camshaft locking tool broke...... Topic is solved

Goldchemist · Post by **Goldchemist** » 26 Jan 2019, 16:08

I've read many of the posts on MVS and found so much valuable information. Which is how I've been able to get to this point in this current difficult repair job. I learned every job I've done on this forum. Thank you! Now to my problem......

(2006 Volvo S60 2.5T AWD)

My goal is to replace my camshaft seals. I purchased a camshaft locking tool. Removed the covers off the back of the cams, attached the camshaft locking tool. Surprisingly it went on perfectly. Is that strange? Locking tool attached, I move to the front of the engine. I have the timing gear locking tool as well. Inserted in between the sprockets. I removed the timing belt at this point. I inserted the T55 into the intake hub and using a medium size pipe I applied CCW pressure to turn the bolt. (already removed the tiny hub cap from the center of the hub) As I'm pushing I hear a 'pop'. I think, hey I just loosened the bolt, that wasn't so bad. I may have given it two more small turns, not full turns. I checked the locking tool, all was good. Then I move to the exhaust hub. I apply CCW pressure and 'pop' again, I go look at the camshaft locking tool and the 'tabs' that actually lock the cams in place are cracked off! The cams moved, it looks like very very slightly in the CW direction looking at the back of the cams.

My plan is to put the timing belt back on. Tighten up the T55's on both hubs, then remove the locking tool, then try to turn the engine over using the crankshaft and line it back up again. Am I screwed? My thinking is that the cams barely moved backwards, only about 5mm. I've tried to figure this out on the forum but just can't find this specific situation. Of course I'm sick thinking maybe my engine is toast, thats what a buddy of mine told me.

Thanks for reading.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Post by **cn90** » 26 Jan 2019, 16:10

Do have pics of the broken tool?

Where do you buy it from? The cam locking tools on ebay are actually very good, unless you got the "counterfeit" stuff...

No, you are not screwed.

Post by **cn90** » 26 Jan 2019, 16:19

Interesting you mentioned the broken tabs, I did the search on amazon review and see that people broke the tabs all the time!

https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Camshaft-Cra ... filter-bar

- Some home-made ideas are here:
viewtopic.php?t=5429

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 27 Jan 2019, 07:10

Did you use a pulley holding tool to steady the hub and camshaft when you went to break loose the T55?

I suggest you get a pulley holding tool on the cam/hub so your have some mechanical advantage then try to move the cam back into position.

Keep in mind it took a sufficient amount of torque to get the cam out of position and you used a lever to do so. It is reasonable to expect a sufficient amount of torque to get it back into position.

What does a Gold chemist do? My understanding is Gold is a noble metal and is unreactive. How can one do chemistry with no reactivity?

Goldchemist · Post by **Goldchemist** » 27 Jan 2019, 11:47

thanks for the replies. will try to answer all questions. no pic yet because the tool is still attached to the back of the cams. the little tabs that insert into the cam slots broke off allowing the cams to turn slightly. i guess i could manage a picture tonight, up close to the tool. i bought it on ebay. i bought a whole cam alignment set for about $56. basically being cheap. i’m not always cheap but when i am i usually pay the price. haha. i guess i bought a counterfeit one. i do have the pully holding tool inserted between the two hub pulleys. i was overly cautious here. i was a chemist at a company that had the word Gold in the name soooo i just made up my username at that time. back in the middle ages i bet there were a lot of ‘gold chemists’.

based on everyone’s advice it sounds like i can try to turn the engine over using the crankshaft. first i will try turning the two hub bolts and see if i can get the cams to turn back slightly.

and i will purchase the $110 cam locking tool before i try again.

thank you very much for the advice. i feel a little better now.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 27 Jan 2019, 13:01

Goldchemist wrote: ↑27 Jan 2019, 11:47 i was a chemist at a company that had the word Gold in the name soooo i just made up my username at that time. back in the middle ages i bet there were a lot of ‘gold chemists’.

I was wondering if you was one of them guys that freebased Mercury

I'll wait for the picture of the tools that you used.

Post by **jonesg** » 28 Jan 2019, 14:01

Goldchemist wrote: ↑27 Jan 2019, 11:47 thanks for the replies. will try to answer all questions. no pic yet because the tool is still attached to the back of the cams. the little tabs that insert into the cam slots broke off allowing the cams to turn slightly. i guess i could manage a picture tonight, up close to the tool. i bought it on ebay. i bought a whole cam alignment set for about $56. basically being cheap. i’m not always cheap but when i am i usually pay the price. haha. i guess i bought a counterfeit one. i do have the pully holding tool inserted between the two hub pulleys. i was overly cautious here. i was a chemist at a company that had the word Gold in the name soooo i just made up my username at that time. back in the middle ages i bet there were a lot of ‘gold chemists’.

based on everyone’s advice it sounds like i can try to turn the engine over using the crankshaft. first i will try turning the two hub bolts and see if i can get the cams to turn back slightly.

and i will purchase the $110 cam locking tool before i try again.

thank you very much for the advice. i feel a little better now.

Fcp and ipd sell the better version for $130.

Goldchemist · Post by **Goldchemist** » 29 Jan 2019, 20:25

: Broken Locking Tool 1.jpg (59.73 KiB) Viewed 2668 times

Hey guys, so I purchased the new camshaft locking tool from FCP Euro for $107 and let me tell you, at first glance it looks and feels 1,000 times better than the cheapo model I bought on eBay for $56 (which included the rest of the camshaft alignment set.). Anyway, so far looks to be well worth it.

I put the timing belt back on, removed the timing pully holding tool, then removed the broken camshaft locking tool. I adjusted the cams very slightly back to where they were originally. Then I started to crank the engine over using the crankshaft. She is turning very smoothly. I'm thinking that means that everything is still in time. Now, I'm trying to line everything up again by looking for the marks on the crankshaft gear and the oil pump but I can't see any marks on the crankshaft gear teeth like in all the pictures! The posts make it sound easy, but its very difficult for me to see. It looks like all the teeth are 'grooved'. Anyway, is it safe to say that everything is in time if I can turn the engine over numerous times, very smoothly?

One problem, the back of the cams isn't lining up perfectly. When I try to install the new locking tool the slots on the cams just won't line up.

Can I use the locking tool to coax them to line up? can I turn the cams slightly individually to line them up? I see a bunch of posts called 'similar topics' that I will check out. I hadn't seen these before, still kind of new here, I don't post as much as some. Thanks again for all the help. I will try to attach some pics of the broken tool.

Goldchemist · Post by **Goldchemist** » 29 Jan 2019, 20:55

Okay, so now that I've been working on this front camshaft seal replacement job for a few days I'm starting to understand the CVVT Hub Setting guide posted by F250 in 2016. It says use the cam locking tool for any minor adjustments. Thats my situation right there. And now I see in one of the pictures that the marks on the crank timing gear are actually tiny notches towards the oil pump side. I've been staring at the teeth of the gear looking for long grooves. Thanks!!

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 30 Jan 2019, 09:25

Oh shoot! I was waiting for a picture of your "pulley holding tool" because the way you describe it's usage, it sound like it is a universal front cam lock tool, not a pulley holding tool.

I'm thinking the universal front cam lock tool gave away. Which is to be expected, cam locks are not designed to withstand much torque. That why I ask if you used a pulley holding tool.

A pulley holding tool is a long lever used to counter the torque. Counterhold is another name that can be used for a pulley holding tool.

I have one of them cost effective Volvo Engine Alignment kits off eBay also. I have never broken it. I always use a Counterhold when breaking loose or torquing.