2004 S60 2.5TAWD spark plugs

[StickyPocket]

Hi all, finally got around to doing this. Turned out great! At least I think so (the car runs). Thanks everyone for your help

I did notice when I took the engine cover off that there was new oil pooled around ignition coil 2:

I soaked some of it up, and noticed there was some oil on plug 2's threads, as well as what looked like a steak down the opening to the plug. I'm suspecting that the last time the oil was changed (or longer ago) someone spilled oil around the opening for filling. It did look like someone had cleaned up a spill on the cover. Shouldn't be anything to worry about I hope?

Here's my old plugs:

[abscate]

Little bit of oil is fine. If you are going to run 15 year old coils, carry a spare. (perfect
Y fine strategy)

[EngineeringBloke]

Oil in the spark plug hole can get onto the plug threads as the plug is unscrewed from the engine (when there is oil in the hole).

Clean up any old oil, so the area is dry. replace oil fillet cap seal (1), and do the glove test (2). And check to see if any oil returns.

(1) Oil can escape from the oil filter cap when the engine is running, if the cap seal ring is old. Replacements are cheap and worthwhile.

(2) Do the glove test to see if the rubber glove over the oil filler hole inflates (engine running). In this case (inflation), do the PCV clean/replacement before an engine seal is blown.

[StickyPocket]

Did the glove test about a month ago, had a nice vacuum, seemed fine. Will look into the cap seal and will buy a coil to keep on hand. If a coil goes bad, does it say which one is bad on the console? Or would I need a code reader to know which one?

[abscate]

You need a code reader, and also confirm by swapping. Wait until you are near a junkyard, buy a cheapie, test it in car, then use as spare.

Approach two is when you reach 100-150k miles on originals is to buy all new ones, sell four on eBay, keeps one spare

Coils will cost....

90 for Volvo
60 for good aftermarket
30 for junk aftermarket

[cn90]

I mentioned this before, but I will say it again.

Leave the cosmetic cover (and the Torx screws) out. Save them on your garage shelf.

This way if you ever spill oil (when adding oil), you can quickly see it and clean it.

Also, access to spark plugs, coils is much easier.
That cosmetic cover serves no functional purposes other than cosmetic!
The cover may be harmful (trapping heat and makes the coils hotter than they need to be).

[abscate]

I forgot you are really low miles on this cars. Don’t worry about a spare coil until 100k miles.

[abscate]

Little bit of oil is fine. If you are going to run 15 year old coils, carry a spare. (perfectly fine strategy)

corrected text and Clarification

A preventative maintenance strategy is to replace coil over plug coils at 10 years/100,000 miles. If you do this, you never have a coil failure. Downside, capital cost of coils.

A cheaper strategy is run to fail - at 100k, buy a spare and replace when a coil fails, buy another. rinse, repeat. Some hassle, but cheaper.

[93SCMax]

I've followed a "much" cheaper strategy. Bought a spare coil at 140k, but haven't used it yet. I'm at 152k and 18 years with no coil failures. I really trust Volvo OEM parts manufactured in Germany...that or I'm living well. Spend it when you feel comfortable, but sometimes it's not necessary. I agree you need a preventative maintenance strategy.

[abscate]

I've followed a "much" cheaper strategy. Bought a spare coil at 140k, but haven't used it yet. I'm at 152k and 18 years with no coil failures. I really trust Volvo OEM parts manufactured in Germany...that or I'm living well. Spend it when you feel comfortable, but sometimes it's not necessary. I agree you need a preventative maintenance strategy.

Speculation - if you keep tight on your spark plug maintenance and gap, the coils work less hard and last longer. Perfectly good theory, little evidence to back it up.

I had one coil failure at about 120k after a jump start incident which probably did it in.

Second set now at 230k-120k = 110k