$10,000 S80 Challenge Topic is solved

[xHeart]

New replacement? I replaced one with OE/Volvo on our 3.2 XC90.

[pgill]

XHeart,

I did buy a Volvo Radiator

I couldn't find an aftermarket Radiator with the Prem Air Sensor and Coating.

A standard radiator would have saved my $100 or maybe more.

But my check engine light would be on

In California I have to pass the Emissions test

So no choice but to fix it

Take care

Paul

[pgill]

Mercedes also uses the Prem Air style radiator

And in their service bulletin they show an excellent picture of how the radiator fails if the sensor is not carefully removed.

This is exactly what I did.

Prem Air Sensor.jpg (74.21 KiB) Viewed 4046 times

[xHeart]

XHeart,

I did buy a Volvo Radiator

I couldn't find an aftermarket Radiator with the Prem Air Sensor and Coating.

A standard radiator would have saved my $100 or maybe more.

But my check engine light would be on

In California I have to pass the Emissions test

So no choice but to fix it

Take care

Paul

Would there be an error code for CEL?

[pgill]

XHeart,

There are at least two error codes associated with this sensor

Before replacing the sensor I was intermittently getting this first code

The check engine light would come on but after a few days it would go off

P2568 Direct O-Zone Reduction Catalyst Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance



But after I broke and removed the sensor I got the following code

This code appeared as soon as I started the engine with the sensor removed

P2567 Direct Ozone Reduction Catalyst Temperature Sensor Circuit


The good news is that with the new radiator and sensor the check engine light was off the first time I started my S80.

Take care

Paul

[pgill]

]Xheart,

I found the service bulletin (Technical Journal if you prefer) from Volvo.

The codes listed in the TJ are

RTD_Volvo.jpg (29.29 KiB) Viewed 4014 times

I Just checked the history for my S80

P1087 Not permanent (Resolved on its own)

P2568 Not permanent (Resolved on its own)



And here is the actual TJ

TSB_RTD.pdf

(2.11 MiB) Downloaded 850 times

Thanks

Paul

[pgill]

MVS Readers,

I wanted to share something that I found that was a nice surprise on my 2010 S80 3.2.

I didn't notice when I bought the S80 that the Alternator had been replaced.

I was planning on rebuilding the Alternator or at least replacing the Over Drive pulley, I replaced this pulley on my Land Rover 3.2 and it was seized after 12 years of service.

Now that I know the Alternator was replaced (likely after the 4 year warranty expired in 2014) the replacement part looks aftermarket from BOSCH not a Volvo Factory supplied part. (Let me know if I am wrong about this)

So for now I am not worried about Brushes, Bearing or the Overdrive clutch for the next 5 or 6 years.

I just wanted to share the good things that I find as well as the bad.

Thanks

Paul

[Luca17as]

Hi Paul, what's your opinion about the overdrive pulley OAP instead of original decoupler ?
I've both FL2 and Volvo S80 with 3.2 engine and for some reason my Volvo comes with a strange unique OAP metal finish pulley with a different offset because of 3mm shorter shaft

[pgill]

Hi Paul, what's your opinion about the overdrive pulley OAP instead of original decoupler ?
I've both FL2 and Volvo S80 with 3.2 engine and for some reason my Volvo comes with a strange unique OAP metal finish pulley with a different offset because of 3mm shorter shaft

Luca,

I also have a FL2 and the S80 both 3.2's (you likely know this if you read all of this thread)

I did replace the OAD with an OAP for both of my 3.2s

I am very happy with OAP.

The big difference is that the OAP doesn't dampen vibrations in the belt but the OAD will. The tensioner for the belt also will dampen vibration in the belt it is designed to do this. I have this setup on my Audi 2.0T and it works fine. For the Audi when the tensioner stopped dampening effectively the belt was bouncing a bit. I wasn't sure if it was the tensioner or the OAP so I replaced both on the Audi but the tensioner fixed the problem not the OAP (OAP was working fine).

One last difference between OAP and OAD. The OAP is a simpler design. Its been my experience that simpler parts last longer.

Don't worry about the difference in length in your picture, The extra length is likely needed to fit the extra parts needed for OAD. The belt will be in the same position for both.

Don't worry about this difference.


One last thing to think about for the Alternator the belt is tiny and rigid. For that side I would only use the OAD style. The pulley has to do all the work and the more complicated part is justified.

Take care

Paul

PS I now have the same wheels on my S80 and FL2. I'll try to post a picture. If you get a chance post a picture or two also.

[pgill]

This Video shows

Solid pulley

OAP

OAD

Note: this is for a big 4 cylinder diesel

My 4 cylinder Gasoline powered Audi running an OAP is smoother than the OAP on the FORD Diesel and my 6 cylinder Volvo running an OAP is significantly smoother than my Audi.

If my original OAD lasted the 15 years 150,000 miles that the maintenance schedule claimed it would then I would have replaced it with another OAD but it didn't survive so I swapped to the less expensive simpler design.