shiloh51933 »

20181107_183942.jpg
20181107_183952.jpg
So this is the F/R strut with a new Febi Bilstein coil spring. I figured I would try a different brand this time, Bilstein is very well known for excellent suspension parts whether factory spec or high performance. I've seen springs break but 3 broken springs from same vehicle I haven't seen. But after reading everyone's responses I'm getting the feeling that the P2 chassis V70 Cross Country should of had a heavier duty set of coil springs at all 4 corners.
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Post by mrbrian200 »

This is more for future people who may come across this conversation..

The problem with most 'heavy duty' springs, which are usually aftermarket, is that generally they're designed to facilitate a heavier cargo load. Which can be confused with the concept of longevity. They will make the car sit a little higher and not compress as much over bumps resulting in a comparatively stiff/jarring ride quality for a daily driver unless you add weight to the vehicle to compress them back down and restore the OE design ride height. However, adding weight puts you back to square one as far as stress on the springs as well as a heavier (less fuel efficient) vehicle.
I made this mistake on a Chrysler Cirrus years ago. One of the front springs broke. Thinking I never wanted to replace them again, and not really understanding what the difference designated by 'HD' was, I installed HD springs. I regretted it. I unwittingly turned a fairly decent riding cloud car into an exorcism on wheels.
Possibly on the wagons the difference isn't quite so dramatic. But I would exercise caution around the idea unless you regularly load the vehicle with a full compliment of adult passengers and/or heavy cargo.

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Post by Rattnalle »

Heavy duty springs on the rear don't do that much of a difference at least on the V70. The car is a bit stiffer but not as harsh as a lowered car. Loaded it gets pretty stiff but the alternative as I see it is the same stiffness with regular springs but then ride height is lost too.

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Post by abscate »

I put the IPD blue HDs on the back of my 1999 and love the ride with just me, I am a fat porker though.

When I tow boats it really keeps the ride good, but even unloaded I get a nice stiff Euro highest ride
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Post by shiloh51933 »

mrbrian200 wrote: 13 Nov 2018, 23:55 This is more for future people who may come across this conversation..

The problem with most 'heavy duty' springs, which are usually aftermarket, is that generally they're designed to facilitate a heavier cargo load. Which can be confused with the concept of longevity. They will make the car sit a little higher and not compress as much over bumps resulting in a comparatively stiff/jarring ride quality for a daily driver unless you add weight to the vehicle to compress them back down and restore the OE design ride height. However, adding weight puts you back to square one as far as stress on the springs as well as a heavier (less fuel efficient) vehicle.
I made this mistake on a Chrysler Cirrus years ago. One of the front springs broke. Thinking I never wanted to replace them again, and not really understanding what the difference designated by 'HD' was, I installed HD springs. I regretted it. I unwittingly turned a fairly decent riding cloud car into an exorcism on wheels.
Possibly on the wagons the difference isn't quite so dramatic. But I would exercise caution around the idea unless you regularly load the vehicle with a full compliment of adult passengers and/or heavy cargo.
Yes your correct...I should have said stronger coil springs, not taller.
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Post by shiloh51933 »

My R/R coil spring just broke, so I've replaced each front spring twice and now the R/R is getting replaced. I just purchased 2 Lesjofors from FCPEURO.COM for about $70 a piece. After researching the Lesjofors company(150 years of experience) and reading customer reviews I decided to make the purchase. FCP implied that these are the same springs that come in the blue box factory equipment. More so I relied on customer reviews/feedback. The manufacturer offers a 3 year warranty, to me that implies confidence in there products. Regardless FCPEURO.COM has a lifetime warranty.
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Present Volvo Ownership:
2008 Volvo XC90 V8 Black
2004 Volvo XC70 OEM-HID model Silver
Previously Owned Volvo:
1996 Volvo 850 GLT Silver
1998 Volvo V70XC Dark Blue
1998 Volvo V70XC Dark Blue
2000 Volvo V70XC/SE Dark Blue
2004 Volvo XC90 T6 Gold

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