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'94 850T - Sudden Oil Leak at Front / Forward Side of Block

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
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BlackBart
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'94 850T - Sudden Oil Leak at Front / Forward Side of Block

Post by BlackBart »

I am copy-pasting all this here so I don't clog up the "What Did Your Do to Your P80 Today" thread.

The story is this car, with about 170,000 mi, has been sitting unused in front of my house for quite a while - a year?? Not driven in several months. No drips on the street underneath. It was very dead (POINT 4 volts) so I popped in a new battery, started it up, warmed it up, got it smoothed out, added some injector cleaner, and drove it around some. Took it on the freeway and ran it fairly hard for brief spurts. The new vac hoses I replaced have solved the hesitation I had earlier. Ran really well.

When I came back from my drive, a line of oil drips was coming off the pan. Oil sheeting down the front / forward side of the pan. Got under there with lights to see what was happening.


There are the previous posts by me and responses so far......


Sept 19 BlackBart
Oil change (Castrol GTX 10-30 for the winter), flushed out 3 qts of ATF (pretty dark), new wipers, couple of little things.

As I was poking around under there, I saw that quite a bit of oil is coming down the front / intake side of the block and blowing back across the pan. Not the pan gasket, it looks to be pretty high. Better light and a mirror tomorrow.

What’s up there under the intake that has oil pressure? Does the pcv box have any pressure?.. It’s just a vapor separator. Head gasket? (OH NO MR BILL...) hmm.
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by bmdubya1198
It may be one of the rear cam seals letting the oil trickle down. Those leaks tend to travel.
————————
by BlackBart » Sat Sep 19, 2020 10:52 pm
Like on the distributor end?
———————
by bmdubya1198
Yup. Pull the cap and see if there's a bunch of oil in there.
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by ZionXIX
The oil dipstick tube connects right around that area too.
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BB
I looked at that. Possibility. There's an oil drip on the bottom of the manifold - unless it's spraying from way down there...
I'll check the cam seal at the distributor. I've had a PCV elbow hose split on my P2 and it really sprayed oil all over the front side, so that's suspect as well.

There's an even sheet of oil running down the side of the pan - a long trail of drips, rather than a big spot.

What is this T and fitting with the red arrow here off the long crank gallery? I found this in a very old MVS post.
Oil-02.jpg
Oil-02.jpg (97.28 KiB) Viewed 1146 times
Volvo DOHC left copy.JPG
Volvo DOHC left copy.JPG (374.97 KiB) Viewed 1146 times
———————

by ZionXIX
I'm pretty sure that is for the oil pressure sensor.
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BB
That makes sense - it should be the lower one about in line with the crankshaft centerline.

Just did a glove test on startup - it is not inflating the glove, but it's certainly not sucking it in.
——————
BB
No smoking gun yet. The distributor cap and alum housing are dry. The front (cam wheel) end of the block is dry.

Is it me, or does the P2 have a lot more room to see and maneuver under the intake than the 850T? It may be the big ram's horn / barrel intake is way deeper than the flat-ish P2. I could reach the PCV hose clamp on the block from above and to the transmission end of the block on the P2. The starter, the knock sensors, PS hoses, and a lot of wiring in the way. I lifted the car and I'm trying to see with a mirror from below.

The underside of intake runners 1-2-3 are dry. Runners 4 & 5 are wet. 4 is directly above the oil pressure sensor. The dipstick tube is just forward (towards the cam gears) of that on the block. I snugged up the oil pressure switch, but it was tight. The big side hose with the 90º on the PCV is wet, and the block, as is most everything under there. I don't see any cracks in that hose, the clamp appears ok, but so did my P2 when it split.

So I think something is spraying, to get oil on everything, and running off the pan. I think the intake probably has to come off, then you might as well replace the PCV.
———————
by abscate
You need to get the intake off to determine if it’s pcv leak, oil pressure sender leak, or head gasket leak.
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by j-dawg
Does your dipstick stay seated while you go ham on the throttle? Mine used to eject itself and spray out oil.

The rearward port in that image is to insert a special crankshaft locking tool.

Foof a fine layer of baby powder onto the block and go for a drive, and you should be able to follow any trail of fresh from leaks. You can probably do that with the intake piping dismantled. Might be a pain to clean up, though.

———————
Post by abscate
That looks like a high pressure oil bypass dumping back into the pan.

—————
j-dawg wrote: ↑Mon Sep 21, 2020 1:17 am
"Does your dipstick stay seated while you go ham on the throttle?"

Yes. But glove test shows a slight bit of pressure, so I feel like I should do the PCV while finding the leak.

It sat for 6 months and didn’t leak a drop, then I warm it up, let it idle a long time, and take it on the freeway full blast. Something changed due to that - dry seal, too much crankcase pressure, cracked hose…..
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by FLXC90
Well, The PCV has "flow" if there is a lack of adequate vacuum, oil will go where it can, if the air rushing past from the cooling fan made enough pressure differential, it could theoretically siphon vapor from a split hose or loose fitting. More likely a bad hose just spewing. Possibly the oil cooler or lines for it, or even the oil thermostat, depending on where the airflow through the engine compartment takes things. I would start at the cooler fittings at the radiator, because airflow, and work backwards from there. I would expect air to eddy up under the intake manifold, so that is where it ends up?

And as far as the oil pressure switch, the normal mode of failure on those is not at the threads, but between the body and the core.
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Last edited by BlackBart on 28 Sep 2020, 11:26, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by BlackBart »

SO...if that all made any sense......

I also changed the oil and added 3 new qts of ATF before these drives.

Today I cleaned everything off somewhat (I sort of like the talc powder trace idea, except for maybe cleaning it up), and took it for an easy drive, no freeway or high speed.

There is oil all over the front again, and dripping off the pan. The drips are dark, not like brand new oil. But it doesn't smell like ATF at all. I wondered about that trans cooler line that goes vertical up the side of the block by the rear of the alternator. It is wet quite a ways up, and above the rubber-to-metal hose joint. But I checked the color and smell of the ATF on the dipstick, and it's slightly red and smells like old ATF.

I think this leak is oil.

So the interesting thing I found when laying under there with the lights is a bit of smoke coming off the dipstick (!) So I went up top with a light, pulled the dipstick, and a steady stream of vapor (vapour!) is pouring out.

Doesn't that mean way too much crankcase pressure?
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Post by abscate »

Isn’t the right side the turbo cooler (engine oil ) and the left side the transmission cooler?

Grasshopper. I see 6842413 and 6842414 , 2 each in your future
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Post by ZionXIX »

Have you thought about adding dye to the oil and checking frequently with a UV light to track its source?
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Post by erikv11 »

disclaimer I didn't read the long first post, sorry ...

What abscate said - the cooler line near the alternator is oil cooler. If that line is wet above its metal-to-hose joint then you may be lucky, and the leak is just the sealing ring and/or o-ring where the line plugs into the radiator. Heck could even be just the metal clip on the line is bad or on wrong.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

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Post by BlackBart »

abscate wrote: 27 Sep 2020, 18:09 Isn’t the right side the turbo cooler (engine oil ) and the left side the transmission cooler?

Grasshopper. I see 6842413 and 6842414 , 2 each in your future
wait a sec.....is that right? They come out of the radiator, passenger side, going downward, turning to metal lines, then turning towards the passenger side sort of in front of the right wheel well. I lost them there, car is back on the ground. Looking up a parts diagram now.

So, let's say that line is spraying oil mist......what about dipstick vapor and lack of clear suction on glove test? Two issues here you think? ...or......crackcase pressure helped that oil line union to fail...?


Master...you have already provided the part numbers that I have yet to seek in my quest....

..but man, my forearms still hurt!!
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Post by BlackBart »

erikv11 wrote: 27 Sep 2020, 20:22What abscate said - the cooler line near the alternator is oil cooler. If that line is wet above its metal-to-hose joint then you may be lucky, and the leak is just the sealing ring and/or o-ring where the line plugs into the radiator. Heck could even be just the metal clip on the line is bad or on wrong.
Good call, but no oil up that high. I actually wiped those fittings on the radiator and they're bone dry. It starts halfway down the rubber portion, but above the metal pipe union. Looks suspiciously like the dipstick pipe o-ring could be spraying on it, but I couldn't make it do that holding the throttle by hand with a light right on it.
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Post by BlackBart »

abscate wrote: 27 Sep 2020, 18:09 I see 6842413 and 6842414 , 2 each in your future.
How about hose 3528201 and hose 3528207 for $238 so far, plus associated seals and gaskets and those o-rings.

https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/show ... evel=24662


I'm understanding the plumbing better now, thanks.
GR-68412.jpg
GR-68412.jpg (26.22 KiB) Viewed 1114 times
I found this clever gent who repaired / rebuilt his own hoses, right here on the MVS (funny how many searches lead you right back here...)
viewtopic.php?t=86914
Although I don't know why you can't just use high quality hose clamps instead of Oetiker.


viewtopic.php?t=75921

Great write-up and pics here from JReed...
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=56014

Moar advice..
viewtopic.php?t=36007

OK....

1. Verify the leak is this hose.
2. Verify excessive crankcase pressure and PCV. I can dig through old records and see when I did this last.

Then, what the heck, maybe it needs a TB while it's apart, and maybe bypass the failing A/C compressor with a non-A/C car accessory belt for now, and.....
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Post by abscate »

Although I don't know why you can't just use high quality hose clamps instead of Oetiker.
Cheaper and better.

Because all the companies that make these were out of business by oetiker.

:D

See if one of the standard plumbing sizes will fit. 3/8 1/2 3/4 1 inch, about $0.50-1 Each in 10 pack.

You can open those stages with a Dremel and rehose the leakingfittimgs with oil hose for about $20

Double oetiker clamp those hoses.

PCV pressure has No impact on oil pressure.
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Post by erikv11 »

BlackBart wrote: 27 Sep 2020, 23:37 ...
OK....

1. Verify the leak is this hose.
2. Verify excessive crankcase pressure and PCV. I can dig through old records and see when I did this last.

Then, what the heck, maybe it needs a TB while it's apart, and maybe bypass the failing A/C compressor with a non-A/C car accessory belt for now, and.....
(1) Yes. of course. And it didn't sound like the hoses were bad, just the connection to the radiator, but check it out.

(2) Can't see any reason this is relevant.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

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