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2013A XC90 - Cooling System Service Topic is solved

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo XC90s. The XC90 proved to be very popular, and very good for Volvo's sales numbers, since its introduction in model year 2003 (North America).
xHeart
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Re: 2013A XC90 - Cooling System Service

Post by xHeart » Mon Nov 12, 2018 4:45 pm

The electrical connection to throttle body was not listed in VIDA2014D instruction "remove intake manifold". So finding it and then way to disconnect added to delays. The purge valve hose cleared the alternator after rotating intake clockwise while pulling it upward. It will be easier if the t-stat coolant hose connection at radiator was off.
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Re: 2013A XC90 - Cooling System Service

Post by xHeart » Tue Nov 13, 2018 11:51 am

New hose to oil cooler and thermostat installed:
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Re: 2013A XC90 - Cooling System Service

Post by xHeart » Wed Nov 14, 2018 1:57 pm

The new Volvo coolant color is a lot translucent then previous. The jug is 1 gallon (3.78 liter). I'll mix 2 liter coolant with 1.78 liter of distilled water (approx 55:45 ratio). 2 concentrated jugs will make 16 quarts for an initial fill of 11 quarts.

Even after the drain, there was some old coolant in the block and heater core. What is the best way drain out old coolant before filling with the new Volvo coolant?

The monitor/refill tube installed at the intake.
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Re: 2013A XC90 - Cooling System Service

Post by June » Wed Nov 14, 2018 3:36 pm

xHeart wrote: ↑
Wed Nov 14, 2018 1:57 pm
The new Volvo coolant color is a lot translucent then previous. The jug is 1 gallon (3.78 liter). I'll mix 2 liter coolant with 1.78 liter of distilled water (approx 55:45 ratio). 2 concentrated jugs will make 16 quarts for an initial fill of 11 quarts.

Even after the drain, there was some old coolant in the block and heater core. What is the best way drain out old coolant before filling with the new Volvo coolant?

The monitor/refill tube installed at the intake.
This is what I have seen Mike do when replacing coolant.

Disconnect the upper hose from the radiator and insert the end of the garden hose. Then he tightened the hose clamp effectively sealing the end of the garden hose into the upper radiator hose. Than turn on the water which back flushes the system. He does not remove the thermostat as the water pressure opens it allowing water to back flush the system. Once the water comes out clear he runs the engine briefly during the process to ensure the heater core is flushed and any loose particulates. Once all is clear he drains the water and refills the coolant.

I can't tell you how many times I have seen him do that process over the years. He says before flushing machines, shops had a water gun that used compressed air to back flush cooling systems from the upper radiator hose.

Hope this helps, June


My Volvo cars owned
1989 740 GLT ordered
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1996 960 ordered
1998 S90 ordered totalled after 3 weeks
1998 V70 GT dealer stock car
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Re: 2013A XC90 - Cooling System Service

Post by xHeart » Thu Nov 15, 2018 10:36 am

Switched from the old Volvo coolant to new Volvo coolant after installing new radiator, thermostat, hoses, o'rings etc..
Supplies:
- Volvo Coolant PN: 31439821 x 2 @17.85 ea. (made 55:45 mix/ 16 quarts)
- 4 x 1 Gallon Distilled Water @ $0.68 ea.

Here are my steps after everything was connected:
assuming there was some old coolant in the block
  • filled the expansion tank with 4+ quarts of distilled water to flush and rinse off old, added more to keep level as it self burps
  • ran the engine, added more distilled water to keep the level, once stable, ran the heater and blower fan at max
  • once engine temp reached WARM shut off
  • cool down and drained at the radiator petcock - 4+ quarts came out as normal
  • REPEAT ABOVE IF YOU'RE CHANGING COOLANT MAKE
Initial Fill:
  • connected translucent tube at nipple
  • added 4+ quart 55:45 mix, let the coolant level settle in the expansion tank
  • began adding 4 more quarts while monitoring the tube at the nipple -- the distilled water/old coolant mix appeared in the tube -- allowed the visible bubbles in the tube to escape and fluid to settle in the tube
  • connected a pump with longer hoses to the tube
  • now continued filling expansion tank with 55:45 mix to max
  • ran the pump and siphoned off close to 2 quarts. At this point new turquoise color coolant filled the tube/hose connected to the nipple and pump
  • checked for any leaks everywhere. Prepared to catch any spill and disconnected pump and hose
  • disconnected tube at the nipple, catch spill, and reconnected expansion tank hose back for normal operation
  • close to 9 quarts of new coolant is in the system at this point
2nd Fill:
  • filled the expansion tank to max with 55:45 mix
  • ran the engine, add 55:45 mix to keep the level, once stable, ran the heater and blower fan at max. once engine warmed up shut off engine
  • cool down and drained at the radiator petcock - 4+ quarts of new coolant came out
  • added 55:45 mix to keep the level, once stable, ran the heater and blower fan at max
  • turned off the engine and cool off
Next, I'll run a coolant test.


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Past: German Shepherd | 1989 Volvo 740 GL | 1979 Volvo 240

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Re: 2013A XC90 - Cooling System Service  Topic is solved

Post by xHeart » Sat Nov 17, 2018 6:11 pm

A $2 anti-freeze fluid tester reads the fluid sample from expansion tank good for -20F and 226F.
Thank you!


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Re: 2013A XC90 - Cooling System Service

Post by pgill » Mon Feb 11, 2019 9:15 am

Jimmy wrote the following with respect to the intake manifold seals
jimmy57 wrote: ↑
Mon Nov 05, 2018 1:03 pm
Those are re-useable unless you have some reason the think the engine is sludgy. The crankcase vent oil on a sludged engine ends up getting in the gap between head and manifold and settle onto the intake seals and they get hard. Otherwise you'll find them pliable and they will work again. When you get the manifold off you'll find those intake seals are basically green rubber bands in grooves in plastic intake. The edge sticks out 1/16 inch and compresses when you bolt up intake. They do not look like they'd work but the engines that use them don't have issues with intake leaks. Plastic intakes are not rigid enough to compress regular flat composite gaskets. They do get hard with age but that seems to be 10 years or so.
For my 2008 LR2 that I've owned since new the seals were very soft and pliable (Synthetic motor oil only since new, I bought the oil and brought it to the dealership when the servicing was free, I did not use the dealer supplied oil)

For my 2010 S80 that I purchased recently, the seals were not as soft and they had a sticky residue.

I haven't replaced the PCV diaphragm on my S80 perhaps its time.

Jimmy as always you are a wealth of knowledge.

I really appreciate you sharing this information.

For everyone else that reads this post the green seals (you will need 6) are available aftermarket. I just bought 6 and they are excellent quality, made in Germany by a company called Victor Reinz. I found them on close out sale and they were very inexpensive.

Take care

Paul



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Re: 2013A XC90 - Cooling System Service

Post by xHeart » Mon Feb 11, 2019 11:23 am

Jimmy57, YOU ROCK!

I reused the green seal per Jimmy's input. When pulling away the inlet manifold few green seals stayed on the block surface due to the build up. Collected all 6 green rings, used brake clean to remove stickiness. Seating these seals back on to IM is simple since there's a track for each with protrusion (bump) -- to hold it in place while mating IM with block.

I used in-lb measure for torque.

Delayed on my belt/pulley/tensioner project due to VIDA/DiCE communication tools error.


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Re: 2013A XC90 - Cooling System Service

Post by abscate » Sun Feb 17, 2019 7:02 pm

I've always flushed by just popping out the radiator stopcock, and running water out of the bottom f the radiator while bleeding in an overflow into the tank with a hose, engine idling. I run like this for 30 minutes, supervising this the whole time. Secure hose with string, but don't walk away to admire that Florida gal whipping by in that S80, stay on task.

Shut motor off, shut hose off, let water drain out of radiator, replace stop cock. One gallon of coolant and about liter of makeup water (to add to the three liters in the engine that’s remain) will make the correct mix on a V70, scale to an XC90, of course

Edited to add to confusion


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Re: 2013A XC90 - Cooling System Service

Post by pgill » Mon Feb 18, 2019 10:41 am

Abscate,

If it were me I would use more water in your coolant mixture

1 Gallon = 3.78 Liters

1 Liter (water) + 3.78 Liters (coolant) = 4.78 Liters total

Coolant% 3.78 / 4.78 = 79%

Some things to note:

1 - coolant (ethylene glycol) freezing point 8 F

2 - water freezing point 32 F

3 - 65% coolant 35% water freezing point -60 F (this is the minimum)


As you move away from 65%/35% the freezing point gets higher

The water is better at removing the heat than the coolant so it is better to stay on the water side of the minimum (35% water or more)

For me I am using 50%/50% - but it only drops below 32 F a few days a year and it never gets below zero, not even close

Here in California in the summer it does get to 100 F occasionally.

I did grow up in upstate NY and I used a more coolant and less water there (see below for recommendation)



My recommendation

Coolant/Water

45/55 - if you live in Las Vegas (Never snows)

50/50 - if you live in Atlanta (Cold but rarely snows)

57/43 - if you live in Maine (Snow yes, -40 F almost never)

67/33 - if you live in Alaska (Snow yes, -40 F possible, if frequent then bury vehicle in snow for warmth)


To get the mixture shown above

45/55 - 4 Liters Coolant to 5 Liters of water (Approximate Freeze Point at -22 F)

50/50 - equal amounts of coolant an water (Approximate Freeze Point at -32 F)

57/43 - 4 Liters Coolant to 3 Liters of water (Approximate Freeze Point at -52 F)

67/33 - 4 Liters Coolant to 2 Liter of water (Approximate Freeze Point at -60 F)


A good link that explains why you don't want to just use coolant

https://hellafunctional.com/?p=629

Take care

Paul



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