So my 1999 V70 AWD is throwing several codes:
P0014 - points to cam position sensor or VVT solenoid. Both are fine and swapping known good components or unplugging existing ones does nothing.
P0351, P0352, P0353, P0354, P0355 - ignition coil malfunction or signal not present.
It starts with the P0014 and clearing that does nothing. It comes right back. Engine feels sluggish like its pulling timing, but does start every time.
Then the ignition codes begin in no particular order but always one at a time. Engine still feels a little weak, but boosts fine and has no misfire codes. Unplugging coils yields misfiring on unplugged cylinder. Moving coils around changes nothing either. It's as if I've lost 50 horsepower.
The most recent thing post-cylinder head and prior to this issue was that I replaced the TCV to fix a no boost condition. I doubt that would cause anything and I've torn that whole side apart since then to check all wiring and test the Cam Position Sensor.
I'm starting to suspect that it is a timing issue. Maybe a tooth or two off on the exhaust side? I try to post here only when I've exhausted my own techniques and can give some background to what I've tried so far.
What is going on with this car? Is it timing or electrical gremlins?
Odd Errors after Cylinder Head R&R | Timing Issues?
- nickelghandi
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- RickHaleParker
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Ignition coil. Faulty signal on all five cylinders.
Got to be:
1. The 12v power to all five coils.
2. All five connectors are loose/dirty/defective.
3. Common ground.
Did you reinstall the ground strap to the head?
Got to be:
1. The 12v power to all five coils.
2. All five connectors are loose/dirty/defective.
3. Common ground.
Did you reinstall the ground strap to the head?
⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
- wizechatmgr
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Check and make sure you didn't squish the fuel injection harness while putting the cover on top of the engine...
Wisdom requires knowledge as a prerequisite, but knowledge can be developed due to a lack of wisdom.
In order to learn how to fix something, you must first learn how to break it.
1999 V70 XC AWD 2.4 T -- ~231k miles
1998 V70 2.4 NA -- ~184k miles
In order to learn how to fix something, you must first learn how to break it.
1999 V70 XC AWD 2.4 T -- ~231k miles
1998 V70 2.4 NA -- ~184k miles
- abscate
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There are two coil ground points on the top of the head , M6 bolts, And another M6 on each coil, all seven need to be clean and tight.
As Rick pointed out the ground strap from head to firewall has to be cleN am done tight and tested for resistance if old, or you put a new one in.
Monitor the 12V on the coilsupply...it’s common.
The ECU fires the coils by grounding the coil outputs
As Rick pointed out the ground strap from head to firewall has to be cleN am done tight and tested for resistance if old, or you put a new one in.
Monitor the 12V on the coilsupply...it’s common.
The ECU fires the coils by grounding the coil outputs
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
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Link to Maintenance record thread
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Ozark Lee
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There are two ground points on the cam cover where the coil grounds bolt on, be sure they are both tight along with the straps back to the firewall as was suggested. The P0014 points to the preload on the CVVT not being properly set.
Did you use the cam adjustment tool to set the cam timing and set the CVVT hub after you swapped the head? Since the CVVT hub is not indexed in any way it is almost impossible to get it correct without the tool. If you never removed the CVVT hub from the cam then it is likely just a matter of going through the preload setup procedure.
...Lee
Did you use the cam adjustment tool to set the cam timing and set the CVVT hub after you swapped the head? Since the CVVT hub is not indexed in any way it is almost impossible to get it correct without the tool. If you never removed the CVVT hub from the cam then it is likely just a matter of going through the preload setup procedure.
...Lee
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- nickelghandi
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I've checked all wiring and bolts on the coils and all seem fine.
I will check out the ground straps at both connection points and report back. I'll also check resistance. Are the correct voltages and resistance values posted here somewhere?
I know I had to remove the one ground bolt that attaches to the upper torque mount when I replaced the mount but I'm sure I snugged it down. It could be dirty or cross threaded though.
I'll also check the 12v on the coil supply.
I'm hoping it's electrical. My indie Volvo mechanic timed it for me. I tore most of the way down into it but got nervous about the cvvt and didn't want to buy more tools when I was already $2k in for parts, a new head, and machining of the new head so I towed it to him. He only does Volvos and has saved my 98 once before. He did use all required tools and has done thousands of these jobs. If I cannot find the issue, it will just go back to him to sort out because it didn't have the issue present before the repair. He's already said so. He's about am hour from me though so getting a ride back home while he works is always an issue.
He just replaced the turbo oil drain tube for me and we thought that might fix the issue because I was likely losing oil pressure from the leak. Apparently that wasn't the case.
If I do end up taking it back, I might hang out and watch him do the work so I can see how it's done on the cvvt cars. I've watched Robert's videos on it and a few others, but I'm still not confident on it just yet.
I will check out the ground straps at both connection points and report back. I'll also check resistance. Are the correct voltages and resistance values posted here somewhere?
I know I had to remove the one ground bolt that attaches to the upper torque mount when I replaced the mount but I'm sure I snugged it down. It could be dirty or cross threaded though.
I'll also check the 12v on the coil supply.
I'm hoping it's electrical. My indie Volvo mechanic timed it for me. I tore most of the way down into it but got nervous about the cvvt and didn't want to buy more tools when I was already $2k in for parts, a new head, and machining of the new head so I towed it to him. He only does Volvos and has saved my 98 once before. He did use all required tools and has done thousands of these jobs. If I cannot find the issue, it will just go back to him to sort out because it didn't have the issue present before the repair. He's already said so. He's about am hour from me though so getting a ride back home while he works is always an issue.
He just replaced the turbo oil drain tube for me and we thought that might fix the issue because I was likely losing oil pressure from the leak. Apparently that wasn't the case.
If I do end up taking it back, I might hang out and watch him do the work so I can see how it's done on the cvvt cars. I've watched Robert's videos on it and a few others, but I'm still not confident on it just yet.
-Nick
- nickelghandi
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Alright, so I took it back to my indy Volvo guy. He found some play in his timing alignment tool and my timing was a minute amount off. The P0014 code is gone for good. It looks like if you buy the $80 timing tool, it is a relatively simple procedure to set the timing even if it is out of time. His timing tool was 5 years old and had seen hundreds of timing jobs. As he said, he didn't charge me for the 2+ hours I am sure it took to check the timing, set the timing, and ensure all pieces on both ends of the cam are set properly.
I am still getting P0351 through 355 though. I have checked all wiring to the coils including grounds and all seem fine. I am going to start replacing ground wires first because they are old and though they look good, they might not be. They also seem to be the cheapest option. I suppose next, I will try new spark plugs, followed by coils, and ultimately a new wiring harness.
Any suggestions are still welcome. I have a multi-meter and free time here and there.
I am still getting P0351 through 355 though. I have checked all wiring to the coils including grounds and all seem fine. I am going to start replacing ground wires first because they are old and though they look good, they might not be. They also seem to be the cheapest option. I suppose next, I will try new spark plugs, followed by coils, and ultimately a new wiring harness.
Any suggestions are still welcome. I have a multi-meter and free time here and there.
-Nick
- abscate
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How old are the coils and plugs ?? 10!years max on coils if you don’t want to see failures
They go suddenly , you can’t determine age or condition by resistance, other than good/shot
They go suddenly , you can’t determine age or condition by resistance, other than good/shot
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
- nickelghandi
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Probably original. Volvo and PO probably wouldn't have shelled out the $$ for OEM. Do you think all 5 would go at once? The odd thing is that it still runs okay. Just lacks a bit of power, and throws those codes.
I suppose I'll get some coils and see what happens. I can always send them back or, worst case, I will have new coils good for another 100k or life if I order from FCP.
I suppose I'll get some coils and see what happens. I can always send them back or, worst case, I will have new coils good for another 100k or life if I order from FCP.
-Nick
- nickelghandi
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The plot thickens...
I looked at some ignition coils on eBay and most seem to lack the Volvo branding as mine do. Is there any way to tell if the coils are OEM? Mine seem to lack any sort of branding.
I did find a loose ground which I repaired to no avail. I had a stripped ground bolt on the passenger side ground which I replaced with a slightly larger bolt that I forcibly threaded into the aluminum. I also added another grounding point where the front cam timing solenoid would go if I had intake vvt. I ran that to the ground by the battery with some relatively low gauge wire. This had no effect...
I discovered over the last couple days that my battery is shot. It will not even charge so is likely shorted internally. It is pouring rain currently, but as soon as it stops, I am going to swap in my battery from my S70 and see if that has any effect. I am sure a weak battery could enough of a disturbance in the electrical flow to cause my present condition which is "signal not present" on the ignition coils.
If the battery fixes it, I will know what to do. If not, I will gamble on some new Bosch coils. The plugs are new and are NGK iridiums.
I looked at some ignition coils on eBay and most seem to lack the Volvo branding as mine do. Is there any way to tell if the coils are OEM? Mine seem to lack any sort of branding.
I did find a loose ground which I repaired to no avail. I had a stripped ground bolt on the passenger side ground which I replaced with a slightly larger bolt that I forcibly threaded into the aluminum. I also added another grounding point where the front cam timing solenoid would go if I had intake vvt. I ran that to the ground by the battery with some relatively low gauge wire. This had no effect...
I discovered over the last couple days that my battery is shot. It will not even charge so is likely shorted internally. It is pouring rain currently, but as soon as it stops, I am going to swap in my battery from my S70 and see if that has any effect. I am sure a weak battery could enough of a disturbance in the electrical flow to cause my present condition which is "signal not present" on the ignition coils.
If the battery fixes it, I will know what to do. If not, I will gamble on some new Bosch coils. The plugs are new and are NGK iridiums.
-Nick
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