No start, no crank, no click. Engine ground failure.

[FireFox31]

My 2000 V70 manual is stranded with no start, no crank, and even no click when I turn the key. Though the car started one hour earlier, it now died while cranking. It cranked once, then during the second crank, I heard something clatter to a stop. Now, turning the key only turns off the headlights and some dashboard lights.

Since my starter died 16 months ago, I ran some familiar tests. The car wouldn't start using a remote start trigger between the battery and white terminal in the fuse box (with key at position 2). I measured almost 12V at the red/green power line to the starter. It didn't help to charge the battery. Every fuse looks intact and the starter relay doesn't appear melted. I even replaced the 16 month old, full price, rebuilt Volvo starter with another one, but still get no start, no crank, no click.

I think the "no click" is important. Last time my starter failed, turning the key caused a click near the windshield on the driver's side of the engine compartment. This time, I don't hear that click.

What could have "clattered to a stop" and died during a crank? What would prevent crank when the starter is getting the 12V signal over the red/green cable? What causes that click, and what would prevent it?

While testing, I noticed that the flat braided copper grounding wire from the engine to the body looks pretty corroded (like the one which broke on my original starter). Should I replace that? Does anyone know its part number?

I also found a broken aftermarket power line coming off the positive battery terminal. I believe it's for the amplifier under my passenger's seat, but I will confirm that. Maybe something shorted when that broke? Its fuse is fine.

Engine ground cable.jpg (167.34 KiB) Viewed 15587 times

Power cable 1.jpg (136.73 KiB) Viewed 15582 times

[abscate]

That could be a remote starter or alarm System of course.

I would pull the starter out and inspect the Bemdix for detritus, then benchtest it.

[dj_v70]

Did you bench test the 16 month old starter that you just removed? If so, was it bad? If not, you either aren’t getting 12v at both starter terminals or your engine ground is not getting good connection to neg battery terminal.

I would get a helper and have them turn the key to the crank position. Then use voltmeter between engine ground (not battery ground) and remote starter wire. Do you get 12v (keep key turned to crank position)? If not, check voltage between engine ground and pos battery terminal (with key still turned). If not 12v, then you have an engine ground issue. Possibly the ground strap that you consider questionable.

If ground test passes, doublecheck for 12v on both starter terminals while key is still turned. If ok, tap starter with hammer with key turned. If still nothing, remove starter and replace.

[FireFox31]

After searching the forum, I found a post which recommended using jumper cables to connect the battery negative post to a ground point on the engine. I connected the cable to the rear driver's side of the engine, what appears to be a lifting point near the upper motor mount. With that in place, the car started right up. Without it, nothing. When I connected the cable, I heard some familiar clicks from the engine.

[dj_v70]

What is a good grounding spot on the engine to connect the negative alligator clip of a jumper cable? To diagnose failed engine ground, I read that I could use jumper cables to connect the negative battery terminal to the engine ground. And when jump starting the car, I've always been instructed to connect the negative clip for the dead car to the engine ground. But what is a good spot for this?

If the starter has 12v between starter casing (engine ground) and each of the 2 starter terminals while key is in position 3, the starter will turn unless it is broken or engine is seized. If engine was seized you would have heard the click, so, that is highly unlikely.

Ideal engine ground is starter casing, but in reality any clean metal surface will work fine.

[FireFox31]

Can anyone tell me the location of each engine ground to the body or battery? An engine ground must be bad because the car started with the jumper cable between the battery negative and the engine block.

The official 2000 V70 wiring diagram page 87 shows grounding points, but it doesn't appear to identify engine grounds to the body and battery. The diagram doesn't show the two flat braided copper lines from the back rear of the engine to the engine bay walls. Searching the forum suggested that there were two grounds under the manifold, and those appear to be pictured but not numbered on the diagram.

Please share any part numbers and start/end locations for engine to body/battery ground cables. I'd like to replace them all. Thanks.

[FireFox31]

The grounding straps at the back of the engine are my problem. When I removed my center strap for measurement, it crumbled in my hands. Replacing these grounding straps is good preventative maintenance on these 20 year old cars.

The braided copper ground straps at the back of the engine are part # 948620 (thanks to my local Volvo dealership for finding this). They are no longer available from Volvo or on any parts websites. I plan to make my own replacements.

They are 12" long and 3/8" (10mm) wide and made of tinned flat braided copper. Their ends have terminals with 6mm holes for the 6mm x 12mm flange bolt in the engine and the 6mm post on the engine bay walls. This tinned braided copper wire is readily available online and (hopefully) at local electrical supply stores. I will use crimp terminals, then supplement them with solder and heat shrink tubing.

[FireFox31]

What do you all think about the ends of my negative battery terminal? They have some corrosion in the wires and rust where they connect. But they feel solid when I press on them. Are these bad enough for me to proactively replace the cable?

[abscate]

Remove bolt, make everything shiny metal, replace bolt

Dremel is my tool of choice for this

[FireFox31]

But are the cable ends too corroded, thus needing replacement?