2001 V70XC - 200,000 Miles Makeover Topic is solved

[MoVolvos]

Did you purchase the Impact from HB? I would not recommend it as it only has a 90 day warranty.
https://www.harborfreight.com/85a-12-in ... 64120.html

As for that nut use PB then a chisel at an angle on one edge of the nut backwards and then forward before using a breaker bar. Then again you could always try the HB Impact to see if it will take it off but if you don't like the quality return it regardless if it removed the nut.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Milwaukee-2663 ... 4476915513

I am leaning toward the electric impact. There is a sale at the local HFT this weekend. FORTRESS goes up to 5-SCFM

The hub should arrive today.

The ratings are excellent and it looks good also. If you go into the store they'll ask if you want to purchase an extended warranty vs the HB 90 Day Special.
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[xHeart]

Yes they are. Did you get it through FCP?

Did you get a cam locking tool? If not, mine is free for the taking now that I'm done with my task.

Pulley came from Volvo Lisle Parts.
Very helpful Pete! Order from FCP is in works for related items... mulling over replacing TB items, water pump, and serpentine.

There are two choices at Amazon for camshaft locking:

A full set: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WF ... I90N&psc=1

... and then there is just the locking parts:

Did you purchase the Impact from HB? I would not recommend it as it only has a 90 day warranty.
https://www.harborfreight.com/85a-12-in ... 64120.html

The ratings are excellent and it looks good also. If you go into the store they'll ask if you want to purchase an extended warranty vs the HB 90 Day Special.
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A Bauer route with PB treatment on the crankshaft nut may be a step forward in DIY.


Meanwhile, the fluid escaping from the camshaft is evident. Yesterday, looking up, after removing the engine protective cover from the underneath, in the direction of where the water pump mounted at the engine block, the back of the inner TB cover is wet at touch. The fluid then collects on to the motor mount and subframe.

[- Pete -]

This guy was selling a nice looking setup, it’s gone now but maybe you can see the seal setting tools & look those up online.

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=92865

My cam locking tool is the CTA one sold on FCP. I used appropriately sized sockets to drive my cam seals in & a funnel to get the crank seal over the stepped crank nose, then just my fingers to push it in.

[xHeart]

This guy was selling a nice looking setup, it’s gone now but maybe you can see the seal setting tools & look those up online.

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=92865

My cam locking tool is the CTA one sold on FCP. I used appropriately sized sockets to drive my cam seals in & a funnel to get the crank seal over the stepped crank nose, then just my fingers to push it in.

Just the right DIY kit.
FCP should rent these specialized tool kits to MVS DIYers if one buys parts, like me -- Lol!

I'm preparing to do this job during a weekend in March -- end of March. Your use of Snap-on is a secured set up for pulling the crankshaft gear off. I did not see anything close like your's at HFT, except 3-jaw gear puller.

My experience of using 3-jaw gear puller over inner CV was unsuccessful, just as you described, it slipped off each time. Is the 3-jaw tool better suited for crankcase gear?

[vtl]

I pulled mine with 2-ton 2-jaw puller. Put a coin between crankshaft and the puller's threaded stud, so it wouldn't bind and bend.

[- Pete -]

Or maybe if a bunch of us pitched in we could have them in the MVS loaner tool chest. Pay a damage deposit & shipping & rental is basically free.

I’ve never tried a 3-jaw puller on the crank pulley, only ever used that 2-jaw snap on. I’m not sure there would be enough room between that bottom edge of the pinch weld behind the plastic wheel arch for a 3-jaw?

If you have a 2-jaw puller maybe just drill a hole in each arm & use wire or a SS Ziptie to keep the arms held together so they don’t separate when you start applying force. Once it starts to budge the force required to continue removing it gradually lessens to the point you can slide of off the last 1/4” or so by hand.

The Snap-on one is nice but quite expensive (and not mine!).

Edit, I should clarify, when I type “crank pulley” I’m referring to the crank pulley/sprocket/gear as in the one the timing belt runs on.

I may have mentioned it earlier, but the serpentine belt pulley on the crank tends to get hung up on the rusted alignment dowel - so hit that with a wire brush/wheel & some oil. Can usually walk it off with your hands after a blow with a rubber/plastic mallet.

[vtl]

Frozen crank pulley you have to work out with PB Blaster, rubber mallet, hands. The gear behind pulley is not difficult with 2- or 3-jaw puller (plus a coin).

[XC70Rider]

Using air impact wrench this kit worked fine to pull off my harmonic balancer

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0721 ... UTF8&psc=1

The kit is brass so I slowly applied torque.

To get the seal over the splined rod I borrowed this tool from an Indie Shop

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hNqtI ... 32-h888-no

I then used PVC pipe to further seat it.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yru3B ... 66-h888-no

As mentioned you could use a funnel to get the seal over the splines. I've used electrical tape on other vehicles. Whatever you try cover it with motor oil so it easily slides.

[xHeart]

Using air impact wrench this kit worked fine to pull off my harmonic balancer

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0721 ... UTF8&psc=1

The kit is brass so I slowly applied torque.

To get the seal over the splined rod I borrowed this tool from an Indie Shop

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hNqtI ... 32-h888-no

I then used PVC pipe to further seat it.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yru3B ... 66-h888-no

As mentioned you could use a funnel to get the seal over the splines. I've used electrical tape on other vehicles. Whatever you try cover it with motor oil so it easily slides.

These are very helpful with envisioning of the oil pump service task. TY!

Do not use the impact on the harmonic balancer nut with the cam locking tool in place. Break that crank nut loose before you lock the cams. Mark your nut & harmonic balancer with a white paint marker prior to busting it loose so you can line it back up during reassembly. Same goes for tightening the crank nut - tighten it with the cam locking tool OFF the rear of the head. I’ve always used my impact to tighten it back down & have done so more times than I can recall. That’s the purpose of having white paint marks on your harmonic balancer & crank nut. Get them lined back up, or as close as you can & call it a day.

Awesome detail Pete. Both, timing belt and serpentine belt go over the crank assembly. So, do I align the timing marks first, then break the crank nut, then implement the cam lock, AND then only pull off the 2 belts.?

Helpful reference on TB: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=62665&start=20

[- Pete -]

I take the serp/accessory belt off first, then timing cover.
Now get timing marks aligned.
Next, with your 30mm on the crank nut & a breaker bar, go 90* clockwise beyond, stop, then roll it back to your timing marks.
Then blast the nut off with your impact.
Remove serpentine pulley, put nut back on finger tight & realign timing marks w/breaker bar. It never hurts to do the 90*’s past once again if you want to. After that, blast the crank nut off with your impact again (crank & cams should not move), verify timing marks are still correct. I make white paint marks on these - top timing cover which correspond to the notches below, timing belt itself, and fronts of cam sprockets.

You can install the cam locking tool now or after the timing belt is removed. I’ve done it both ways. In fact, I’ve done several timing belt jobs on which I never used the cam locking tool.

Once the cam tool is in & the timing belt is off the fun should begin. With the 2.4T I was able to install the cam tool without the use of the additional spacers & long bolts. I used just the bare tool, short bolts, and 2 washers on each bolt to make up for the extra length. You’ll understand when you go to install the tool. Without the washers in place the bolts are too long and don’t tighten the “locks” into the rear of the cams fully.

After this is when you’ll need to make more white paint marks on the top of the valve cover which will correspond to where your cam sprockets will align. Intake isn’t tough since it’s non-VVT. Exhaust, transfer the white paint mark you made for timing to the valve cover. You will end up with 2 marks - one at full retard (me) & one at full advance. Be cognizant of where your head/eye is positioned when you make these marks!

Did you get a cam locking tool yet? I can send mine if you wanna save some money. I think I paid $85 for mine but that I believe is on the low end for a CTA tools one.


Edit: the 2.4T’s are goofy to me with how everything aligns. For example, in the photos below my crank is aligned exactly as it should be - with the line on the block pointing right between the 2 marks on the crank pulley.