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"immobilizer try start again" "anti skid service required"

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jharmon13
Posts: 3
Joined: 23 Feb 2020, 18:23
Year and Model: 2011 c30 t5 r design
Location: PA

Post by jharmon13 »

I am going to be as detailed as possible in regards to my situation.

Back on Feb. 3rd I get into my car and I get a low beam bulb failure message because my driver side headlight had burnt out. For my drive to work in the morning I turned my headlight setting knob to the parking lights to turn off my headlights as to not attract any police. Well stupid me, I left the knob in that position and when I left work my battery was dead to my surprise. Well a coworker jumped my car for me and all was great again.

Over the next week I noticed my car was taking slightly longer and longer to start. The longer my car sat the longer it would take. About a week and a half ago I started getting an "immobilizer try start again" and my car would shut off and I would have to start again. I would also randomly get "anti skid service required" and "headlamp failure service required" messages. But they would go way the next time I would start the car. I disconnected and cleaned my battery terminals with baking soda and water on friday afternoon in hopes of an easy fix, but this did not solve the problem.

Now my car is taking 6+ tries at starting before I get a solid start with 0 issues. I really hope someone can help me in diagnosing my problem. Iv'e done a little research and some people are saying a bad cell in the battery and to just replace it. I hope this is the case.

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RickHaleParker
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Post by RickHaleParker »

jharmon13 wrote: 23 Feb 2020, 18:42 Iv'e done a little research and some people are saying a bad cell in the battery and to just replace it. I hope this is the case.
Low voltage can do it. Measure the battery voltage before you start the car. Post the measurement.
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jharmon13
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Joined: 23 Feb 2020, 18:23
Year and Model: 2011 c30 t5 r design
Location: PA

Post by jharmon13 »

I do not have a tool to measure the voltage. Any suggestions?

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yagger
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Post by yagger »

jharmon13 wrote: 23 Feb 2020, 20:18 I do not have a tool to measure the voltage. Any suggestions?
Yes. Need to buy multimeter and test-lamp at least.

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RickHaleParker
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Post by RickHaleParker »

jharmon13 wrote: 23 Feb 2020, 20:18 I do not have a tool to measure the voltage. Any suggestions?
Head to Walmart and get a Digital Multimeter.
Active
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2017 Ford PIU. 3.5l, Twin Turbo, 365 Hp.
............................
Past
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000. ( Killed by a plastic radiator. )
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion ( I moved, the project did not )
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0. ( Transmission dead after sitting for a winter )

jharmon13
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Joined: 23 Feb 2020, 18:23
Year and Model: 2011 c30 t5 r design
Location: PA

Post by jharmon13 »

RickHaleParker wrote: 23 Feb 2020, 20:07
jharmon13 wrote: 23 Feb 2020, 18:42 Iv'e done a little research and some people are saying a bad cell in the battery and to just replace it. I hope this is the case.
Low voltage can do it. Measure the battery voltage before you start the car. Post the measurement.
I just ran the multimeter and the v's were reading in the 10's. Looks like I will need a new battery.

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RickHaleParker
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Post by RickHaleParker »

jharmon13 wrote: 24 Feb 2020, 10:22 I just ran the multimeter and the v's were reading in the 10's. Looks like I will need a new battery.
That is way low.

Full charge, 2.1 V per cell.
2.1V * 6 = 12.6V
12.6 - 2.1 = 10.5V
Active
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2017 Ford PIU. 3.5l, Twin Turbo, 365 Hp.
............................
Past
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000. ( Killed by a plastic radiator. )
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion ( I moved, the project did not )
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0. ( Transmission dead after sitting for a winter )

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