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How many drain and fills ?

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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erikv11
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Re: How many drain and fills ?

Post by erikv11 »

daughtersmechanic wrote: 06 Aug 2019, 10:09 ... How does one dispose of used ATF, anyway? The last time I brought oil in for recycling, they put me through an interrogation, afraid that I might contaminate their (already contaminated) oil with some other fluid.
Autozone is happy to take ATF mixed with oil (or not mixed), e.g. https://www.autozone.com/landing/page.j ... onsibility
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oragex
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Post by oragex »

Did flush mine at 100k too. I have to say, it worked less well afterwards. Before the flush it was shifting with only a very small kick, after the flush the kick was more obvious.

The transmission adapts continuously to the fluid properties. Replacing a large part of the fluid at once, may not help the transmission to adapt quickly enough (bigger the change, bigger the adaptation). When we drain the sump, we remove 3.5L which is exactly half the capacity of the transmission. So the transmission has to adapt to 50% new fluid all of a sudden - this new fluid has quite different properties than the old one. Plus, the old fluid is the genuine one, replacement ones (Mobil, Toyota, etc) have different properties. On top of this, the solenoids are old and work more or less freely, so the adaptation is even more difficult.

If I was to do it again, I would remove a smaller amount of fluid every time: more like 2L instead of a complete 3.5L sump drain. Then drive the car at least 500-1000 miles inside the city where the transmission has to do a lot of shifting so has plenty of time to adapt to the amount of fresh fluid. And given the aftermarket fluids are not exactly as the genuine one, I would invest a little and buy genuine fluid. If you look at the cost, 12L of genuine vs 12L of Idemitsu is only $100 more, basically the equivalent of 3 oil changes. I think it's well worth an extra $100 for the transmission. Of course, just my opinion 8)

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Rattnalle
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Post by Rattnalle »

Re oil burner.
It says nothing on there about the treatment of hazardous emissions. I think you'd be sued all over if you tried using one of those here and just vented the exhausts.

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Post by abscate »

- Pete - wrote: 06 Aug 2019, 18:20 Oh sure, UL listed & everything. Course, lots of DIY type heaters being used. But in the event of a fire you're in deep doo-doo. Or at the least your losses aren't covered.

The one shop I bring used oil/ATF to runs one of these. Last winter, a particularly long, hard & cold one, the guy that owns the shop said he ran through 2,500 gallons.
5 months of heating that is 500 gallons a month, or 3 oil changes a day. Not to mention you still charge the $5 waste disposal fee.

A man after my heart, surely.
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Post by BlackBart »

Rattnalle wrote: 07 Aug 2019, 06:40 Re oil burner.
It says nothing on there about the treatment of hazardous emissions. I think you'd be sued all over if you tried using one of those here and just vented the exhausts.
And we thought "clean coal" was bad!
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Post by okidiver »

That screen shot is the Baboon Method...

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MoVolvos
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Post by MoVolvos »

okidiver wrote: 07 Aug 2019, 19:35 That screen shot is the Baboon Method...
In 2nd grade we took a field trip to the zoo. Teased a monkey and it went ape poop :twisted: on my sweater by jumping into the fence from afar. Good thing I had a shirt underneath. Trust me, never monkey around with the Baboon Method.
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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Howler Monkeys. When a predator gets close they throw scat at it.

Gotta respect that, sort of like the work world.
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Post by Georgeandkira »

HISTORY:
1) Over 3 V70's I've done drain & fills and one pump out aka Gibbons with no ill effects.
.....I've used Toyota T-IV, Mobil3309, Maxlife Dex/Merc LV and a Wolf's Head Universal ATF.
.....I add LubeGard (red bottle) at the recommended 1 oz. per system quart dosage.
2) Doing a drain & fill immediately before a pump out lessens the amount of fluid needed by quite a bit.
3) Many prefer using genuine Volvo fluid. Many others warn against "multi fluids". Make your own decision.
4) One bloke bemoaned the inavailability here of the 20l Mannol keg from Germany. This is where I come in on my white horse.
5) The Amalie store website is down for revision. A company rep sent me this link as I need some fluid now.

Go here: www.amazon.com/Wolfs-Head-836-92866-56- ... ems&sr=1-5

If my fluid was brown, dark brown, black or burned smelling I'd happily perform one or more drain & fills using one of the above fluids.
The degree of clarity you settle for is up to you.
Anyone in the "Volvo trannie fluid only" camp can now use it much more economically.
I ain't washing my dirty beer glass with champaign.

All the pieces I've read on neglected transmissions state that the torque converter collects dirt and that a complete pump out can be soon fouled as said dirt goes into solution.

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GlennG2759
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Post by GlennG2759 »

At $17.57 for Valvoline Maxlife full synthetic 4 quart jug at Walmart (my local store parts wants $28.99). I'll do 3 drain & fills over the 500 miles, adding some TransTune on the last one and be done with it for under $70.00. Thanks for input. Glenn

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