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Oil leak at component on head

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials devoted to the second generation C70, S40 and V50 Volvos -- awkwardly model year 2004 ½ onwards -- plus where to go for advice and discussion on Volvo's sporty C30 Coupe powered by Volvo's ubiquitous inline 5-cylinder power plant.
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RSalzman
Posts: 4
Joined: 26 November 2018
Year and Model: 2005 V50
Location: USA

Oil leak at component on head

Post by RSalzman »

Hi Everyone,

My first post here.

Have a V50 (2005) that has developed an oil leak at the top of the engine, passenger side.

Think I've located the spot/component, but (embarrassingly) I don't know what this component is called.


After cleaning the whole area, I revved the engine a bit, saw through the windshield what was probably a plume of oil mist shooting up, and the only place oil had appeared after this was in the joint where this cylinder enters the head casting, where the red indicator is pointing
oil leak.jpg
oil leak.jpg (96.66 KiB) Viewed 1941 times
.



So, what is this component?


Thanks for any help..

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RickHaleParker
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Post by RickHaleParker »

Variable Valve Timing Solenoid, intake (VVT).

Solenoid, intake Part number 36002687
O-ring, upper Part number 30640846
Sealing ring, lower Part number 30612805

If it is running right just replace the rings.
As preventive maintenance, disassemble the Solenoid and clean it when you have it out.
⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.

RSalzman
Posts: 4
Joined: 26 November 2018
Year and Model: 2005 V50
Location: USA

Post by RSalzman »

Great, thanks so much for the part numbers and everything.

O-ring and sealing ring now ordered.

I really appreciate it Rick.

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RickHaleParker
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Post by RickHaleParker »

If you disassemble and clean the Solenoid, be warned: The Solenoid is plunger spring loaded, do not loose the spring and/or plunger when you remove the Snap Ring .... cup your hand around the end as you remove the Snap Ring ... Instructions:
⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.

RSalzman
Posts: 4
Joined: 26 November 2018
Year and Model: 2005 V50
Location: USA

Post by RSalzman »

Well the new sealing rings (part numbers shown earlier in thread) did not solve my oil leakage problem from the VVT solenoid.

After some more reading it seemed like things were pointing to a clogged or bad PCV system, with positive pressure building up due to a clogged PCV that would result in oil being forced out under pressure past the O-ring seal in the VVT solenoid. There was a "rubber glove test" mentioned-- remove the oil filler cap, attach a rubber glove tightly around the neck and start the engine. If the glove inflates it indicates pressure building up due to a clogged PCV system. Normal functioning was supposed to generate a slight vacuum.
Result of my glove test was a vacuum -- so suggests that pressure build up/bad PCV is not my problem.

I had done a simple test of the VVT solenoid-- supplying 12V across the terminals made the plunger move, so seemed like it was working, at least in a basic sense. (I don't know the details of how this solenoid functions to vary the valve timing).
In looking at the VVT solenoid, I noticed that the holes in the outside of the body did not line up with holes beneath the outer layer, as if the whole outer jacket were twisted out of alignment (see photos).
Are these holes supposed to be aligned? It seems like (theoretically) a misalignment could be causing a buildup of oil pressure that might result in my leak-- but that's only my theory.

Also, I have not yet disassembled the solenoid-- since the 12V test moved the plunger i decided up till now to leave well enough alone. But actually looking at the solenoid, I don't even see any obvious way of disassembling it-- the only thing that looks like a possible "wrenching point" would be the 9 dimples in the ring visible in the end view. My solenoid setup is different from the one shown in your link on cleaning-- mine goes into a bore made directly in the head casting-- no separate removable holder casting like shown in your "instructions" link. Instead it has the smooth metal cylinder/sleeve still surrounding the plunger-actuated "business end" of the device, and its not clear how to get that metal sleeve off.

Any ideas about where to go with this now?
Attachments
unaligned holes 1.jpg
unaligned 2.jpg
unaligned 3.jpg
end view.jpg

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amblerman
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Post by amblerman »

I don't know anything about these cars or that part.

However, take a look at the link that RickHaleParker pointed you to.

In step 3 (VVT solenoid: cleaning) it says:
Remove :
snap ring (1)
washer (2), spring 3, and plunger (4)

Those numbers correspond to this diagram.
diagram.png
diagram.png (83.16 KiB) Viewed 1815 times
#1 is the snap ring and I think it is visible (maybe??) in one of your pictures.
snapring.png
snapring.png (339.03 KiB) Viewed 1815 times
I'm guessing that is the snap ring only because according to the parts diagram, nothing else should be in front of the first washer.

Again, I don't know anything about these parts. Only deducing based on parts diagrams and your picture.

-A

RSalzman
Posts: 4
Joined: 26 November 2018
Year and Model: 2005 V50
Location: USA

Post by RSalzman »

I'll update this situation in the event it can help others:

1) There was nothing wrong with the VVT solenoid.
2) The oil leakage was being caused by a buildup of crankcase pressure, DESPITE the "glove test" showing a vacuum (at idle, and even when revving engine a little). It turns out that at idle, and even when revving the engine with the car standing still, there was no oil leakage, but with the engine under load, it would leak again. So the glove test can be deceptive.
3)I tried a slightly thicker O-ring from NAPA and this stopped the oil leak from the VVT solenoid (even under load), however then the oil started leaking out of one of the cam seals. That pretty much nailed down that the ultimate cause of the leakage was crankcase pressure, likely due to a clogged or faulty PCV system/oil trap.
4) While the prescribed way to fix this is to replace the whole PCV system, instead I just removed the oil dipstick and replaced it with a piece of clear tygon tubing that pushed snugly into the dipstick tube, and then bent the tube into a curve so the opening was facing downward.
5) Oil leaks immediately went to absolutely zero, even under heavy engine load. This venting of the crankcase prevented pressure buildup, which in turn prevented oil leaks.
6) Also, there has been no evidence of any oil vapor, oil film, or any evidence of oil whatsoever visible inside the tubing, so any vapor that might be coming out is so insignificant that it can't even be detected.
7) Problem solved as far as i'm concerned. Not that I have anything against doing things "the right way" when really necessary, but in this case, its not necessary.

I will however be replacing my timing belt, since it got oily during this problem (as well as replacing the tensioner, idler, and water pump, which are all recommended replaced at the same time). Due to its mileage, the car was due for a timing belt replacement anyway.

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