2006 Volvo S60 AWD - turbo replacement

[notny41]

Ok, did the PCV glove test and it filled the glove up. Also after moving the car out of the garage and onto the street, I popped the hood and could see smoke coming out of the little plastic tube next to the oil fill hole. After further inspection, that tube was brittle and cracked and actually came completely off as soon as I touched it.

Verdict?

[jonesg]

yep, needs full pcv service, check the oil seal in the oil filler cap, probably gone hard.

[notny41]

What does full pcv service entail, and how hosed is my engine at this point?

Is there any chance my turbo is still ok?

I forgot to mention when I was backing the car up and putting it on the street it felt like the brakes had no vaccuum boost. Then when I pulled it into the garage again the brakes seemed ok.

[TisMe]

Your engine is probably fine, do a compression test it's easy. Loan one from O'Reilly's/AutoZone if you plan to use it just once.

Can't speak for the turbo, but if all your vaping only recently manifest, I'd suspect it's also fine. Now, considering that your crankcase vent hose just evaporated, it's likely in your best interest to install a full kit. It might be safe to assume your breather pipe assembly is completely clogged, which would mean blown engine seals could be just a few boosts activations away. I can't imagine the oil trap's lower vent hoses are in much better shape.

I installed IPD's aftermarket kit earlier this summer, as they vouch for its OE-quality and I overall trust their integrity. Keep in mind it did not come with new banjo bolts nor copper washers, which you should replace every service. Regarding my kit, I can't personally vouch for its quality yet as I have put less than 10K on it so far.

You might opt to get Volvo's kit for peace of mind, and if you do I'd probably go with FCP due to their lifetime warranty. It'll run you about 40% more than quality aftermarket.

If you care for some reading, here is my own PCV saga. The fantastic folks of this forum helped me through and taught me everything I know about the system it would have been a relatively painless job if not for issues getting my 2nd banjo bolt back on, however I discovered an interesting trick for threading it... I highly recommend doing the work yourself, you'll learn a lot and refine your patience.

Real quick, now that your brittle vent hose has been removed, you may not want to run your engine much at all anymore. It routes from the oil trap to the head, and I have frankly no idea what having it removed would do. Maybe someone else can specify the effect and ease your mind.

Either way, you need to source a kit ASAP now that the age of your PCV has been proven and hoses are falling off.

Ah, and your brakes. That sounds exactly like how mine will function when I first crank over. Nothing a couple pumps of the pedal doesn't cure. But I've inspected the system and know it's up to snuff. Do you have any knowledge of what maintenance has been done on your car over the years? This is very important for whether you live with such things.

[erikv11]

What does full pcv service entail, and how hosed is my engine at this point?
...

Answered pretty throughly already. Just make sure you get the right parts for your car. It's a PITA job in terms of time investment but not technically difficult. And *for sure* clean the passageway into the sump, behind the oil trap.

...
Is there any chance my turbo is still ok?
...

As mentioned, these turbos have great longevity. Very good chance it is just fine. Still may have an oil leak and/or old cracking vacuum lines, however. If you elect to do the PCV yourself then at the same time I'd check the turbo for shaft play and replace a bunch of vacuum lines, any that you can get to. You'll have access to most of them after pulling the intake manifold for the PCV work and the snorkel tube for checking the cold side of the turbo for shaft play. I would say if the shaft play is OK then I'd do the PCV put it back together and re-evaluate for turbo issues.

...
I forgot to mention when I was backing the car up and putting it on the street it felt like the brakes had no vaccuum boost. Then when I pulled it into the garage again the brakes seemed ok.

Classic symptoms of an issue with the brake booster pump or the switch for it. If the pump is bad it may be because the booster seal is shot. Check this thread, especially the posts from jimmy57: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forum ... hp?t=88698

[abscate]

The P2s use the VVT to dump extra air into the intake for fast cat heatup, this kills the vacuum in the intake manifold and the brake booster.

Whenever I guess about which side the valve train is advanced I get it wrong and jimmy gently corrects Me, so I’ll spare the embarrassment here

The booster switch or motor might be faulty, if it isn’t running you can just wait the 30 seconds for the high idle to come down.

[TisMe]

The booster switch or motor might be faulty, if it isn’t running you can just wait the 30 seconds for the high idle to come down.

This intrigues me for several reasons. You're saying a brake pedal that takes time to receive pressure... points to a failed brake booster or switch, yet it manages to pressurize sufficiently by the time your RPMs normalize? If that's the case, this speaks even more volumes to the quality of the system's design. But I could be misunderstanding. In my E30 the brakes were mush when one of the boosters went out.

Not to derail the thread, but that reminds me how my P2 doesn't have the high rev on initial startup like all the others I've sat in. Always wondered if that was indicating something amiss. Perhaps an impending sucked valve

[erikv11]

The booster switch or motor might be faulty, if it isn’t running you can just wait the 30 seconds for the high idle to come down.

This intrigues me for several reasons. You're saying a brake pedal that takes time to receive pressure... points to a failed brake booster or switch, yet it manages to pressurize sufficiently by the time your RPMs normalize? If that's the case, this speaks even more volumes to the quality of the system's design. But I could be misunderstanding. In my E30 the brakes were mush when one of the boosters went out.

Not to derail the thread, but that reminds me how my P2 doesn't have the high rev on initial startup like all the others I've sat in. Always wondered if that was indicating something amiss. Perhaps an impending sucked valve

The reason for the vacuum lag is explained in some of those linked threads up there. Basically the brake booster vac pump is the only source of vacuum initially, then the pump isn't needed when there is vac provided from the engine.

It's not a booster switch, it's a pump switch. It switches on the brake booster vacuum pump whenever the brake booster vacuum is insufficient.

However there is a seal on the booster that is known to be problematic. When the seal fails, the pump will kick in more frequently e.g. after startup, and the pump will get overworked and fail. In that scenario (seal failed, pump failed) I wouldn't recommend you "just wait 30 seconds" as you may have a bona fide brake problem.

Yes, P2 car should high rev on startup.

[TisMe]

Thanks for the knowledge!

Yes, P2 car should high rev on startup.

The lack of my revving is now disconcerting, search results are lackluster. Expect an enquiring thread before long

[notny41]

This kit you refer to full kit. says it is for 1999-2001 S60. Is there another aftermarket kit for 2006 s60?