Doing more searching it appears the oil pump can be removed from a Haldex 3 after just popping off the propeller shaft cup (flange). The cup needs to be counter held when using an air impact to get it off the shaft.
It wasn't too difficult. You don't need the counter hold for the prop shaft. It's held in place by the transmission. That means to rotate it, all 4 wheels have to be off the ground to get at all the bolts. For taking the cup off, you need a counter hold. I used 2 scrap bolts and a pry bar to hold it. Then a 2/3 air wrench to get it out past the exhaust and prop shaft. A 1/2 inch was too big to fit. 21mm nut if I remember right. Putting it back on is difficult. The torque spec is really high, so you really need 2 people to get it right. One to hold the counter, one to turn the wrench. And it's a short nut, don't round it off!
My guess he meant 3/8" wrench. I only have a 1/2" air wrench but I can adapt it to 3/8". You'll need black high impact adapters or they'll break.
Haldex Oil Change
-
XC70Rider
- Posts: 538
- Joined: 18 October 2018
- Year and Model: 2007 XC70
- Location: TN
- Has thanked: 35 times
- Been thanked: 41 times
Thank for info vtl. I'll be raising her up tomorrow to give it shot.vtl wrote: ↑27 Mar 2019, 11:15 Rear of the flange has 2 extra holes with threads, use M8 bolts to push the flange out. If the threads are rusted out you may have luck with a cold chisel and hammer on the CV joint itself. One more way is to unbolt the front CV and the support bearing and use the driveshaft itself as a reverse hammer (be ready to replace CV joint).
-
vtl
- Posts: 4727
- Joined: 16 August 2012
- Year and Model: 2005 XC70
- Location: Boston
- Has thanked: 114 times
- Been thanked: 606 times
I removed and reinstalled many Haldex flanges using a regular electric 8A impact wrench, counter-holding the flange by just bare hand. Yes, you want to saw off your impact socket a bit to make it flush with the low profile bolt, otherwise almost any impact wrench can easily do this job.
Clean thoroughly all the mating surfaces, blow with air, lightly coat with grease - that will make it possible to remove it less painfully the next time.
Clean thoroughly all the mating surfaces, blow with air, lightly coat with grease - that will make it possible to remove it less painfully the next time.
- Antoine240bk
- Posts: 113
- Joined: 1 August 2014
- Year and Model: XC70 2.5T-2006 - 4C
- Location: France
- Has thanked: 12 times
- Been thanked: 30 times
I removed the center bearing, while pushing with the M8 bolt at the back of the Flange, pull down the propeller shaft at the cross brace. I used only one M8 x 30mm bolt to push the Cv joint out that way.
1/2 wrench with an extender and a 24mm socket worked, but i had a counter-hold tool, and then an extractor tool.
The screw torque spec is quite hight 180Nm. The Flange is also a dumper, hit it in the center to not damage it.
1/2 wrench with an extender and a 24mm socket worked, but i had a counter-hold tool, and then an extractor tool.
The screw torque spec is quite hight 180Nm. The Flange is also a dumper, hit it in the center to not damage it.
- Attachments
-
- IMG_5498.jpg (318.72 KiB) Viewed 3903 times
Volvo XC70 2.5 T AWD P2 B5254T2 - 12/2005 Four-C Previous : Volvo V70 P1 2.4l 20s 170ch B5244S 03/2000 - Volvo 245 GL Break 1979 B21 -LPG - Volvo 240 GL Break 04/1992 B230F (Daily for 14 years)
-
XC70Rider
- Posts: 538
- Joined: 18 October 2018
- Year and Model: 2007 XC70
- Location: TN
- Has thanked: 35 times
- Been thanked: 41 times
Thank you for the tips and photo Antoine. I PB blasted those two M8 holes tonight. I'll clean up the debris in those holes with my air gun. If the M8 bolts don't go in easily I'll insert then extract an M8 die several times.Antoine240bk wrote: ↑27 Mar 2019, 17:02 I removed the center bearing, while pushing with the M8 bolt at the back of the Flange, pull down the propeller shaft at the cross brace. I used only one M8 x 30mm bolt to push the Cv joint out that way.
1/2 wrench with an extender and a 24mm socket worked, but i had a counter-hold tool, and then an extractor tool.
The screw torque spec is quite hight 180Nm. The Flange is also a dumper, hit it in the center to not damage it.
-
Archer
- Posts: 81
- Joined: 24 February 2016
- Year and Model: 2002 V70/S60 T5
- Location: Florida
- Been thanked: 5 times
Once you remove the 6 allen bolts and you have movement, the cv joint is able to release from the companion flange, it should not get hung up...pull down at the center bearing and continue pull down/forward. I did not have to use bolts from the rear to push it out, I just banged on the flange a bit and used a screwdriver to pry between the cv joint and flange. But, at the time, I had a Southern car with no corrosion. Also, I used a 3 arm puller (loaner tool from Autozone) to pull the companion flange off. It's unfortunate that it's such a tedious process just to change the Haldex oil.
-
XC70Rider
- Posts: 538
- Joined: 18 October 2018
- Year and Model: 2007 XC70
- Location: TN
- Has thanked: 35 times
- Been thanked: 41 times
Got the six allen bolts removed this evening. To get the 8mm allen socket firmly into the bolt heads I had to scrape out rust using a thin flat screwdriver. The threads are plated so not much force needed to loosen them. With the flange being a damper and mine badly rusted I'll push out the CV joint using M8 bolts. Already have them hand tightened on the back of the flange. With very little clearance I'll need to use a tiny 12mm closed wrench.
What the use of the 24mm socket? I haven't separated the CV joint from the flange yet. I guess the 24mm nut will require the 180nM torque?
What the use of the 24mm socket? I haven't separated the CV joint from the flange yet. I guess the 24mm nut will require the 180nM torque?
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post
-
- 4 Replies
- 1070 Views
-
Last post by volvolugnut
-
- 6 Replies
- 5037 Views
-
Last post by vtl






