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2001 V70 2.4T New loud exhaust sound from front of car

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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prwood
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Year and Model: 2001 V70 2.4T
Location: Salem, Massachusetts, USA
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Re: 2001 V70 2.4T New loud exhaust sound from front of car

Post by prwood »

I took my car to the local exhaust shop today, Andy's Exhaust and Undercar in Salem, Mass: http://www.andysexhaust.com/ I had a FANTASTIC experience.

Andy, the owner and sole employee, was able to repair the break in the pipe, and also replace a broken rear exhaust hanger, the lack of which had likely led to added stress on the pipe upstream and contributed to the break. The exhaust is super quiet now. He was able to do everything for $80 - $60 for the repair to the post-cat pipe and $20 for the hanger. It took him about 5 minutes to do the hanger, and 40 minutes to do the pipe repair, all while I waited. The end result is a more stable and much quieter exhaust system. It's possibly even quieter than it was before the big break started, so I have a feeling there may have been a smaller, more intermittent break prior to the big one.

Here's a photo of the finished repair job. I don't know anything about welding, but I imagine this is about as good as it's going to look given the old, broken, and rusty state of the existing exhaust.
IMG_1576.jpeg
Cars I've owned:
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE

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volvolugnut  
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Year and Model: 2001 V70
Location: Oklahoma USA
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Post by volvolugnut »

A friend once called that a 'black and decker weld'. When you finish welding, you get your Black and Decker grinder and smooth the weld bead.
It is good as long as it does not leak.

volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.

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jonesg  
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Post by jonesg »

nicely done, considering its upside down, very limited access.
You should see my welds, "the bigger the blob the better the job."

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prwood
Posts: 689
Joined: 2 October 2015
Year and Model: 2001 V70 2.4T
Location: Salem, Massachusetts, USA
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Post by prwood »

volvolugnut wrote: 08 Jun 2021, 17:22 A friend once called that a 'black and decker weld'. When you finish welding, you get your Black and Decker grinder and smooth the weld bead.
It is good as long as it does not leak.

volvolugnut
I don't believe he used a grinder on the weld. I saw him using an arc welder of some sort and then a welding torch. After the initial pass he started up the car and then went back over everything with a mechanic's stethoscope, I'm assuming listening for leaks or vibrations, and then he touched up a bunch of spots. Fingers crossed that it holds up for a while!
Cars I've owned:
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE

EngineeringBloke
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Post by EngineeringBloke »

When you are facing a 2K replacement repair bill, having someone do a great fix for 5% (or less) of that is a real source of joy, satisfaction and gratitude. Thanks for letting us know.

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