850 T5 Blue Smoke after a couple hours of sitting

[fantajuice]

Be cautious about driving it too long with leaking valve stem seals, as the leaking oil will cake onto the valves and eventually burn out your valves, which is much more money and work than just fixing the stem seals.

I have leaky valve stem seals for last 10+ years.
Engine burns a liter of oil per 2-3k km.
It doesn't get worse since the oil consumption is pretty much the same for last 10+ years.

When it was almost brand new(69k km) it used 1-1.5l/10.000km if you drive it hard.

Runs and pulls strong and purrs like a kitten.

Daily driver from almost brand new.

I think that main secret is to floor it in high rpms 2-3 times a month,to burn off those oily deposits from valves.
Maintained regularly and engine never had a hiccup.
Mileage is 320+k km.

I see it more of a personal annoyance, that whenever I blast off from work I leave everyone in a cloud of blue.


However yesterday, fiddling with the ABS fuses, I finally got codes from the module, 5! of them. Wrote them up, cleared the codes and only one remained that showed hydraulic pump failure. Thinking it's probably another fuse, I left it as is yesterday and went to sleep. Today morning ABS warning light is gone.

[misha]

What oil viscosity you use?
I get a puff of blue smoke when i hit gas pedal from a stop after idling a bit and that's it.
No smoke at acceleration or in any range of rpms after that.
Spark plugs are clean and healthy which is a sign of good combustion.

[abscate]

I got valve stem seal smoke when I used Pennzoil 10W-30 synthetic. I switched back to the high mileage syn from Mobil or Castrol and it went away

[fantajuice]

What oil viscosity you use?
I get a puff of blue smoke when i hit gas pedal from a stop after idling a bit and that's it.
No smoke at acceleration or in any range of rpms after that.
Spark plugs are clean and healthy which is a sign of good combustion.

I used Meguin 5W-30 and a Mann oil filter. I also have no idea what was in the car previously, all I know is that it hadn't been changed in a little while.

[misha]

It's too thin for the age and mileage of the engine.
That's why i asked about viscosity.

Switch to 10w-40 semi-synth high mileage oil like Total,Castrol,Mobil....and oil consumption along with puffs of blue smoke will be greatly reduced...around 50%.

If that doesn't help....you will need head rebuilt at least(valve stem seals,etc).

Compression test will also be a smart move if heavier viscosity oil doesn't help.

Clogged pcv system will also force the oil into intake making a good engine to look like it's bad and worn.

[fantajuice]

It's too thin for the age and mileage of the engine.
That's why i asked about viscosity.

Switch to 10w-40 semi-synth high mileage oil like Total,Castrol,Mobil....and oil consumption along with puffs of blue smoke will be greatly reduced...around 50%.

I went with 5W-30 because google-ing around nobody could come to a consensus what to use, so I referred to the user manual and my approximate climate.
I'll probably get oil changed before winter again anyways because I've already put over 1000km on it.
The engine itself probably has 300k km on it, assuming it is the original engine.
Personally I prefer using Meguin oils because they supply for liqui moly and are certified. Plus I've never had an issue on my winter daily ( vag 2.8 ) and that gets a beating.

[misha]

Not all engines likes the same oils,abscate allready pointed that out.

Some of them are thinner and some of them are more viscous for the same viscosity which depends on brand of oil.
They are all within spec for the same viscosity but the numbers are slightly different from brand to brand on viscosity at 40C and 100C.

VW have specific standard when it comes to oil.
I mentioned Total,Castrol or Mobil....Motul is also an excellent brand because they have the highest viscosity for the same range of oils.

That said...Total in 10w-40 can be a bit heavier than Mobil 10w-40....but still in the range.

What viscosity you need for specific engine depends in what condition the engine is and how much miles it have.

If that engine have a bit more life in it,higher viscosity oil will solve the issues you have right now.

[June]

You have 300km = 186K miles 5W30 is fine. I would not put heavy oil in. With the age and miles the turbo might have coking. Try the AP 205. Use 2 bottles. I used it in my car to stop a rear main seal and it worked allowing me time to get it fixed.

The other choice is to use real Synthetic oil. Group 4 100% synthetic oil does not smoke when burned through the engine. It was a old dealer trick for a smoking engine. Group 4 oil has no petroleum in it. You will have to run it on group 4 oil long enough to burn off the petroleum. Anyway it will still be burning oil, just no smoke. 100% Synthetic oil is more expensive if that's a problem for you. I use a group 5 Ester based oil in my car. At 202K no smoke using 5W30 and I'm adding about .5 quart 3000 miles. Likely from valve stem seals. June

[misha]

June...5w-30 is not fine with the clouds of blue smoke he have.
Even Volvo ambient temperature diagram shows that it's NOT suitable for summer temperatures above 30C.
Engine is obviously not happy with it.
5w-40 is more suitable or 10w-40.

Might be bad turbo,might be bad rings or bad valve stem seals.

Compression test will show where is the problem.

[fantajuice]

Well.. after taking off the wheels yesterday to get them balanced the abs and tracs lights came on and they won't go off, gives the 4-4-4 code again and clearing it does not help.
Which fuse is related to this?