1996 Volvo 960 Fuel Rail

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 14 May 2018, 11:42

Perhaps the rail off of a 98 S90 or a 99 S80 2.9 might be of the updated design and possibly fit?

One could get a fuel rail from just about any 2.9 to work IF one pays attention to the whole fuel delivery system, converts and fabricates as needed.

Volvo2009 · Post by **Volvo2009** » 15 May 2018, 11:10

Thanks for the reference. I already sold the car.

Heymikey · Post by **Heymikey** » 17 May 2018, 10:43

Fold

I too have a 96 960 with a leaking fuel rail (from the end cap). Just bought a used fuel rail from a 98 S90.

Any suggestions on installing this? I’m a newbie to this site and a new 960 owner.

Thanks

Mike

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 18 May 2018, 12:43

I too have a 96 960 with a leaking fuel rail (from the end cap). Just bought a used fuel rail from a 98 S90.

Front or back end?

Take a hard look at the leak, can it be patched with JB Weld?
Can you JB Weld an aluminum cap over the end and be done with the problem quick and easy?

emacsp · Post by **emacsp** » 29 Feb 2020, 05:37

I have the same problem. Please tell me where might I find the aluminum cap that you talk about sealing the leak with?

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 29 Feb 2020, 15:43

emacsp wrote: ↑29 Feb 2020, 05:37 I have the same problem. Please tell me where might I find the aluminum cap that you talk about sealing the leak with?

I was speaking of the end of the rail as seen in the video below. You drain the fuel out of the rail. Clean up the end so the JB Weld will bond to the Aluminum. Then put a fillet of JB Weld all the way around the edge where it leaks to seal it. Let the JB Weld fully cure before you recharge the fuel rail. About 24 hours at warmer temperatures.

It helps if you elevate the front of the car so that fuel runs to the back of the rail.

The cap is something you would need to scrounge up from the junk box. The cap idea is just to cover up the JB Weld patch so that it looks good but is not necessary. If you are not fussy about it not looking original forgo the cap.

If you find a cap that will fit over. Bond it to the end with a little JB Weld. Before it sets clean up any excess JB Weld with a rag damp with Acetone.

dm635 · Post by **dm635** » 04 Mar 2020, 13:44

Going through this right now. On my 4th 960 and just now found it was dripping. Didn't happen on any till now. Glad it wasn't spraying.
Put a JB weld patch on but haven't driven yet. Got a junk yard fuel rail today, $15.
Will get some injector and fuel line O rings and replace. 12 for injectors and 2 more for the feed and return hoses

CSDentonTX · Post by **CSDentonTX** » 09 Mar 2020, 14:41

I know some people have used a nickel for the cap. I just used a chewing gum sized glob of JB Weld and covered the whole thing as best I could.

dm635 · Post by **dm635** » 11 Mar 2020, 08:18

I didn't use a nickel or any type of plug.
Just cleaned the end pretty good and patched the end with JB Weld and it's holding for now.
I was intermittently smelling fuel after shutdown getting out of the car. Even checking the end it appeared dry. Was getting a drip about every 30 seconds.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 11 Mar 2020, 15:31

dm635 wrote: ↑11 Mar 2020, 08:18 Even checking the end it appeared dry. Was getting a drip about every 30 seconds.

The EPA will condemn your 960 for that. This is exactly why they require EVAP.

Two drips per minute = 0.288 gallons per day = 2.016 gallons per week = 8.735 gallons per month = 104 gallons per year.

1996 Volvo 960 Fuel Rail

Re: 1996 Volvo 960 Fuel Rail