Front end suspension

mountain73 · Post by **mountain73** » 02 May 2020, 21:25

Aloha MVS support, so I take a chance by working on my car, it’s always a learning experience and there is improvement when working on similar issues, I have learned a lot the past few years, saved money and haven’t gotten myself into too much trouble.
The lower control arms, ball joints, and thin vertical ( suspension arms) needed to be replaced on the driver and passenger sides. I always spend time looking at similar problems on this site and the web to get familiar with the work, and sort through the online parts suppliers to figure out what I need, compare with prices vs quality and make a selection. I went with an IPD control arm kit and an FCP sachs strut kit, the springs were good, no need to replace. I try to follow the steps the best I can, however sometimes it’s just as well to tear it apart, note where all the correct bolts go and find out for yourself. The Haynes book is sometimes a little hard to decipher. Luckily, the nuts and bolts came off without any stripping, the star bit is a torx 40 and 50. Changing the strut, the two spring clamps helped a lot. I made a little tool to take the star nut off, would have been easier to purchase the one advertised for $15. I was able to take the balljoint out without a press or pickle fork, I didn’t need the press to put it back in either. I just lightly hammered it back in around the edges tightening the bolts as I went. One question I have is the advice is to discard the old nuts and bolts and use new ones and use a torque wrench to the specs. I haven’t done that, Just hand tightened with a ratchet, I’ll check on the tightness in a week or two. I am pleased with the components purchased, everything worked out well, quality parts. The last issue is the torn CV boot, which I noticed while doing the driver side suspension. Now I’ll have to take it apart and replace the boot. Any comments and suggestions are appreciated.

mountain73 · Post by **mountain73** » 02 May 2020, 21:28

The first photo is on the passenger side at the front looking towards the back, the second photo is the torn CV boot.

Post by **- Pete -** » 02 May 2020, 21:52

I’ve reused those nuts & bolts a few times. I wouldn’t lose sleep over it.

I also take the high road for tee-nut & ball joint removal/install. And I have the proper tools for both! Just faster to do it the common sense way. Good job to you!

On the bottom photo, was the inner CV joint pulled out too far?

mountain73 · Post by **mountain73** » 02 May 2020, 22:21

I noticed the boot was ripped after taking the wheel off to replace the suspension parts. There was grease on the control arm, and surrounding area. I haven’t noticed any sounds while driving and turning hasn’t been a problem. The tear looks recent, I am guessing around a month. I’m looking into replacing with a quality rubber boot, I’m reading reviews, or maybe a boot cut in half and sealed with glue, most likely won’t last long but interesting to look at the longevity. Thanks for the response.

Post by **- Pete -** » 02 May 2020, 22:35

If either CVJ has gone sour you’ll feel a vibration at speed, but ONLY under load. My guess is, if the boot tear is nearest the shaft (where it appears to be in the image), you will not lose enough grease to sacrifice the inner CVJ. Obviously, you will eventually get sick of the grease spatters being flung around though.

chris11211 · Post by **chris11211** » 03 May 2020, 01:39

mountain73 wrote: ↑02 May 2020, 22:21 I noticed the boot was ripped after taking the wheel off to replace the suspension parts. There was grease on the control arm, and surrounding area. I haven’t noticed any sounds while driving and turning hasn’t been a problem. The tear looks recent, I am guessing around a month. I’m looking into replacing with a quality rubber boot, I’m reading reviews, or maybe a boot cut in half and sealed with glue, most likely won’t last long but interesting to look at the longevity. Thanks for the response.

Don't bother with boots. I tried it and got stuck with the tripod rollers inside being impossible to remove without proper tools, and you're gonna pull your hair out, knowing that you can't drive around until a new Cv axle comes in (story of my life). And on top of that, the CV axle is already worn, and I bet the outer joint is on its way out. I also bet the passenger side CV axle is gonna go too, so go back in there and take a good look at the boots for cracking.

If you don't want to deal with the super inflated $200+ CV axles from GKN. Then the only other option I see is to buy the $80 chinese axles from autozone or advance auto or whatever. Which is what I did, because the reality is that these cars aren't all that, there gas hogs in the city, and the lineup is getting old. Fun to drive though. Almost a year now and no leaks.

Now the exact replacement that isn't genuine volvo is from GKN. Looks like the price went down (again old cars), because I remember them being $300+.

Here's the link for the axle, and hopefully you got an automatic. (Also, FCPeuro is the best site for volvo parts lifetime replacements, next would be IPDUSA)

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... kn-8252033

The next tool you'll definitely need is an axle popper. Now you're not going to go around and pop axles out for a living unless you are looking at being a mechanic, so it's best to see if you can find someone to borrow it from. Or at the very least "borrow" it from Amazon . It might be very mean for the environment, but money is money.

The item code is CTA 4017; just google that and see what's cheapest for you.

You'll also need petroleum jelly, so before you put it in, you first lather up, very liberally, the teeth that is in the axle that goes into the transmission. You then line up and insert until it stops, and then you line up the axle (maybe someone or something to hold the rotor) and then you aggressively push in the axle.

Here's the passenger side too. You might want to just get that too; definitely if you see cracks forming on the boot.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... kn-8252046

mountain73 · Post by **mountain73** » 03 May 2020, 12:33

Thanks for the advice and for the links, I’m going to give it a try and I’ll post the results. I have more common sense now, that when I feel something isn’t working right I’ll stop and put it back together if I can’t do it the correct way.

hmsky83 · Post by **hmsky83** » 17 Jun 2020, 03:27

mountain73 wrote: ↑03 May 2020, 12:33 Thanks for the advice and for the links, I’m going to give it a try and I’ll post the results. I have more common sense now, that when I feel something isn’t working right I’ll stop and put it back together if I can’t do it the correct way.

Not sure if you got this done but I was in you same predicament. I wish I would have seen your post I could have helped you.

Same situation happen to me. I ordered the inner boot for the passenger side and to my surprise it was way easier than everyone made it out to be. The axle was removed and I took off the old boot and put on the new one, filled it with grease and used my new
oetiker pliers to secure the oetiker clamps. In fact it was so easy that I went ahead and ordered the outer boot too and that went smooth too. So now instead of having to buy a new axle I got to keep my Original Volvo kne...the boots costed me $7 and $8 on FCP Euro. It's weird though this week I decided to do the same for my driver's side as preventative maintenance. I go to order the same boots and they doubled in price to $14 and $16 on FCP Euro ?

By the way the boots I bought were the Empi brand and was so impressed they fit like a glove. Before I did any work I watched videos on YouTube by Ericthecarguy on CV axle repair (deassembling/assembling the parts and boots) and
1A-Auto on removing & replacing the whole axle assembly. When I did this ill admit I was tempted to buy a new axle ("Chinese"ones) for ~$80 on 1AAuto because they offer life time warranty. So as I took on the task I new in the back of my mind if it didn't work out I would just order a new one.

Any way sorry for long reply if you still need help email me and I'll guide you bro.

Post by **abscate** » 17 Jun 2020, 04:28

1A-Auto on removing & replacing the whole axle assembly. When I did this ill admit I was tempted to buy a new axle ("Chinese"ones) for ~$80 on 1AAuto because they offer life time warranty.

We like these on MVS because, just like URO oil parts, our membership stays engaged each time they come back to repeat the job a few months later

MVSarcasm (tm)

Post by **Mike Langlois** » 17 Jun 2020, 15:11

You may wish to consider not replacing the whole axle with the cheap ones. Before I inherited my 2002 V70 X/C I replaced the axle with an Autozone cheap unit. I had to replace it again within one year. I finally watched the videos and put new boots on the other side. Not too hard and you keep your Volvo axle. I know these are not classic cars (Like the 1965 Shelby GT350 parked next to it), but I do not trust the cheap axle much and wish I was not looking at $500 or so for a new Volvo unit.