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Rubber Dust Shield between the axle shaft and hub bearing?

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Kick Panel Broken Tabs Fix
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da7
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Year and Model: 1997 S70 N/A 20V
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Re: Rubber Dust Shield between the axle shaft and hub bearin

Post by da7 »

ecbsykes wrote:
volvodoc wrote:rubber should be installed it keeps water from getting onto the axle splines this can allow axle ti seize to hub brg and future servicing could be costly one part num is 9492980 there is a vin split take your vin number to dealer
PB Blaster + Hammer :mrgreen:

He does have a good point though. Checking it out on volvowholesaleparts.com they have that part for very little money.

thanks for the replies... but i've put my car back together already... I'll ring Volvo tomorrow to see how much they want to charge me....

ecbsykes: funny you said that, while i was doing the other brake rotor, the rotor was seized to the hub bearings, couldn't get it off, wd40 overnight no good, flames no good, mallet no good, didn't have PB Blaster (can't find them here), so out comes the big hammer.... 3 whacks and the disc went flying... lol... hope i didn't damage anything else... :lol:


had a short run today but it's cold and raining over here, so will take it for a drive again tomorrow just to run in the brakes a bit more...

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Post by FlyingVolvo »

I just had the same experience! New brakes all around; the fronts went off and on super easily. The rears gave me a lot of grief though. I found the best way was to not just hit it dead on from the front, but to also whack it along the sides.

I wuv my big metal hammer. :twisted:
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da7
Posts: 110
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Year and Model: 1997 S70 N/A 20V
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Post by da7 »

ecbsykes wrote:I just had the same experience! New brakes all around; the fronts went off and on super easily. The rears gave me a lot of grief though. I found the best way was to not just hit it dead on from the front, but to also whack it along the sides.

I wuv my big metal hammer. :twisted:


yaaaa... violence solves all problems (when fixing cars that is) if problem aren't solved, it means we haven't been violent enough.... :twisted: out comes the bigger hammer.... :lol:

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oragex
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Post by oragex »

Thought bringing back this thread, this is the seal in question, it actually keeps dirt from getting at the wheel bearing - the bearing is sealed but if this dust seal is missing, the bearing will wear prematurely (not a fun job). I believe it goes with the larger side on the CV joint - it should fit tight over the side of the CV joint any way, not loose.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 15#reviews
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abscate
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Post by abscate »

I believe the P80s didn’t come with the seal but you should add it whenever the axle is off
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Post by Richard99 »

My 2000 V70XC has them.
Eric

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LSV70R
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Post by LSV70R »

I just changed this on my 2000 v70 R. I removed the axle when doing my engine rebuild and never replaced the seal, now this wheel bearing went bad. Not sure if its due to the missing seal or just 160k miles.

Anyways I bought the seal on europarts.com along with my wheel bearing. It was 5$, part number is 9492980. I'm sure it will help protect the bearing and the splines on the axle where the abs wire reads.

Hope this helps,
Louis

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Thanks for using the part number Lou

That helped find the link to the chassis break thread , instantly.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forum ... 80#p593718
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Post by FireFox31 »

The wheel bearing dust shield fits over the end of the axle. The attached picture shows the orientation on a 2000 V70 NA automatic front right axle. It can only fit on the axle one way because only one side's opening is big enough.

On rusty, neglected Geronimo, a hard and cracked dust boot still kept the inner surface of the wheel hub clean enough that I could read the manufacturer name and country of origin. That hub still failed, but the car has 357k miles and I have no idea how old it was. On the other hand, a bearing I took from a junkyard with maybe 130k miles did not have a seal. The inner surface was dirty enough that I could barely see the manufacturer and country. However, that hub worked fine once installed.

For $5, it seems like cheap insurance to help protect this expensive and important part.
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Wheel bearing dust shield orientation
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FireFox31
Blue 2000 V70 NA manual, "the V70" - died, reborn, totaled, donated, stripped
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ronmeneses
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Post by ronmeneses »

So my question is whether not having the dust seal in place or having one that is corroded and just kind of hanging in there can cause the wheel speed sensor to provide faulty readings.

About 18 months ago I replaced the passenger side axle with a GKN axle. At the time, I noticed that the dust seal was not it great shape but since it was a weekend and my local dealer was already closed, I put everything back together using the old crusty seal. Within that same weekend my ABS light came on. Since the car had more than 200K miles at the time, I just figured it was coincidence and that the ABS module had just finally gone bad.

Fast forward to this weekend - I just replaced the driver side axle with a new GKN part and found another corroded dust seal. Again, not wanting to wait for the dealer to open the next morning, I went ahead and finished assembly with the corroded seal. After driving the car the second time after the repair, I got a check engine light that scanned P0500 - Vehicle speed sensor circuit A.

I have read discussions about bad wheel bearings the cause of VSS faults. Has anyone heard of this dust seal being the cause of a VSS error? The part of the seal that corrodes is the part that gets sandwiched between the end of the axle (CV joint), and the wheel bearing. That thickness is probably about 1/16". It doesn't seem to me that that would be enough to put the ABS ring out of position enough to cause a faulty reading, but who knows, if a bad wheel bearing can do that......maybe the loss of that material from the dust seal?

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