S-70 AWD transmission

[JRL]

Remember that the bulletin is for AWD only when it comes to the (up-to 2000) older cars. If yours is a FWD and not AWD, still stay with Dex. 3. or Mobil Synth ATF unless your car is a 5 speed auto, then it WILL take the newer Volvo or #3309 ATF anyway.

3309 will work in ALL Volvo trannies.
I use it in my 850R and it shifts perfectly

[MadeInJapan]

Jim,
That's good to know but you're the only person I've ever heard say this.
Guess it's better to err on the side of #3309 than on Dex. 3 if you're not sure what exactly your tranny takes.

[JRL]

Jim,
That's good to know but you're the only person I've ever heard say this.
Guess it's better to err on the side of #3309 than on Dex. 3 if you're not sure what exactly your tranny takes.

As long as the Dex is completely flushed out, no problems whatsoever

[flynscot]

Hello! New guy to the forum here... I'm glad to see that others have been as baffled by the subject of tranny fluid as I. '00 S70 AWD here. 120K, 4 SPD auto tranny. After much research by a couple of dealers and two independants who have serviced my car in the past, it has been solidly determined that my car uses Dex III, and indeed, the chassis number is not included on the TSB.

The previous advice of looking for the 3 or 4 on your shifter seems to be very solid.

New question: Anyone have any experience using the Redline Oil synthetic tranny fluids (Either Dex III, or Mobile-compatible) in the V/S 70- series cars, as their products seem to come highly recommended for the older "bricks" (200 and 700 - series cars)? Just ordered the Redline MTF for my 740 and was considering using their ATF in my S70.

[lincolnwarner]

If you drive an automatic and on the gear shift there is a "4" as the top number before the "D" (drive), then you have a 5 speed automatic and will need the special 3309 forumlated ATF. If it has a "3" as the highest number before the "D," then you have a 4 speed automatic and will need the older Dextron/Mercon ATF. It's really that simple.

Evidently some cars build early for year 2000 still had the 4 speed automatic, so if you have a year 2000 70 series car, make sure and check your gear shift. I'm sure that is why your service dept. and Volvo in general didn't have a clue until they "officially" checked. Did they check everything against your VIN# ?? If not, I would still check my gear shift.

I bought a used Volvo 1999 V70 awd 2 weeks agon from "torch light motors" in New Jersey. Car runs great, 79000 miles, no problems except it seems the ABS Control Module is shot- I took it to Volvo Manhattan service and they agreed (codes confirmed), however when the mechanic went to replace it he says he saw that the trans was a "aw5043LE" trans and that the car "should" have an "aw42awd" trans in it- though he didn't seem sure and said "most" of the other mechanics agreed it had the "wrong" trans. he said that the angle gear bolted into the "new" trans so it "seemed" like it should work. Needless to say, I panicked, got pissed that I didn;t find this out myself before buying it (3 other mechanics looked at the car since I bought and no one said anything about this??? lastly, the gear shifter's windows do not match up with the clicks in the shifting column, there are definitely 5 clicks- was told by first "volvo" mechanic before I bought it that it had the wrong face plate on the shifter and he assured me it was NOT the trans. am sorry to be so long winded but I need some help here y'all. If it does have the aw5043le in it, is that ok, or not. Be clear, the trans shifts perfectly and has NO knocks, sticking or any problem other than the windows on the plate not matching. Volvo would not replace my ABS Control Module under my after market warranty because they thought the it was not recognizing the trans??? this only happens VERY infrequently where the abs light comes on and the speedometer and odometer stop working and the mechanic said it looked like it was original??

[MadeInJapan]

I sent you an email. I have no clue about the AW5043's...they aren't Volvo transmissions that I can tell (from VADIS confirmation) although some late 90's and early 'oo's had AW5042's. Re-check your transmission to make sure you didn't copy the numbers incorrectly. In regards to Torch Light Motors, their reputation is less than desirable. They will switch parts, etc. without telling their customers. There's a heavy debate going on at www.swedespeed.com about them right now in the Cars For Sale Classified section.

The ABS is a rebuildable item. Don't waste your $$ getting it swapped at the dealer.

[davvver]

I would like to drain/fill the ATF in my 98 volvo v70 NA. I dont want to do a complete flush since the oil is still clean and does not smell burnt. Do i need to use Dexron iii since I am not flushing all the oil out or can i use Mobil 1 syn atf for a 50/50 mix until i drain/fill it again? I assume if I were to use Mobil 3309 (which my tundra takes) I would have to do a complete flush?

Thanks in advance for the advice!

[jblackburn]

If you're going to change the fluid, you need to completely flush the transmission. For just a drain & fill, stick with the same fluid (Dexron-III). I would do 3 changes within a few months just to get the majority of the old stuff out of there.

[davvver]

Thanks...

Even though synthetic atf says it is compatible with dex iii they cant mix i guess eh?

I would prefer to eventually have syn in the tranny but do not want to do the flush as i am doing it myself and i know the oil in there is clean now and has previously been changed every 30k miles.

If i were to do a drain and fill and I have dexron iii in there now... which oil would you recommend? I only see a dexron iv on the mobil site. And the Mobil 1 says it is compatible. I find this confusing.

ps i dont know why my topic said Help!!! s 70 awd transmission" I am new here i guess it was the main topic i was reading when i pressed quick reply.

[jimmy57]

WOW, I haven't seen this way confusing thread full of misconceptions and misinformation.

JWS3309 is not synthetic. It is lower viscosity and made from a very high spec base stock oil that is dern near synthetic but was made from crude. JWS3309 has an additive package specifically adapted for transmission that use what is called "slipping lock-up". A great way to get better launch from standstill is to use a higher stall speed (some call that "looser") torque converter that amplifies engine torque more. The downside of higher stall speed TC is that when you are driving at lower speeds and in upper gears, say 40 mph in 4th on a 5 speed auto, where engine speed is way below the stall speed of TC. This situation gives a feeling of transmission slip since engine and input shaft of trans are so loosely connected several hundred RPM below stall speed. The solution is to apply torque converter clutch but not fully. A speed difference of 50-100 rpm will not transmit engine resonance from low rpm but masks the loose converter without causing damage when monitored by TCM and if trans is filled with a fluid that deals with "stick-slip" very well. Stick-slip is when a clutch lining grabs and releases, felt as a shudder.
Friction linings and seals and stuff aren't different in order to use JWS3309. It has some high powered medicine (additives) to deal with a specific problem and lower viscosity decreases friction. Lower viscosity is fine when the oil is some GOOD stuff before you ever add all the additives.

Aw 50-43 is another name for the 4 speed trans and a factory reman'd gearbox from Aisin-Warner can be labeled that way. I imagine the car with the trans labeled that way probably had a reman installed early before Volvo had the normal exchange program for gearboxes for AWD models in place. The base gearbox is the same FWD and AWD and only the final drive is adapted to drive the bevel gear. The case is drilled and tapped for bevel gear bolts too.

Another confusion debunked: The 4 speeds CAN have JWS3309 used to replace D-III. Many gearboxes can use JWS3309 where Dexron was spec'd originally. VERY FEW NEED IT!! The additives that cope with slipping lock up can fix "grabby" locking torque converter clutches IF THE SYMPTOM IS PRESENT. If the TC lock is fine then there is no benefit to spending a portion of your retirement on the DAMN expensive JWS3309 stuff. I guarantee you the lowered viscosity will not pay back the extra cost in increased MPG to an extent necessary.

Lots of fluid makers, both conventional and synthetic, attest that their ATF of some variety is compatible. Volvo does not run tests to see, why would they? ALL manufacturers like THEIR stuff and are in general not too happy about additives unless they are specified for a fix BY THEM, and they feel the same way about aftermarket ATF's.

Sometimes a transmission with an unnoticed problem will die after a fluid flush regardless of correctness or lack thereof, of the fluid used. Volvo does not (nor does any carmaker I know of) recommend flushes unless there is certain few problems where they have devised a repair method where flushing is beneficial. What they do recommend is a drain and refill that does not get all the fluid out.

Fluid color is not the do-all, end-all of fluid quality determination. Ugly fluid can be perfectly serviceable (I don't like ugly fluid either....) and cherry cough syrup clear red can have additive depletion and not be doing your friction linings and seals much good.

The best guide for taking care of auto trans is to consider shifts per mile and load. If the use of the car is heavy on town use with lots of stops then change ATF more. If you drive long distances on your commutes and trans stays in same gear for LONG periods of time the fluid is loafing and not getting warm and contaminants are not getting in it.
Trailer towing and lots of use at lower speeds in mountainous areas means more drain n fills. There is a strainer in these gearboxes that pulls from a "quiet" fluid sump. The crap is refused by strainer and sits waiting to be drained out of plug.
If the fluid isn't poisoned somehow then flushing is not needed and the machines used do not require the drain plug to be removed...NOT GOOD!!!! Flushing may not be doing as much good as drain and fill that costs WAY LESS!!!
Trans flushes help service depts like Not paid by insurance/Medicare blood transfusions help hospitals. If you need a transfusion or a flush then do it, otherwise drain your bladder or your transmission and normal elimination is sufficient.