Aww, shucks! Such kind words, although I haven't managed to pull the second set of back seats out of the car I wanted to install them in.E Showell wrote: ↑27 Dec 2018, 08:10 Thanks Steve -- Can't tell you how many times I've viewed Robert's video. Still can't manage a back seat removal on a wagon.
Thus, Robert and Bruno rank right up there with Thor and Odin in my book.
Bruno -- I'll be in Maplewood -- Kendall Ave. -- to pick up a new ride tomorrow.
I agree, any kind of oil that would be accessing the spark plugs, O2 sensors, or cat could cause problem. In a perfect running engine, you won't have oil in those places anyway!WhatAmIDoing wrote: ↑27 Dec 2018, 19:40 I'm just having a hard time seeing how it could cause harm. I mean, there's no way it could cause more engine wear. Then it wouldn't be good oil. Did some searching and some thinking, and maybe it might harm cats and foul O2 sensors and spark plugs, but if you're burning a lot of oil no matter what kind it is, that's going to happen. Diesel oil generally just means it contains more detergents and additives to support higher pressures and "extreme use", so a turbo'ed gas engine should love the stuff when tearing down a country road. What seems to really be the issue is that the EPA does not want gas engines burning up those additional additives (but in diesels it's okay I guess).
Oooh, sounds like fun!
Sad to say, I remix'd that video, need to post it. Faster and easy process.ZionXIX wrote: ↑10 Dec 2018, 22:23 Had a productive afternoon. Pulled my swedish car parts heater core installed 5 years ago and finally ran it through the dishwasher. Wish I did that years ago, the smell is completely gone. In addition to pulling the heater core I undid my bypass of the heater hoses and installed a new junction after discovering the old one was missing a vital piece. Holy hell that is a job I never want to do again. Everyone talks about just bypassing the junction with high quality heater hose but I'm willing to give the over engineered junction one more try. Also did the copper washer spacer mod for extra sealing pressure on the O-rings. Seems to be working well, no leaks and I finally have heat again. Before I knew the junction box was bad I had to pull the old O-rings and spacers out. The tool of the day turned out to be a paint can opener.
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Robert, I saw in another post about the washers. I had to buy a specific set of copper gasket washers and file them down to size using a dremel tool Some trial and error was involved. Still no leaks so far.
Did a lot of research on this last night (I was bored). After sifting through all the fear mongering posts by keyboard oil experts, I concluded the issue only seems to be with the phosphorus content in Rotella T6 diesel oil. Allegedly P hurts cat efficiency over time. API SN rating requires P levels be below 800ppm, but Rotella T6 5w-40 allegedly contains 1350ppm P. The Volvo manual calls for oil rated API SH or SG/CD rated. SH oil can have a max of 1400ppm P. So in my book, I thing Rotella T6 is perfectly fine in a turbo Volvo. Might pony up the $56 to have the mobil1 in my car tested by Blackstone, then get the Rotella T6 tested after 5k miles of driving just to compare the results.bmdubya1198 wrote: ↑28 Dec 2018, 08:43I agree, any kind of oil that would be accessing the spark plugs, O2 sensors, or cat could cause problem. In a perfect running engine, you won't have oil in those places anyway!WhatAmIDoing wrote: ↑27 Dec 2018, 19:40 I'm just having a hard time seeing how it could cause harm. I mean, there's no way it could cause more engine wear. Then it wouldn't be good oil. Did some searching and some thinking, and maybe it might harm cats and foul O2 sensors and spark plugs, but if you're burning a lot of oil no matter what kind it is, that's going to happen. Diesel oil generally just means it contains more detergents and additives to support higher pressures and "extreme use", so a turbo'ed gas engine should love the stuff when tearing down a country road. What seems to really be the issue is that the EPA does not want gas engines burning up those additional additives (but in diesels it's okay I guess
I may give it a go this time around on my GLT. It's due for an oil change anyway.
Screw the EPA! Lol
Good to know! That's what you need to remember though, these cars are older and have older standards for oil quality. If T6 meets the SH rating, I would be comfortable using it too.WhatAmIDoing wrote: ↑28 Dec 2018, 18:29 Did a lot of research on this last night (I was bored). After sifting through all the fear mongering posts by keyboard oil experts, I concluded the issue only seems to be with the phosphorus content in Rotella T6 diesel oil. Allegedly P hurts cat efficiency over time. API SN rating requires P levels be below 800ppm, but Rotella T6 5w-40 allegedly contains 1350ppm P. The Volvo manual calls for oil rated API SH or SG/CD rated. SH oil can have a max of 1400ppm P. So in my book, I thing Rotella T6 is perfectly fine in a turbo Volvo. Might pony up the $56 to have the mobil1 in my car tested by Blackstone, then get the Rotella T6 tested after 5k miles of driving just to compare the results.
Rotella T6 seems to go back and forth with their API S certification. Some 2018 batches have it and some don't even though the bottles are identical. Rotella T6 5w40 was API SL and SM certified at a time for a while. Also appears Shell has no intention marketing T6 for passenger car use, so they might not even bother getting T6 API S certified regularly.
The EPA gonna EPA...
