sheared subframe bolt '96 850

[xHeart]

No need to drop the subframe.

Reposition the subframe back over the nipple, screw on the good side (place a jack to support SB), then drill it out through the bushing - bolt hole.

New LEFT HANDED drill bit may be best for this task.

[jlp920]

Dropping subframe isn’t too bad. Are you near me in NE? I can loan the engine carrier and save you fabbing one. I do need it back to a steering rack but time isn’t critical right now

thanks a ton, that means a lot. i already have an engine support in place. Looks like I picked the right forum. I like the idea of not dropping that subframe and instead using it as a guide to drill through the locating nub.

[S60UT]

Not sure on the 850 platform, but on my 00 V70 there is a rubber grommet on the frame right next to that nub. If you have that grommet, you can get better access to apply penetrating oil and maybe with some heat you can use an EAZY OUT to remove the bolt.

[jlp920]

I appreciate all the feedback. I would love a little more insight into what I'm drilling into, and any perils of this job or more clarity on it. Research and prep is always key for something like this. I have a set of left-handed bits on order–I would like to avoid removing the subframe, but I will if I have to. There're 2 1/2 to 3 inches of bolt that need to be drilled out, that's a pretty good depth to maintain a perfectly straight hole. I may tackle it next week, I may wait til spring, i don't know yet. I did get the rack out just in time–2' of snow yesterday. Thanks again for your help and comments.
-Jesse

[abscate]

Ha! So it’s the Westminster MA

We are 2.5 hours apart so a long hour if we meet in the middle


The hole doesn’t need to be exactly centered. Once it nips the threads the bolt loses all tension and it will start to come out with a leftie bit

Can someone measure the length of a subframe bolt ?

[jlp920]

it's a 100mm bolt from the end to the washer face. About 1/2 of that is in the car.
Good to hear that those lefty bits may just drag that thing outta there.
How is it that it can free up in spite of all the heavy torque that snapped it in the first place?
Not doubting, just trying to learn.
Me, I'm in VT. And yeah, a long hour.

[xHeart]

it's a 100mm bolt from the end to the washer face. About 1/2 of that is in the car.
Good to hear that those lefty bits may just drag that thing outta there.
How is it that it can free up in spite of all the heavy torque that snapped it in the first place?
Not doubting, just trying to learn.
Me, I'm in VT. And yeah, a long hour.

These are old, mean, and hardened bolts. Be prepared to drill through the full length of the broken piece. Here are few pointers: determine what drill bits may be used (beginner, intermediate, and final), is there a need to insert a pvc support sleeve to help keep the bit relatively straight, need for a high speed drill for the job, AND paitence.

Did you pull the inside carpet to undo u-joint at the steering -- what does the floor side looks like?

Meanwhile, this thread may help a little viewtopic.php?f=1&t=54721

[jlp920]

These are old, mean, and hardened bolts. Be prepared to drill through the full length of the broken piece. Here are few pointers: determine what drill bits may be used (beginner, intermediate, and final), is there a need to insert a pvc support sleeve to help keep the bit relatively straight, need for a high speed drill for the job, AND paitence.

Did you pull the inside carpet to undo u-joint at the steering -- what does the floor side looks like?

Meanwhile, this thread may help a litter viewtopic.php?f=1&t=54721

Thank you.
Well...Patience I usually have. Left hand bits came in, they go from 1/32" up to 1/2"
I did see the floor when I pulled the rack, no obvious access to the top of the subframe connection, but I will explore a bit more.

[xHeart]

Thank you.
Well...Patience I usually have. Left hand bits came in, they go from 1/32" up to 1/2"
I did see the floor when I pulled the rack, no obvious access to the top of the subframe connection, but I will explore a bit more.

^It secures your success.
The final bit size should hollow the bolt and shave close to the threaded wall -- a wearing of 10º out of 360º would be safe. Else, use 1/8" - 1/4" bit to break and collapse the shell.

[jlp920]

I remain grateful for your help.
I'm concerned about staying true with the bolt for the whole 50mm I will need to drill.
I'm also wondering about the effectiveness of using left hand bits for the whole process. Will they drill as well as regular bits?
Another question is the material I'm drilling into, what the inside of the frame looks like there...
is there room for error in case a re-tap is needed? My concern with drilling through the bushing is staying true in the bolt hole. I feel as though I'd be flying a little blind, so I'm leaning toward dropping the subframe. Thanks again for helping me to work through this, I'm still piecing it together through
all the suggestions I've received so far.