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Haldex Oil Change

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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XC70Rider
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Re: Haldex Oil Change

Post by XC70Rider »

Doing more searching it appears the oil pump can be removed from a Haldex 3 after just popping off the propeller shaft cup (flange). The cup needs to be counter held when using an air impact to get it off the shaft.

It wasn't too difficult. You don't need the counter hold for the prop shaft. It's held in place by the transmission. That means to rotate it, all 4 wheels have to be off the ground to get at all the bolts. For taking the cup off, you need a counter hold. I used 2 scrap bolts and a pry bar to hold it. Then a 2/3 air wrench to get it out past the exhaust and prop shaft. A 1/2 inch was too big to fit. 21mm nut if I remember right. Putting it back on is difficult. The torque spec is really high, so you really need 2 people to get it right. One to hold the counter, one to turn the wrench. And it's a short nut, don't round it off!

My guess he meant 3/8" wrench. I only have a 1/2" air wrench but I can adapt it to 3/8". You'll need black high impact adapters or they'll break.

XC70Rider
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Post by XC70Rider »

vtl wrote: 27 Mar 2019, 11:15 Rear of the flange has 2 extra holes with threads, use M8 bolts to push the flange out. If the threads are rusted out you may have luck with a cold chisel and hammer on the CV joint itself. One more way is to unbolt the front CV and the support bearing and use the driveshaft itself as a reverse hammer (be ready to replace CV joint).
Thank for info vtl. I'll be raising her up tomorrow to give it shot.

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Post by vtl »

I removed and reinstalled many Haldex flanges using a regular electric 8A impact wrench, counter-holding the flange by just bare hand. Yes, you want to saw off your impact socket a bit to make it flush with the low profile bolt, otherwise almost any impact wrench can easily do this job.

Clean thoroughly all the mating surfaces, blow with air, lightly coat with grease - that will make it possible to remove it less painfully the next time.

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Antoine240bk
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Post by Antoine240bk »

I removed the center bearing, while pushing with the M8 bolt at the back of the Flange, pull down the propeller shaft at the cross brace. I used only one M8 x 30mm bolt to push the Cv joint out that way.

1/2 wrench with an extender and a 24mm socket worked, but i had a counter-hold tool, and then an extractor tool.
The screw torque spec is quite hight 180Nm. The Flange is also a dumper, hit it in the center to not damage it.
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Post by XC70Rider »

Antoine240bk wrote: 27 Mar 2019, 17:02 I removed the center bearing, while pushing with the M8 bolt at the back of the Flange, pull down the propeller shaft at the cross brace. I used only one M8 x 30mm bolt to push the Cv joint out that way.

1/2 wrench with an extender and a 24mm socket worked, but i had a counter-hold tool, and then an extractor tool.
The screw torque spec is quite hight 180Nm. The Flange is also a dumper, hit it in the center to not damage it.
Thank you for the tips and photo Antoine. I PB blasted those two M8 holes tonight. I'll clean up the debris in those holes with my air gun. If the M8 bolts don't go in easily I'll insert then extract an M8 die several times.

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Post by Archer »

Once you remove the 6 allen bolts and you have movement, the cv joint is able to release from the companion flange, it should not get hung up...pull down at the center bearing and continue pull down/forward. I did not have to use bolts from the rear to push it out, I just banged on the flange a bit and used a screwdriver to pry between the cv joint and flange. But, at the time, I had a Southern car with no corrosion. Also, I used a 3 arm puller (loaner tool from Autozone) to pull the companion flange off. It's unfortunate that it's such a tedious process just to change the Haldex oil.

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Post by vtl »

Haldex pump dies in 10-12 years - you may have to replace oil twice before it dies again ;)

Gen 2 Haldex is far superior than Gen V in terms of longevity.

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Post by XC70Rider »

Got the six allen bolts removed this evening. To get the 8mm allen socket firmly into the bolt heads I had to scrape out rust using a thin flat screwdriver. The threads are plated so not much force needed to loosen them. With the flange being a damper and mine badly rusted I'll push out the CV joint using M8 bolts. Already have them hand tightened on the back of the flange. With very little clearance I'll need to use a tiny 12mm closed wrench.

What the use of the 24mm socket? I haven't separated the CV joint from the flange yet. I guess the 24mm nut will require the 180nM torque?

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Post by vtl »

There's a 24 mm low profile nut holding the flange that you want to remove for the filter and pump service.

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Post by XC70Rider »

vtl wrote: 28 Mar 2019, 19:16 There's a 24 mm low profile nut holding the flange that you want to remove for the filter and pump service.
With no 24mm nut visible now I guess it's within the flange after the CV joint?

Wherever it's located I presume it requires the high torque.

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