Common Issues With V70s, XC70s? Looking To Purchase Pre-Owned

[S1L3NTSH0UT]

Greetings,

I'm in the market to purchase a pre-owned Volvo V70, XC70 or V60. From my initial search, my credit/budget has me looking for them in the range of 2012-2017 (searched in Carvana and Truecar). I'd prefer as new as possible though I am partial to the XC70 so it will probably have to be a little older than that.

I've owned a 2002 V70 XC Cross Country since 2015. I bought it used from someone who was not the original owner. I absolutely love the thing but I've spent a lot of money in maintenance and repairs. Too much to go into detail. Right now it's got 5 different expensive things happening at once that I just cannot afford to handle. It's too much now. Plus it's getting up there in mileage at about 197k.

So I'd like to know what kind of common issues people have been dealing with in the newer models so I know what to watch out for. Can anyone throw some advice this way? Thanks in advance.

[pbierre]

We've got two P3 XC70s (2013, 2015.5), both bought used from dealer just coming off warranty.

These cars have been generally problem free.

The 2013 developed an engine screech, which is the sound the PCV Oil Trap makes when the diaphragm breaks. We had the Oil Trap replaced, but since then, I found out there are diaphragm replacement kits.

The 2013 came with an undiagnosed cooling system problem. I noticed that she was running 5-10C hot (coolant temp should be 88-90C). The dealer had replaced the water pump, but the problem was poor radiator airflow -- about 50% of the surface area has the fins "cratered". I had to pull off the front bumper to decrater it. The radiator fins are very fragile -- inspect before you purchase used car. There is no coolant temp. gauge on the 2013 -- I had to hook up an OBD-II scanner to get the coolant temp. On the 2015.5, (all new digital dashboard display), there is a temp. gauge.

I wouldn't purchase a Volvo that was outfitted to pull a trailer. The transmission is very good and well matched to the car, but not really designed for pulling a trailer load (i'd buy a truck instead).

As far as maintenance, there is no timing belt - the 3.2 and T6 (inline 6) use a lifetime timing chain. The accessory belt, alternator coupling, vacuum pump, water pump and READ pulley should be replace at 150,000 mi.

Volvo's claims of never needing to flush the tranny and AWD fluids are not credible. A well-maintained Volvo will have tranny flushed no later than 100,000 mi. Same with 3 AWD components (angle gear, Haldex and rear differential). Power steering and brake fluid flushes due every 40K mi.

A ding or crack in the windshield can be a major repair for the 2012 --> models with camera and LIDAR forward-looking optics. These systems must be properly coupled to new glass and recalibrated.

There are 100s of electronic features on these cars. If not buying from a reputable dealer, you need to give yourself a good hour to check out everything. I prefer to buy these used ones from a Volvo dealer....they are thoroughly vetted, and the cars with problems go off to auction.

Those are the things I'd be careful about.

[Jdawgvolvo]

If you don’t need the wagon also consider the P3 S80 in T6 or T8 Trim. Gives you AWD. Very nice ride with roomy trunk.

As mentioned above, once you get to 100k miles you need to ensure all the fluids are replaced, plugs, filters etc. It’s surprising how often you search for a used car and find maintenance was ignored.

The front struts and control arms also can get tired.

Lots of YouTube videos on the P3 cars to help on maintenance if you so choose.

[pgill]

The P3 Volvo is a really nice car.

And I agree that the S80 is a good choice if you don't need a wagon.

In fact I bought a 2010 S80 3.2 with 125,000 miles on the odometer 2 years ago

I have a thread about what I've done to the S80 since I bought it


Based on my S80 experience I recommend the following (for the 6 cylinder 3.2 or 3.0T)

1. Get a P3 with a complete service history

2. Buy a $20 thermometer to check the AC compressor (it will need to be on a warm day)

3. Check the top motor mount for cracking in the bushing

4. Check the brake booster vacuum pump for oil leaks

5. Check the clutch on the drive pulley for the serpentine belt (if you push on the belt at the AC compressor it should move easily in one direction and not at all in the other direction, if not then its time to replace the overdrive pulley)

6. Look for service records for the following
* Serpentine Belt, idler pulley, Tensioner, Overdrive pulley
* Alternator or Alternator overdrive pulley
* Thermostat (and coolant hose near by)
* Transmission fluid
* Haldex Fluid and Filter
* Power Transfer Unit (Bevel Gear) Fluid
* Rear Differential Fluid
* Brake Fluid
* Engine coolant

7. If possible get an oil change done and don't remove the oil filter until the oil has drained from the pan (the filter housing has a check valve that is known to fail and it should keep the oil in the filter housing until you remove the filter, the amount that comes out is about 2 cups, if it doesn't then the check valve is broken and the housing should be replaced, if the check valve is not repaired the engine may not generate sufficient oil pressure)


Good luck

Paul