1988 Volvo 740 Stationwagon rear crank seal

beginagain · Post by **beginagain** » 25 Oct 2019, 16:56

Hi all,
i as wondering if anyone knew the max depth a seal could be sunk to on a 1988 volvo 740 statiowagon with a b230 engine? Im getting conflicting depths so any clarification would be great.

Also has anyone ever cleaned up a groove made by an oil seal with fine emery....im wondering if there is a technique or any wisdom on this.

Thx All

lummert · Post by **lummert** » 26 Oct 2019, 15:58

www.cleanflametrap.com/RMS.html

www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=21587

www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/EngineSealsBel ... cementTips

beginagain · Post by **beginagain** » 27 Oct 2019, 09:56

Thx for the reply lummert.
I was wondering if anyone had info on how far the seal could be sunk into the housing......my haynes manual tells me both 3mm and 6mm. Looking at the way its set up it seems i could sink the seal all the way to the back of the housing with no problem but before doing this i wanted to see if anyone could clarify this.
Thx

93Regina · Post by **93Regina** » 27 Oct 2019, 11:59

beginagain wrote: ↑27 Oct 2019, 09:56clarify this

Examine Lummert's cites above...

"Seal Choices: [Matt L./Rolyak] There are two rear seals available: one is 10mm thick (red: silicone) and the other (grey or brown: Viton) is 7mm. The more expensive Viton will last much longer than the silicone rubber material.The 10mm is stock and the 7mm is replacement. Why? Because the original 10mm seal wore a tiny groove in the crankshaft after thousands of miles of driving. For best results, the new seal should rub against the crankshaft in a new place (after you have cleaned the crankshaft with crocus cloth or fine steel wool). You could also accomplish the same thing by driving the 10mm seal into the seal housing slightly more than the old one was. "