low battery after 6 month repair wait. Topic is solved
- abscate
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Re: low battery after 6 month repair wait.
If the plastic cover is in correctly and the timing belt is rubbing, something is wrong in fitment
Empty Nester
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A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
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- oragex
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Your tb tensioner is a little tired or perhaps the center bolt is too tight (15 ft-lb), that's why the belt is wobbling over the tensioner causing it also to rub on the cover. With the engine off, push down on the belt between the two cam gears, see if the tensioner needle moves to the right then goes back. May also check the needle stays at 12h with the engine cold.
The chirping in the first video is from the pulleys on the serpentine belt, spin all of them all by hand, the alternator also has a clutch pulley www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_Pzmj0jxfw
The chirping in the first video is from the pulleys on the serpentine belt, spin all of them all by hand, the alternator also has a clutch pulley www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_Pzmj0jxfw
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
- jonesg
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maybe the belt drifting on that tensioner pulley is the source of the contact between belt and plastic cover.
The point of contact is just below the tensioner.
everything seems to be pointing at the tensioner, if the belt was the problem it would show up more on all the pulleys but its worse at the tensioner.
Last edited by jonesg on 09 Jun 2020, 07:47, edited 1 time in total.
- jonesg
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Its possible, we did everything 3 years ago but at the end of the job the engine went completely out of timing between the cams and the crank pulleys (valves were touching pistons when rotating crank by hand), I had to make a long trip so I had a local mechanic finish up the timing job for me. It ran ok for 3 years but now I discover this whilst chasing down the rubbing sound.oragex wrote: ↑09 Jun 2020, 05:02 Your tb tensioner is a little tired or perhaps the center bolt is too tight (15 ft-lb), that's why the belt is wobbling over the tensioner causing it also to rub on the cover. With the engine off, push down on the belt between the two cam gears, see if the tensioner needle moves to the right then goes back. May also check the needle stays at 12h with the engine cold.
The chirping in the first video is from the pulleys on the serpentine belt, spin all of them all by hand, the alternator also has a clutch pulley www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_Pzmj0jxfw
Tensioner indicator moves ok when belt is depressed.
Indicator shows on the cold side of the range , temperature now is 15C or 60F.
I will wait until it warms up to 65F and check again.
If it still indicates on the cold side I'll reset it and test run the engine again.
- abscate
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Gif that’s the Allen key hole at about 3 o’clock your tensioner has been incorrectly adjusted. It should end up at about 6 o’clock. You tension is counterclockwise past the set point , then return to the set point.
Empty Nester
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- jonesg
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yeh I see, had to search a while to locate my allen keys, still haven't unpacked everything since moving here 3 yrs ago.
I saw a video on youtube, looks like I pre-load the tensioner, rotate back to proper setting it, then lock it down.
But first, another cup of coffee.
- jonesg
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I adjusted
the tensioner, same problem with wobbling.
The tensioner bolt was too tight to loosen with stubby ratchet wrench, had to grab a 14" ratchet wrench.
so I guess I need to replace?
its possible this was the wrong part from the get go, I see 04 was a split yr with 2 possible tensioners, I never knew that when I ordered it.
I've been struggling to get the number from the rear of the block, scrubbing with a brass toothbrush, spray with brake cleaner, take pics, still hard to be certain but I think I might have it.
3135435 does this number make sense ?
the tensioner, same problem with wobbling.
The tensioner bolt was too tight to loosen with stubby ratchet wrench, had to grab a 14" ratchet wrench.
so I guess I need to replace?
its possible this was the wrong part from the get go, I see 04 was a split yr with 2 possible tensioners, I never knew that when I ordered it.
I've been struggling to get the number from the rear of the block, scrubbing with a brass toothbrush, spray with brake cleaner, take pics, still hard to be certain but I think I might have it.
3135435 does this number make sense ?
- RickHaleParker
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That line is the engine serial number and it is only six digits.
The line above it is the Engine model and revision ID.
Soak it with a degreaser then wipe it clean with a Scotch brite and a rag.
The degreaser "LA'a Totallly Awesome" which sells for $1.00 per 1/2 gallon at The Dollar three will clean it up.
You can also soak it with degreaser then pressure wash it clean. If you do not have a pressure washer there is one at the local car wash.
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1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
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