1994 850 non turbo will not start

KubilayK · Post by **KubilayK** » 10 Nov 2007, 23:52

Hi all,

I have been reading this forum and I found it so helpful. Now it's my turn to ask a question. I have 1996 850 Turbo Wagon and it has a strange and the same problem going on. Last week I drove it w/o any problem and parked it. When I came back, it did not start. It cranked but no ignition. I checked battery poles and cleaned. Did not work. I tried jump start. Did not work. Same thing, cranking but no ignition. Then I left the car over there a day. I tried again next day. It was almost starting but stalled again. Then when I tried and tried, it went worse. No ignition. Even new battery did not work.

Then I tried to read codes. I bought a new code reader. Guess what. Reader did not work. I returned it. I am wondering if ODB II is available for my car or not.

My car has a battery problem historically. Two months ago, car did not start even no cranking. Then I cleaned the battery poles, it worked. Same thing happened last month. Then I played with fuses. It worked again. But not this time.

Last thing, last winter when it was cold, it was misfiring when I stopped at the red light or stop signs after driving 20-30 minutes. When I put the transmission to neutral, it was ok. I am telling you this since I have got this ignition problem when we got the first cold weather of the year! This car has an allergy to cold weather.

By the way two weeks ago, spark plugs and radiator were replaced by my mechanic.

My plan is to check:
- injectors if they are getting enough fuel
- alternator if it runs well
- Ignition coil
- then spark plugs and cables

Any help?

Thanks a lot.

Kubi

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 11 Nov 2007, 00:34

Intermittent fuel pump relay problem is my guess. See this thread:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/p ... hp?t=13053

The OBD-II should work, strange that it doesn't therefore it could be related to your problem but wouldn't be to a faulty relay. From '96 on all cars have OBD-II.

Klausc · Post by **Klausc** » 11 Nov 2007, 10:15

Welcome to the site KK. But next time, create a new post rather than piggy backing on to someone elses problem. Works better that way.

I don't like your list of things to attack because you need to start with the simplest things and work your way up from there.

If you have a charged battery and the starter does not turn over, you may have a broken iginition and need to replace the electrical portion of the ignition switch. Make sure all of the idiot lights turn on when the key is in position II. By the way, in order to use a scanner, the key has to be in the on position. And make sure the scanner is for Ford or Volvo. Some have default settings for Honda and GM.

If the engine turns over (cranks), then you need to verify that you have fuel. Listen for the fuel pump when the key goes to pos II. Turn the radio, cabin fan, and headlights off! If you do not hear the pump it may be the fuel pump relay (#103 in the fuse tray).
You could also have AMM that is dirty. Unplug it, clean off the plug and plug it back together - right next to the air cleaner.

Write back with all the details,
Klaus

KubilayK · Post by **KubilayK** » 12 Nov 2007, 18:22

If you know any specific scanner for Volvo, please tell me so that I can buy one.

Questions:
1 - What kind of sound would I expect to hear from the fuel pump?
2 - What is AMM?

Thanks for the help.

Kubi

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 12 Nov 2007, 19:56

Specific scanner? Well, besides the Volvo Scan Tool which none of us can afford, I have an Innova Equus 3100 and it reads most of the codes. I got mine on eBay for about $60. Acton makes one too that supposedly works fine.
1. A hum
2. Same as MAF....mass air flow sensor (next to the airbox, leading from the airbox to either the turbo or the thrtottle).

karageorge2 · Post by **karageorge2** » 12 Nov 2007, 21:25

KK. the first thing i would do is get the codes before you go on a wild goose chase.

One place I would investigate is the coolant temperature sensor located on the thermostat housing. First look at the connector and make sure it is clean and good contact is being made between the two plugs ( make really sure by lightly tugging on the wires). One of my plugs was deteriorated causing poor contact and subsequent misfiring and cutting off and hard restarts all from the coolant temp sensor. if your mechanic did not change the thermostat when he did the radiator you may also want to look at doing that too because if the thermostat hangs it can affect the sensor. they do sometimes hang during coolant changes. If he did change the thermostat I would then really take a close close close look at the sensor connector especially if he took it apart. On mine the lower connector had some deterioration from oil and crud that caused the metal connector probes in the plug to sink down too much, so when the top connector was plugged in it did not make full contact causing a cel to come on. what i did was push the lower wires up thru the plug and manually connected them to the upper plug ensuring a good plug then pulled them back down and connected the two plugs. That solved the sensor problem (still cost me a new one which is how i found out about the plug)

the sensor will throw a code, so really need to check the codes first. Go to autozone or advance auto they do it for free. Ask them to interpret the coides for you then post them or create a new post.

sorry for the long winded post - good luck and let us know.