My 2.4 takes 5.3 and my 2.5T takes 5.8 I believe.oragex wrote: ↑10 Sep 2020, 10:16 Funnel is a great idea, often times overlooked until you spill oil over the engine. Be ready for an oil mess when removing the filter cup - surely not a job to be done on a shiny new driveway
I second getting the correct tool 86mm 16 flutes. Most have a hole for 3/8 drive wrench tip, but if a previous owner torqued this like a wheel lug, a 1/2 drive hole one is a blessing.
Speaking of oil quantity, do the turbo engines have bigger oil pan ? I can never get 5qts in my non turbo, even after prefilling the filter cup, it takes about 4.8qts to the max mark
prwood wrote:I wish I had a permanent car repair area that was covered, had a level surface, lighting and fans, a workbench, and tool cabinets. You know,like a garage. Much of my time during the job is spent hauling things up and down the stairs to the basement or in and out of the storage shed, or running back downstairs when I realize I need something else,or taking a break from standing out in the sun,or using flashlights or work lamps when it gets dark.
Already picked up the 6L of liquimoly special tec. Will def try to save some money next time. Also got the magnetic plug. Car isn't new to me, and it was in my wife's family since new. The last oil brand was Total, and was done relatively few miles ago, like 5k, but it will be a year ago in December. I heard you want to change oil at least every year even if you don't put many miles on it. I'll look into that analysis, but I'd hope it's in pretty good shape with under 74k miles. It was dealer serviced before i got a hold of it, although it did sit unused for a little while.reverend wrote: ↑16 Sep 2020, 22:11 .
I generally get six quarts to a replacement, with a hair left in the last jug.
The oil you listed is expensive AF and if I recall right, your engine only specified ACEA A1/B1 or A5/B5 for "severe duty". I've been getting the Mobil 1 full synthetic at Costco when they're $10 off a case (six quarts), when it coincides with Mobil's $12/case rebate. That brings the case price down to ~$16, which is $2.67/quart - FAR less than the LiquiMoly.
Next, I'll use the Kirkland oil as it meets the specs (A5/B5 "severe duty") and is even cheaper. Now that I don't drive as much, I only hit 12000 miles in a year, so cost isn't as much of a big deal, but still. Why not save money if I can?
If the car is new to you, I would probably note what oil you're using and change it again in 10K miles (that's often a bit early, but if you don't know the condition of the engine, it's good to have some margins) and send in a jar for analysis.
The magnetic plugs only attract magnetic stuff, so any copper/aluminum and other non-magnetic wear won't show up on it. The oil analysis will tell you everything about the inside of the engine. Coolant, exhaust, wear from valves/stems, rings, bearings, bores, etc. It's a bit like a comprehensive blood test on yourself.
