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Sheared water pump bolt

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
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abscate  
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Re: Sheared water pump bolt

Post by abscate »

I think I would go with a bolt defect for this one. That bolt would not shear at 30 or even 60 foot pounds - I think it would strip the engine case first, too.
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Post by callahanoffroad »

abscate wrote: 11 Feb 2019, 07:48 I think I would go with a bolt defect for this one. That bolt would not shear at 30 or even 60 foot pounds - I think it would strip the engine case first, too.
That's exactly what I thought.
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Post by callahanoffroad »

Oh look I missed part of the gasket! Oops?
Oh look I missed part of the gasket! Oops?
So leak was caused by a small amount of old gasket remaining... Looks like I should be able to get that broken bolt out too.
Author, Chef, and Shade Tree Mechanic

1995 Volvo 850, Non-Turbo, VVIS, LH FI, Green, 215,000 miles. B5254FS engine. Herman. viewtopic.php?f=1&t=84393

1996 Volvo 850, died at 280,000

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Post by cn90 »

- Clean the mating surface with fine sand paper really well before installation.

- I add a bit of grease on the gasket (Volvo gasket only) to help hold it in place during installation.
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Post by callahanoffroad »

Well.

So far so good.

Got the entire project completed. Didn't need as much coolant as I thought it would.

So far no leaking.

Took it for a 30 min drive, and still no leaks.

So I'm going to say it's "holding" hahahaha.

It's crazy how much different new bearings and belts sound in the engine bay.

So, my idle is a little different now. Sounds a bit like a Subaru. Is that normal?
Author, Chef, and Shade Tree Mechanic

1995 Volvo 850, Non-Turbo, VVIS, LH FI, Green, 215,000 miles. B5254FS engine. Herman. viewtopic.php?f=1&t=84393

1996 Volvo 850, died at 280,000

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Read my Silly Comic Book at: therealpizzabros.com/

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Post by oragex »

Subaru sound sounds like an ignition coil issue/misfire, or a timing issue. www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDwtZCWU7u8

Timing marks check fine? Brands used?

Just looking a little back at the snapped bolt, there is one reason for snapping that wasn't mentioned but that really kills a bolt very easily: an accidental smear of grease on threads - even just a slight amount from a dirty finger and it will lower the actual torque measure by a factor of 2 or 3 which would cause even a larger bolt to snap with very little effort at the handle. Perhaps little chance there was grease for a pump job, but worth being careful when handling bolts. Usually when unsure I like to clean my bolts with some acetone or even some Liquid Wrench (I believe it doesn't have lubricant in it, I hope I'm not wrong)

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Post by tardcart »

if you are able to get in there to drill, get a reverse pitch drill 1/8 and run the drill in reverse. center punch and often the biting of the drill walks the bolt out(better than further in) Besides snap-on Im not sure if avail. at Home Depot etc. or not.

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Post by ZionXIX »

I found that #0000 fine steel wool worked really well for me in removing the last bits of stubborn gasket material.
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Post by callahanoffroad »

oragex wrote: 12 Feb 2019, 01:46 Subaru sound sounds like an ignition coil issue/misfire, or a timing issue. www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDwtZCWU7u8

Timing marks check fine? Brands used?

Just looking a little back at the snapped bolt, there is one reason for snapping that wasn't mentioned but that really kills a bolt very easily: an accidental smear of grease on threads - even just a slight amount from a dirty finger and it will lower the actual torque measure by a factor of 2 or 3 which would cause even a larger bolt to snap with very little effort at the handle. Perhaps little chance there was grease for a pump job, but worth being careful when handling bolts. Usually when unsure I like to clean my bolts with some acetone or even some Liquid Wrench (I believe it doesn't have lubricant in it, I hope I'm not wrong)
My timing marks were virtually gone so I had to make new marks to make sure that nothing moved. Looks like nothing moved mechanically. I'm actually pretty sure its going to be spark plugs. Its been about 30-40k miles since the last change. Also it was idling a little rough before the water pump and timing belt repair. Distributor, and wires were replaced at the same time. New coil pack about 10,000 miles ago. I was listening and it sounds like there is a small misfire. So new plugs first and then we'll go from there.

All the brands I used were from FCP euro's kit: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 252wp-oega

Funny thing, that aisin pump is most definitely a volvo pump with the word volvo ground off. I trust aisin, they make good products.

I think liquid wrench has a oss between teflon and ceramic in it to make it easier to pull bolts off. :lol:

Honestly I think I got a bad bolt. It happens.

I replaced the aisin/volvo waterpump gasket with a fel-pro one and it was actually a little thicker and sturder.
Author, Chef, and Shade Tree Mechanic

1995 Volvo 850, Non-Turbo, VVIS, LH FI, Green, 215,000 miles. B5254FS engine. Herman. viewtopic.php?f=1&t=84393

1996 Volvo 850, died at 280,000

Founder of: CookingForChemo.Org

Read my Silly Comic Book at: therealpizzabros.com/

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Post by oragex »

Aisin makes them for Volvo then sells them as well on the side just 'erasing' the traces indeed. Happens with pretty much all parts when being sold by the actually manufacturer under their own brand. Makes one realize by the same the profit margin Volvo makes on their parts stamped 'Volvo'. Not blaming, I think they have no choice but to sell their cars for less (because of the competition) and try to make the actual profits from parts/repairs.

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