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Camshaft Locking Tool Instructions

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hans747
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Post by hans747 »

Oka wrote: 28 Sep 2021, 00:21 By the way, my tool bolt holder did not line up so, I employed your "janky setup", exactly like you did yours and it worked right for me. It's tight and snuggled. Thanks for the photo.
You should leave a review on the Amazon. I'm going to. I'm astounded that it had 4.5 stars when the tool consistently seems like utter crap. I've bought stuff that broke before, but never something that said it was designed for a job but every single dimension was wrong.

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darylrobert
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Post by darylrobert »

you dont need to 'stab' the blank. Be cheap and drill a hole in it and use a screw to pull it out, if like me you will likely be removing it a few times buying new ones everytime would get expensive and a waste.

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darylrobert
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Post by darylrobert »

hans747 wrote: 28 Sep 2021, 07:29
Oka wrote: 28 Sep 2021, 00:21 By the way, my tool bolt holder did not line up so, I employed your "janky setup", exactly like you did yours and it worked right for me. It's tight and snuggled. Thanks for the photo.
You should leave a review on the Amazon. I'm going to. I'm astounded that it had 4.5 stars when the tool consistently seems like utter crap. I've bought stuff that broke before, but never something that said it was designed for a job but every single dimension was wrong.
are you guys loosely (hand tight) threading all bolts first , otherwise the tool wont line up.

I read some of the amazon reviews and it appears some tools need the upper hole drilled or elongated to line up, other complaint is the bolts. The (very uncommon size) M7 bolts have very short threads so spacers must be used or they will get stuck in the camshaft.

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jonesg
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Post by jonesg »

true that, hand fit before cranking the bolts down, theres enough play.

I paid $125 for my locking tool, pricey from IPD but made better than the cheapo ebay versions.

Oka
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Post by Oka »

Oka wrote: 28 Sep 2021, 00:27 Tensioner1.jpg

Currently on the car, my tensioner is like in "A".
Ambient temp in the garage is 50F, Engine is cold.
When installing the new tensioner, it should be as in "B", right?
Thanks.
Please, disregard this question, I got the answer I need.
Thanks

Oka
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Post by Oka »

Crankshaft1.jpg
Crankshaft1.jpg (47.07 KiB) Viewed 1091 times
In doing the crankshaft seal on my 2001 XC70, the videos I have seen bypassed the removal of that cut and went straight into the seal replacement. I had seen a video where Robert mentioned that device is spring loaded. I need to replace the crankshaft seal.

In VIDA, the parts or removal section does not show that cup like shown in the photo above. I also searched "crankshaft" in parts store or Google, I still could not find such.

Any directions please?
Thanks.

Oka
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Post by Oka »

The oil pressure release valve (OEM# 463963) in my oil sump, as a valve, when I cleaned and blew on it, on both directions, air went through. Looks like the valve is bad, being a valve. I had wanted to just put it back there and don't worry about it so it won't interrupt my work. Reluctantly, I will order it.
2001 Volvo XC70/AWD/Auto/Turbo/146kMiles
2001 Volvo V70XC/AWD/Auto/Turbo/144kMiles
2002 Subaru Outback L.L. Bean/3.0/131K/AWD
2005 Volvo XC90/AWD/V8/Auto 111 Miles
2006 Toyota Sienna LE/AWD 93K
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vtl
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Post by vtl »

That cap is your VVT hub. Yes, you have to remove it for seal. On your model year it is spring-loaded.

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Post by Oka »

vtl wrote: 30 Sep 2021, 07:30 That cap is your VVT hub. Yes, you have to remove it for seal. On your model year it is spring-loaded.
True, but how it it removed. Can’t find instructions.

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Post by vtl »

Oka wrote: 30 Sep 2021, 08:15 True, but how it it removed. Can’t find instructions.


Or follow instructions in VIDA.

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