No spark after distributor

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 21 Feb 2019, 20:14

What happen is: When it was installed, the narrow key went into the wide slot on the cam. Somebody tighten it down and bent over the wide key which will not go into the narrow slot on the cam. When installing these one need to make sure it goes in and flat before one bolts it down.

Try prying up the bent one. If you break it off it can still be used, just make sure the narrow key gets in the narrow slot on the cam.

Rubenrodri126 · Post by **Rubenrodri126** » 21 Feb 2019, 22:13

Ok so got fix the problem with the tap but still no park at the coil or distributor

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 21 Feb 2019, 22:33

Take a Computer Safe Logic Probe and trouble shoot the DI Power Stage.

Commands to fire will show up as pluses on the DI Power Stage when the engine is cranking.

Full HD pictures, click to zoom.

Rubenrodri126 · Post by **Rubenrodri126** » 21 Feb 2019, 22:40

How can i do that i have the probe but what should i do try every cable? That looks complicated

Post by **erikv11** » 21 Feb 2019, 23:57

I'd finish checking out the bracket/plate issue. Much more likely the no spark is still related to that, than to an unrelated second problem (like the coil or power stage).

- are you sure the black circular pate is in the correct orientation now?
- was the cam sensor damaged from the plate being in wrong? if you are not sure, post up some photos clearly showing the inside of the cam sensor, I can't see much from the other pic.
- did you also check the plate on the back of the intake cam? Less likely to get screwed up but it happens.

Rubenrodri126 · Post by **Rubenrodri126** » 22 Feb 2019, 00:09

It's alive! Apparently what's the black plate behind the cam sensor after I put it on the right way I check for voltage with the probe from the positive to the 2 little nuts got to go on the coil and it start right up thank you guys

Rubenrodri126 · Post by **Rubenrodri126** » 22 Feb 2019, 00:10

Also I need to buy a new cam sensor cuz the one I have I figure it out somebody cut it and put it back again with black tape and when the cables are too close it doesn't want to start I don't know who did that but definitely it was the black little plate thank you

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 22 Feb 2019, 06:12

Rubenrodri126 wrote: ↑21 Feb 2019, 22:40 How can i do that i have the probe but what should i do try every cable? That looks complicated

If you do this make sure you using a Computer Safe Logic Probe.
The old type with a incandescent bulb can over load the ECM and blow out a port.

Moving from left to right on the DI Power stage:
Yellow/White is the power to the DI power stage, this should be a steady positive voltage.
Blue/Red is the signal from the ECM, not sure if it is + or - but it should pulse as you crank the engine.
Black is the ground for DI Power stage, it should be a steady negative.
Blue is the ground for the coil primary windings, it should be a pulsing negative as you crank over the engine.
Red is the positive for the coil, It should be a steady positive voltage.

Post by **erikv11** » 22 Feb 2019, 08:16

Rubenrodri126 wrote: ↑22 Feb 2019, 00:10 Also I need to buy a new cam sensor cuz the one I have I figure it out somebody cut it and put it back again with black tape and when the cables are too close it doesn't want to start I don't know who did that but definitely it was the black little plate thank you

A junkyard cam sensor is much, much cheaper than a new one, no problem going that route as long as it is Bosch. 94-98 all the same. I only bought a new one once, for the car that lives with my kid 200 miles away.

Rubenrodri126 · Post by **Rubenrodri126** » 22 Feb 2019, 14:29

I open another topic cause it went from not having spark to overheating

help jajajja it looks like this will never end

No spark after distributor

Re: No spark after distributor