Disabling Audio Control Module (AUD) Topic is solved

[Oka]

I just replaced my door speakers (for now).
I plan on connecting the speakers to a new after market amplifier.

My question is, can I disable the car's Audio Control Module (AUD) with VIDA? Since I replaced the OEM receiver with a Kenwood, many of the Error Faults I get are audio related. My goal is to have an independent sound system.

Thanks, and you all stay safe enough.

[vtl]

You would need to change your car's configuration (in CEM). But why bother? The error is not lighting up CEL. I drive like that, with Kenwood, for almost 10 years.

Current audio setup: DDX6705s, Focal ISS165 front (with tweeters), ICU165 rear, Volvo blue sticker central speaker + TPA3116 100W amplifier using front line outs mixed to mono. Sounds great, Kenwood gives better clarity and depth on all zero settings than wife's XC60 with H&K premium sound can do, even with equalizer tweaked.

[Oka]

You would need to change your car's configuration (in CEM). But why bother? The error is not lighting up CEL. I drive like that, with Kenwood, for almost 10 years.

Current audio setup: DDX6705s, Focal ISS165 front (with tweeters), ICU165 rear, Volvo blue sticker central speaker + TPA3116 100W amplifier using front line outs mixed to mono. Sounds great, Kenwood gives better clarity and depth on all zero settings than wife's XC60 with H&K premium sound can do, even with equalizer tweaked.

Mmmm, thinking seriously about it, really, "why bother? The error is not lighting up CEL." Very good point.

Now, I know I need an amplifier to make some good difference.
1. You have the TPA3116 100W. Is that really am amplifier?
How does that work, dependent or independent of the OEM amp?
2. Must the central speaker be replaced?
3. How about your front door tweeters?
4. How about your rear trunk speakers (or are those tweeters)?

Thanks.

[vtl]

1. Yeah. Sort of. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XS98HTY I cut a trace or two and soldered something together in order to switch the chip into mono mode. Also it got a couple of noise suppressors, on power line and line-in. Can't recommend this amp, you can get any other, preferably designed for auto use (in electrically noisy environment).
2. I didn't have one. If you have it, you can reuse it, of course.
3. ISS165 comes with a tweeter.
4. They are tweeters. Still stock.


Cut the plastic in slots:

Then lift the speaker a bit and rotate CCW:

Overall 3 (I think 3) notches like that one have to be cut:

Pay attention to polarity:

Tweeter:


JB Weld it

Fireplace sealant (whatever sealant was opened):

[Oka]

1. For the amplifier, I will use the traditional ready-to-go amplifier. Am not as electrically tech savy as you.
4. Any reason for not changing the rear tweeters?
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05. Is the new amplifier dependent or independent of the stock amp?
06. What did you do to the stock amp?
07. My goal is to have a completely stand-alone sound system. That is, create a 'new' sound system and disable all stock. My fear is, with Volvo's sensitive system, it might create more issues I am willing to handle at the moment; I already have my hands full.
08. Still on amplifier. would it be possible to replace the stock amp with a new amp and keep all the speakers wires?
09. Your 100W amp was enough to drive the speakers, right?
10. What tweeter wattage came with the speakers?
11. Your pic with the tweeter JB Weld, did you use your own wires?
12. For the door speakers, for some reasons, I feel the stock wires should be thicker for the new speakers and the amp. No?

My door speakers are already mounted, which is why am asking about the tweeters and an amp.
By the way, nice tutorials.

Thanks

[vtl]

I have no stock amp (PA). This new small amp is only for driving the center channel. 100W is for one speaker only. They are pony Watts, btw. The rest is driven by Kenwood itself. I don't feel like I need to impress everyone in 1 mile radius with my music habits, so Kenwood's power is more than enough.

Wire harness in doors were left stock, if that's what you were asking.

I don't know tweeter wattage, but they are impedance matched to the main speaker, which is very important. Focal's sensitivity is much better than the stock white label speaker has, it is important to get rid of stock tweeters, or you'll never get a complete audio stage.

Rears are also impedance matched to fronts (sort of, but very close).

[Oka]

I have no stock amp (PA). This new small amp is only for driving the center channel. 100W is for one speaker only. They are pony Watts, btw. The rest is driven by Kenwood itself. I don't feel like I need to impress everyone in 1 mile radius with my music habits, so Kenwood's power is more than enough.

Wire harness in doors were left stock, if that's what you were asking.

I don't know tweeter wattage, but they are impedance matched to the main speaker, which is very important. Focal's sensitivity is much better than the stock white label speaker has, it is important to get rid of stock tweeters, or you'll never get a complete audio stage.

Rears are also impedance matched to fronts (sort of, but very close).

Definitely, "I need not impress anyone in 1 mile radius" either. Loud music takes away from sound clarity and pleasure. With the already installed speakers and the Kenwood, replacing the tweeters might give me what am looking for; 'crisp' enough output.
Will get some tweeters, test them out and go from there.

Thanks for all the information. Will report back on how things went.
Please, stay safe enough.