Broken bolt head leads to Broken Extractor Bit

[ericmci]

Neil- I think that pip is for the AC?
I do need one of those wrenches.

Abscate- I have the 14mm bolts loosened and Ive been soaking the 10mm with PB blaster for days
I wonder if I can get a wrench on it - will that one move?
Also could I just pull- that pulley off a bit and keep the belt on - remove the bracket and install new- then just put the pulley back on with everything intact? Or is this a whole serpentine belt job?

[scot850]

Not sure it is for the A/C, but I would have to crawl under the car to check. Check where the pipe starts or ends forward of the engine.

The type of wrench I am talking about looks like this:

https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/Beta-Tools ... GQC6EQ6AHD

The link is not necessary to buy the product from there, just to clarify what I am suggesting/

Neil.

[abscate]

The back of that big pulley is running the timing belt. If you mess that up,….it’s expensive. Like $2500 expensive.

I’ve cut corners on a timing belt job like using zip ties to hold the engine in time but always verified the marks before cranking, as the sound of valves and pistons hitting is disturbing to me and keep me in therapy for at least three months

If you can get that closed end offset on the M6 it will come. Even better would be getting 30 seconds of propane heat on it if you take off the plastic stuff around it

[ericmci]

That is what I was thinking- mark the pulley and zip tie the belt to it- then pull it off just enough to get a socket on the 10mm bracket bolt.
I'm going to wiggle out the half moon plastic piece of the timing belt cover there past the line-is it A/C or fuel there the hard line that snakes down and around the bracket?
Then see if I can get an offer wrench on it- but I think it will be the same height problem with the belt as a socket.
At least from what I can see right now my only hope without removing the pulley is a shorter thinner wrench?

[Sveedy]

I thought that was an oil cooler line going to the radiator.
The wrench that scott850 is recommending should work.

[ericmci]

Check it Out!
It's out and it took next to nothing to turn it - just cracked it and I was able to turn it with my fingers.
Good thing too bc that's about all the space I had once I got the offset in there.
Huge Thanks to Scott 850 and Abscate for putting on the right path.
The side 14mm seemed to have tightened up after yesterday's rain, I was able to crack them both easily enough a couple of days ago but they feel very resistant today.
I am currently soaking in PB Blaster.
Since the bracket isn't threaded - should I be putting some heat on the block behind this bracket where the bolts thread into?
Seen in the second picture.
It's a very tight fit for a torch and obviously, I want to be as careful as possible in removing these bolts in this location.

Thanks to everyone here for helping to get me this far.
Job completion is in sight!

[abscate]

Well done!!

Those are oil lines indeed, for turbo cars I think.

You can rarely spray too much PB Bladter

[ericmci]

Thank You!

I guess it must be the rain yesterday, but I was able to lightly crack the 14mm bolts a few days ago and it felt like they were going to turn
but today they felt Very tight and resistant, so I didn't push it and just soaked it with PB
I really can't get much of flame on the block where they are really threading in too crowded and a little concerned about melting oil pan gasket right there?
If I heat the bracket itself until it is white-hot will it transfer enough heat to the block and threads to free up the bolts?
Any suggestions to make sure this job finishes strong and those bolts come out safely is much appreciated.

[abscate]

No red or white hot heat needed. Just get 30 seconds of propane heat on the bolt head. Use wood to deflect the flame ftom plastic stuff

[ericmci]

Nice. I've been using layers of tin foil to protect rubber and plastics. Seems to work in the tight spots.