Chassis Battery affecting Cruise Control

firestarterpro · Post by **firestarterpro** » 19 Dec 2018, 14:09

I have an amazing

Post by **FlyingVolvo** » 19 Dec 2018, 14:54

firestarterpro wrote: ↑19 Dec 2018, 14:09 I have an amazing

Go on...?

I'm not missing something right?

Post by **ZionXIX** » 19 Dec 2018, 16:44

I'm invested now

Post by **FireFox31** » 19 Dec 2018, 17:39

"Despite the negative press cruzcntrl..."

Post by **abscate** » 19 Dec 2018, 18:27

FAcebook has decided to censor your posts

firestarterpro · Post by **firestarterpro** » 19 Dec 2018, 20:36

Lol.... Put my phone in my pocket mid-message and forgot about it.

I have an amazing [i think that was an auto-correct typo, but I'll go with it] additional chassis deep cycle battery (800 CCA) I installed to power rgb led accent lights I leave on 24/7.

It also powers my radio and subwoofer/amplifier independently from my main battery. I installed a breaker switch after the inline fuse, so I can quickly disconnect the chassis battery, from the main circuit, when I exit the car.

I play Christmas music all night until the battery dies... Which is around 2 am.

Im the new old-fashioned leaving christmas exactly where it was.

Each morning, when the engine is started, it takes 5 to 10 seconds for the RPM to idle at just above 1.0 RPM. After I close the circuit (connecting the 2nd battery) the RPM drops to 0.9 RPM. I believe it should be at 8.5 naturally. Which means I have problems outside of the chassis battery.

Nonetheless, an additional problem arose when going from DC to Delaware today. After leaving the cruise control on for more than an hour, i got three check engine codes in my OBD-I. The engine idled high in neutral [stick shift] at around 1.7 rpm after the code.

A-4
TPS Sensor Voltage

A-2
TPS Sensor Voltage (again)
Camshaft Sensor Signal Missing

I cleared them both, drove home without using cruise and the code didnt come back yet.

For the idle being slighty high, I think my alternator bushing needs to be replaced, which I just ordered since the car is over 200k.

It just bothers me that the idle changes when I connect the second battery.

I bought a voltage display for each battery so can monitor how much they fluctuate with changes in the circuit. (Starting, turning on the radio, connecting the 2nd battery.)

Also, im going to add the "Big 3 Ground Wires" under the hood as well as an additional one for the 2nd battery in the back.

I think, in writing it out, I may have found a solution to my problem. Nonethess, I will hit submit.

Post by **jvl** » 19 Dec 2018, 23:09

firestarterpro wrote: ↑19 Dec 2018, 20:36

It just bothers me that the idle changes when I connect the second battery.

Also, im going to add the "Big 3 Ground Wires" under the hood as well as an additional one for the 2nd battery in the back.

Don't be bothered by the changing idle: when you connected the 2nd battery, it will draw a
current (a big current when the 2nd battery is flat) which will cause the alternator to turn 'heavier', so the engine simpy has to deliver more torque to provide this energy.

Adding extra grounds might be good.
Also, check that the cable that runs from the alternator to your 2nd battery is as short and as thick as possible: less resistance in this cable will help keeping voltage drops to a minimum and help improve overall charging efficiency.
Adding a big (100 or 150 amps) fuse is never a bad idea.

Joost