Odd Errors after Cylinder Head R&R | Timing Issues?

[Ozark Lee]

What is the gap on the spark plugs?

Out of the box they tend to run around 0.045 and you need to gap them at 0.028 and error on the tight side.

...Lee

[nickelghandi]

What is the gap on the spark plugs?

Out of the box they tend to run around 0.045 and you need to gap them at 0.028 and error on the tight side.

...Lee

Lee, good idea. I just got done checking the gap and it was above .040. I gapped it down to .028 with my tool. It now seems like it starts up a tiny bit quicker but that wasn't really a problem anyway. The codes keep coming back.

I put a new battery in and it does start and run better, but I'm still getting those codes and a general lack of pep.

[nickelghandi]

Alright folks... I have now installed new ignition coils to no avail. Should I try new plugs before beginning to rip out wiring? That was the only thing that was changed by my indy that has anything to do with ignition. The ones he used are NGK BKR6EGP or NGK Platinum plugs.

I cannot remember if I mentioned this already, but the check engine light is not illuminating anymore with these codes. My ScanGauge picks them up, but the light isn't on. If I unplug a vacuum line I can trip the CEL so I know it is working.

I have tried so far:
Ignition Coils - Replaced
Spark Plug Gap - Set to 0.028 with a gap tool
Engine Timing - alleviated code related to timing.
New Battery with hope of fixing a hidden voltage issue

Here is another odd thing... Right after the cylinder head job, it had zero power due to no boost. The BCS had failed and all boost was leaving via the wastegate. It showed no engine codes whatsoever, but was painfully and dangerously slow. I replaced the BCS with a new Pierburg one and it boosts, but began throwing these codes.

If I clear the codes with my ScanGauge at idle in park, there is a noticeable drop in RPM and the engine runs "rougher" for about 3 seconds before returning to a normal idle. A few minutes later the codes will show as pending, and then as active codes. Clearing them again does the same thing.

I am seriously beginning to dislike coil-on-plug ignition systems.

[abscate]

If I clear the codes with my ScanGauge at idle in park, there is a noticeable drop in RPM and the engine runs "rougher" for about 3 seconds before returning to a normal idle. A few minutes later the codes will show as pending, and then as active codes. Clearing them again does the same thing.

Thats normal. Each time you clear the codes you force the ECU to go through another learn cycle to map the adaptive, so it will run funny for a few minutes at least. If you are really observant, you will notice cruise control doesn't work until the first map has been written to memory.

[abscate]

Time for a compression test. You need to get down and dirty with this one.

Do you have 50 psi fuel pressure at the rail, measured by gauge?

[nickelghandi]

Time for a compression test. You need to get down and dirty with this one.

Do you have 50 psi fuel pressure at the rail, measured by gauge?

Compression is 165-167 across all 5 cylinders and it holds. That's measured by my mechanic and then by myself with my cheap gauge.

I'm not sure on fuel pressure. Would that cause errors typically linked to the ignition coils?

I'm more concerned with a wiring fault that is intermittent and therefore not detectable by my multimeter. I get a consistent 12V across that rail feeding the coils.

[tardcart]

It sounds like one of the cams a tooth off, have you rechecked timing? if thats good then the turbo control dump valve coincidence may hold some sort of clue. additionally, the ox sensors may have been damaged by over heat and water vapor. its nearly 100% that the problem is related to the event or the repair.

[abscate]

Time for a compression test. You need to get down and dirty with this one.

Do you have 50 psi fuel pressure at the rail, measured by gauge?

Compression is 165-167 across all 5 cylinders and it holds. That's measured by my mechanic and then by myself with my cheap gauge.

I'm not sure on fuel pressure. Would that cause errors typically linked to the ignition coils?

I'm more concerned with a wiring fault that is intermittent and therefore not detectable by my multimeter. I get a consistent 12V across that rail feeding the coils.

Don’t read too much into the misfire codes as being coil based. I also don’t put a lot of faith in them identifying a bad cylinder unless the engine runs smoothly and only one cylinder misses.

The ECM uses the knock sensor and the CPS to determine which cylinder isn’t firing so if there is a lot of roughness it can be wrong

[nickelghandi]

Right, but I'm thinking the cylinders are all firing properly. The compression numbers seem good. The engine runs smooth. I know a misfire when there is one even if it's slight. The engine starts and idles just fine. It is only when I am trying to accelerate that I feel it lacking in power. I know the wagon is a bit slower than the sedan especially with an AWD to FWD convert, but not like this.

Again, those codes never set a CEL. I've left them on for 300+ miles at a time and they never go away, but never set the light. Is that common? Introducing a vacuum leak or unplugging the MAF will set the light so I know it works.

The engine doesn't hesitate, but it just feels low on power. I think I do have one collapsing turbo hose at the top of the intercooler. If I floor the gas pedal, there is a slight hesitation and with the hood open you can see that hose begin to collapse if you give it a little gas in park.

It does seem to have some lifter tick or at least it is noisier than my S70. I verified that is in the top end with a sthesthoscope because I feared rod knock. I suppose that it could be spark knock as well, but it's more likely camshaft play or lifter tick because I had to use the old cams in the new cylinder head.

If you have seen my other thread where I posted pics of the damaged piston from when it jumped time (before it came to me) you can see a small mark on the piston, but it is pretty negligible. That is in cylinder 1 which was dead at that time due to a bent valve that was stuck open. That should only affect compression I would think, but cylinder 1 actually had 166 PSI so it didn't affect it much.

I use only Shell V-Power Nitro 93 Octane gas in both turbos and have tried different levels of gas in this to see if it makes any difference. None.

This thing is wearing me out, but I've dumped so much into it that I'm determined to make it into a drivable car because it isn't worth selling and I really do like the station wagon setup. It actually has more room than my Nissan Pathfinder and gets much better fuel economy.

I'm so thankful to you guys for trying to help me sort this out. It is a frustrating endeavor to say the least, but hopefully in the end I'll have another nice "old" Volvo to use as a daily and for some longer trips.

[abscate]

Could you be loosing boost from the Turbo pull off? Follow vacuum line from manifold down to the turbo, look for a three bolt triangular case. It’s a b***tch, but remove M6 screws and inspect spring and diaphragm for holes