[2001 V70 2.4T] Front left power window won't auto-close

[prwood]

Update: I have done the following:
- Replaced the old regulator with a new aftermarket regulator.
- Riveted new regulator in place w/Volvo spec rivets (I used the rivet order as specified in VIDA, FWIW).
- Replaced sliding blocks/u-clips with Genuine Volvo blocks/clips.
- Ran calibration procedure in VIDA.

After all of this, the window went up and down successfully in Auto and Manual modes.

HOWEVER...

After a few open/close cycles, the previous behavior has resumed - in auto-open mode, the window stops a few inches from the top and then lowers automatically. While I am still able to raise the window fully in manual mode, I do hear the sound of some strain as it reaches the top, and it does appear that the window is pushing outwards just a hair against the weatherstrip (though not to the extent that it previously was, where the window actually popped out of the weatherstrip).

I am not sure if there's still a geometry issue between the regulator, the door, and the window, or if there's an issue with the weatherstrip being aligned incorrectly, or worn out, causing increased resistance.

Any suggestions on next steps? For now it still opens and closes, but I'm concerned that if I keep using it, I'm going to crack another sliding block, bend the new regulator arms, and start the cycle over again...

[chrism]

When the arms were disconnected, did you slide the window all the way up and down in the tracks to make sure it was not binding or displaying unusual resistance anywhere along the way?

[prwood]

When the arms were disconnected, did you slide the window all the way up and down in the tracks to make sure it was not binding or displaying unusual resistance anywhere along the way?

I did try this, and it seemed okay to me, but honestly I'm not sure how much resistance to expect. It certainly wasn't as slick as skates on ice, but it also wasn't impossible to push.

This may have been ill-advised, but I did try spraying some white lithium grease down the tracks to hopefully decrease resistance. It was a bit messy of course, but when I tested last night it was sliding up and down in auto mode with no problems whatsoever. This morning, however, it was back to experiencing some resistance as it reached the top of the frame.

Two things I was thinking of:

1. Should I try gluing the loose lower section of the rubber track back into place? It's at the bottom, so I'm not sure why it would cause resistance at the top, but it's just a thought. As seen here:

2. Is it possible that, through all of the window drops, removals, etc, the tracks for the sliding blocks have shifted and are no longer properly positioned?

[oragex]

I think there is somewhere a sensor - perhaps a pressure sensor - that feels when the window has closed against the frame and stops the motor. This guy goes bad. Not sure where it is located.

[prwood]

I think there is somewhere a sensor - perhaps a pressure sensor - that feels when the window has closed against the frame and stops the motor. This guy goes bad. Not sure where it is located.

Hmm. I haven't been able to find and mention of such a sensor elsewhere, but if you do come across it, let me know.

I do think there must be some sort of obstruction. The sound of the motor changes slightly just before it reverses, like it's slowing down and encountering resistance. However, I don't know where the resistance is coming from. There are three main sources I can think of:

- The edges of the window glass against the rubber of the weatherstrip/guide channels
- The plastic sliding blocks against the metal tracks on the bottom of the window
- The regulator arms against the door frame (although I'd think I would hear a metallic sound if this was the case)

[chrism]

Have you tried recalibrating the window movement?

Resetting top window position

1. Open driver's door and locate appropriate fuse in passenger compartment fusebox (left side of dashboard). #35 is driver's side, #36 is passenger side.

2. Lower the window you want to adjust as far as it will go. (if you're re-installing and it will only go half way down, that's fine.)

3. Here's the important part and if you don't have a fuse puller, it'll be easier with someone helping you. Pull the window button up to the auto raise position and as the window is going up, pull the fuse before the window reaches the top. You must do the two actions simultaneously or this won't work.

4. Wait a minute.

5. Put the fuse back in place. Now raise the window using the auto-up position and hold it for 15 seconds. If successful, the window will then lower and rise a couple of inches. That's it.

6. Test and enjoy your newly aligned window.



Or a slight variation of the process on Youtube:

[oragex]

- The edges of the window glass against the rubber of the weatherstrip/guide channels

The outside strip can indeed tear a bit, bend, then force against the glass. I remember I had to cut a piece of mine because the glass was really rubbing against it. I would think this sensor sits inside the regulator housing itself, so you've already replaced it, it should be good.