2001 V70 2.4T Long crank after sitting, fuel odor, underside of fuel tank damp Topic is solved

[dlundblad]

The rings had to be so tight I thought I was going to break something.

Has anyone lubed the rings with a silicone grease prior to installation?

[abscate]

No, but Volvo does with petroleum jelly, aka Vaseline.

Silicone grease probably fine

Note the info on getting the pump indexed to the marks

[prwood]

The rings had to be so tight I thought I was going to break something.

Did you use the lock ring tool or something else?

[prwood]

Peter

Watch out for the routing of the pipes it he tank. It is easy to kink something and then you get a horrible intermittent fuel delivery problem like shockwave did on th e XC90 forum

VIDA is saying that if I'm not replacing the fuel tank, I can use a wire to fish the cable back and forth, so hopefully that will make things easier:

Removing the left hand level sensor, with note about using wire:

Removing Left Hand Level Sensor.png (153.53 KiB) Viewed 2066 times

Removing right hand pump/level sensor:

Removing Right Hand Level Sensor and Pump.png (112.8 KiB) Viewed 2066 times

Installing right hand pump and level sensor:

Installing Right Hand Level Sensor and Pump and Left Hand Level Sensor.png (103.91 KiB) Viewed 2066 times

How to route the cable IF you are also replacing the fuel tank at the same time:

Cable Routing When Replacing Fuel Tank.png (227.87 KiB) Viewed 2066 times

[dlundblad]

The rings had to be so tight I thought I was going to break something.

Did you use the lock ring tool or something else?

Used the tool with a breaker bar.

[prwood]

The rings had to be so tight I thought I was going to break something.

Did you use the lock ring tool or something else?

Used the tool with a breaker bar.

Do you think this one would work? It's $30, which still seems a bit much, but is $20 less:

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63000-Fuel ... B0079GPYA4

It's "universal", and would allow for only two points of contact, but it looks like several people were able to use it on Volvos:

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63000-Fuel ... word=volvo

[prwood]

Or this, only $20:

OEMTOOLS 25156 Fuel Pump Module Spanner Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FDL3BS/re ... ACb4QA1K6R

[dlundblad]

It doesn't look like it

I ended up using the special Volvo fuel pump tool. Amazon has it for $40. *It doesn't look like FCP has the one I purchased now. They have a few similar models, but they won't fit my 02.

[prwood]

I installed the new pump on 2/23. Things seem good so far. Here are my detailed notes:

Parts and tools used:
* Bosch Fuel Pump: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 0-30761743
* 2 x Genuine Volvo O-Rings: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... nk-9183708
* CTA Fuel Tank lock ring wrench: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 0-cta-2493
* Nylon fish tape (used w/zip ties to fish fuel pump umbilical from side to side): https://www.harborfreight.com/50-ft-nyl ... 66505.html

Procedure:
1. Depressurized fuel system per VIDA (start engine, remove fuel pump fuse, let run until engine stops (20-30 seconds), turn over engine a couple more times.
2. Disconnected battery negative terminal.
3. Removed rear seat cushions, side cushions, disconnected SRS cables from back rests.
4. Removed two bolts on hinges for back rests. Removed three captive bolts for seat belt ends. Removed back rests (right side/60% first, then left side/40%). The 60% back rest is HEAVY.
5. Removed remaining large bolt and two nuts holding seat supports in.
6. Removed foam insulation covering both fuel tank units.
7. Removed metal covers over fuel tank units.
8. Vacuumed out area underneath both covers around locking rings.
9. Removed both locking rings using locking ring wrench. Removed old o-rings from under locking rings. Used pick to clean dirt out of o-ring grooves. I used a breaker bar as recommended, but in my case I think it could have been done with a standard ratchet; minimal effort was required.
10. Disconnected cables for left side level sensor, pulled unit up, attached zip tie and fish tape to ejector, then pulled fuel level unit off ejector and removed. Cleaned and inspected. Seemed to be in good shape.
11. Completely removed old right side fuel pump, with umbilical from left side still attached to fish tape. Looked ok, obviously there was a fissure in the plastic, but it was too small to see.
12. Cleaned threads on locking rings and on fuel tank with pick.
13. Lubricated lock rings and new o-rings with petroleum jelly as per VIDA spec.
14. Installed new fuel pump and fished umbilical back to left side with fish tape.
15. Reconnected left side level sensor and reinstalled.
16. Torqued locking rings down (see notes below).
17. Reconnected SRS connectors from back rests, reconnected battery, started engine and checked for leaks.
18. Success!
19. Put everything else back together.

Results:
- Started up with no long crank and no leaking visible from fuel pump. No fuel smell.
- Filled tank up from 1/8 to 8/8 full after installation. No fuel smell or leaks. Fuel level gauge on dash went up to full.
- ~70 miles driven so far and no signs of fuel smell, leaks, or dampness under car.

Observations:

Re: Locking rings
a. VIDA calls for the locking rings to be torqued to 60 Nm. I was ONLY able to achieve this when torquing the ring on the right side fuel pump unit. This was possible because there was enough molding for me to grip on top of the pump to counter-hold it while tightening down the ring.
b. On the locking ring for the left hand level sensor unit, I was NOT able to reach 60 Nm torque. The cover started turning out of position probably around 50 Nm. I made sure the cover was clean and that there was plenty of petroleum jelly on any surfaces where the locking ring and cover came into contact. There just isn't much to grip onto the cover on that side to counter-hold it. There's a thin ridge where the wires emerge, and even with my father-in-law using a chisel to counter-hold against it, the cover still started turning before I had torqued the locking ring to 60 Nm. So I'd estimate it's torqued down to somewhere between 50-55 Nm. It *seems* plenty tight, and I didn't notice any leakage or fuel smell emerging once we tightened it down.
c. Trying to counter-hold the tank units while tightening the lock rings with the special wrench is a PITA, since anything you put in place to hold down the unit (finger, hand, chisel, etc) blocks the wrench from turning after 180 degrees of rotation, at most.

Re: Other
a. One thing none of the instructions/videos seem to mention (though I suppose it should be obvious when looking at the parts) is that the units on both the left and right side are spring loaded (the pump with leaf springs and the fuel level unit with a coil spring), and will not seat on their own until the locking ring is tightened down. I was initially concerned that the pump was not installed correctly at first, because it wouldn't seat completely down. After re-watching one video, I noticed that they had the same situation and basically just tightened the lock ring down to compress it. I am assuming the springs are there to ensure that the units stay in place regardless of any movement, expansion or contraction, of the fuel tank.
b. If possible, drain your fuel tank completely before doing this procedure. I had run mine down to 1/8 tank before doing it, and there was still enough fuel to make things a bit messy and create a potential hazard.*

*Bonus points if you read this far: Here's video of a demonstration the kids and I attended at Worcester Polytechnic Institute's Fire Protection Engineering department open house... igniting a pan of gasoline using a blowtorch in contact with fuel vapor (about 1 foot above the liquid fuel):

https://photos.app.goo.gl/PNeaLWRoNoB3AjJ17

[abscate]

Awesome rewrite up, added fuel pump part number to title for search, and do you want the honors of checking the green box?

Volvo horns to this guy !