Just watched the vid - very good as you said. Looks like something I can tackle. Will update with progress. At the very minimum, it looks like I will need this part:
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/6612/PC ... 217-113930
2006 Volvo S60 AWD - turbo replacement
-
TisMe
- Posts: 124
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Yup, that's the hose that crumbled on you. It's possible the lower vent hoses will do similar things once you poke them, but since you're able to sideline the car with no consequence, you'll have the answer once the manifold is removed.
Some people have successfully cleaned out the various hosing and gotten away with it, but it never comes recommended for the sake of longevity. However if you wish to experiment and don't abhor the possibility of going back in prior to 100K future miles, go ahead and clean out the hosing. Just don't put my stamp of approval on your windshield
If any rubber is remotely cracked or brittle, REPLACE IT. Never worth playing with obviously compromised rubber, just ask my brothers, I've got lots of nieces and nephews.
The oil trap itself is something that could logically be reused if you clean it well enough. Might be better than getting a cheap aftermarket that, rumor has it, like to explode.
Industry protocol is to always replace both banjo bolts and their 4 (two each) crush washers, especially if your banjos are the old style with sketchy check valves waiting for their moment to detonate your engine.
I don't see anything wrong with reusing clamps if they're not all rusted and bent out of shape.
Some people have successfully cleaned out the various hosing and gotten away with it, but it never comes recommended for the sake of longevity. However if you wish to experiment and don't abhor the possibility of going back in prior to 100K future miles, go ahead and clean out the hosing. Just don't put my stamp of approval on your windshield
If any rubber is remotely cracked or brittle, REPLACE IT. Never worth playing with obviously compromised rubber, just ask my brothers, I've got lots of nieces and nephews.
The oil trap itself is something that could logically be reused if you clean it well enough. Might be better than getting a cheap aftermarket that, rumor has it, like to explode.
Industry protocol is to always replace both banjo bolts and their 4 (two each) crush washers, especially if your banjos are the old style with sketchy check valves waiting for their moment to detonate your engine.
I don't see anything wrong with reusing clamps if they're not all rusted and bent out of shape.

How did you end up getting that bottom left intake manifold bolt loose? I purchased a 1/4" drive 10mm wobble socket but I think the socket part of it is too long and the thermostat housing prevents it from getting a grip on the head of the bolt.
Well, I ended up pulling the other bottom two manifold bolts out (since they have to come all the way out anyway to get the new gasket on) and was able to wiggle the manifold up and down and the left bottom finally made its way loose. Just not sure how I am going to get that bolt tightened up again when I go to install the manifold. Here are some pics of where I'm at presently.
The box came off no problem - I was able to clean it up and it looks like it can be reused. There wasn't much sludge in it. The little plastic tube that goes from the banjo fitting to the side of the rubber boot just pretty much crumbled.
There wasn't any sludge in the pieces of the plastic tubing but the banjo fitting was plugged solid. I used a drill bit to remove the sludge from that. I did the same inside the little plastic barb piece on the other end of the plastic tube. It was not clogged completely but I was surprised how much sludge I was able to clean out of the inside of that too.
I pulled the short rubber connector that goes between the box and the block and that hole had a lot of crud in it. I sucked a bunch out with the shopvac and then dug around in that hole with a short screwdriver trying to knock as much of that stuff off and sucked it up as well with the vac. The good news was that when I put a hose up to that hole and blew into it, I could hear the oil bubbling so apparently I don't need to drop the oil pan.
I know this will probably make a lot of you cringe, but I'm planning on reusing everything but the two tubes that crumbled apart. I just want to get it all back together and see if that takes care of the profuse smoking issue, or if I have other problems. That will pretty much determine if I end up keeping the car or junking it...
So my next question is: what size silicone tubing do I use for that banjo fitting to the plastic barbed fitting?
The box came off no problem - I was able to clean it up and it looks like it can be reused. There wasn't much sludge in it. The little plastic tube that goes from the banjo fitting to the side of the rubber boot just pretty much crumbled.
There wasn't any sludge in the pieces of the plastic tubing but the banjo fitting was plugged solid. I used a drill bit to remove the sludge from that. I did the same inside the little plastic barb piece on the other end of the plastic tube. It was not clogged completely but I was surprised how much sludge I was able to clean out of the inside of that too.
I pulled the short rubber connector that goes between the box and the block and that hole had a lot of crud in it. I sucked a bunch out with the shopvac and then dug around in that hole with a short screwdriver trying to knock as much of that stuff off and sucked it up as well with the vac. The good news was that when I put a hose up to that hole and blew into it, I could hear the oil bubbling so apparently I don't need to drop the oil pan.
I know this will probably make a lot of you cringe, but I'm planning on reusing everything but the two tubes that crumbled apart. I just want to get it all back together and see if that takes care of the profuse smoking issue, or if I have other problems. That will pretty much determine if I end up keeping the car or junking it...
So my next question is: what size silicone tubing do I use for that banjo fitting to the plastic barbed fitting?
- erikv11
- Posts: 11800
- Joined: 25 July 2009
- Year and Model: 850, V70, S60R, XC70
- Location: Iowa
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Silicone will work for the short term, longer if you're ok with it. Because there is oil vapor in that line, the oil will eventually seep into and through the silicone. The hose gets all sweaty with oil. Everything works OK, but it gets messy.
Sounds like you've got a plan. Looking good!
Sounds like you've got a plan. Looking good!
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
What's the alternative to silicone? Plastic? Or rubber I suppose. I have some clear vinyl tubing I could use - I'm just wondering if that would get brittle over time too? It is quite flexible right now, but that old hose that came off cracked in about 5 different places. I think it cracked as I was pulling hoses off the breather box, but nevertheless...
- justanotherhumanoid
- Posts: 72
- Joined: 7 September 2018
- Year and Model: 2006 S60
- Location: San Diego
- Has thanked: 7 times
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While the PCV definitely needed clearing out, I don't think it's going to solve your issue, so brace for that when you fire it back up. I think it's either your turbo seals failing and leaking oil and/or coolant into your exhaust stream (which is actually best case). That or your head gasket (which is probably worst case). The turbos are very durable but 250k mi is a lot, I think your turbo seals/bearings might be shot.
On the plus side, a turbo rebuild is actually relatively cheap, it's just a bit of a PITA labor-wise. I just did one on this exact car (I also happen to have a 2006 S60 AWD). I rebuilt a junkyard 16T and swapped it in, but the process and nearly all the parts should be the same using the 14T on yours.
I used this $79 (or $99 with upgraded piston ring) kit from Gpop Shop (select Superback or upgraded piston ring Superback): https://www.gpopshop.com/product-td04comkit.html
I pulled the turbo from the bottom as I already had the angle gear out to repair the AWD (stripped collar sleeve), but I think with some creative jacking and loosening of engine mounts you could sneak the 14T out through the top as some here have done. It's still possible to access all the stuff you need to undo/redo with the angle gear still installed.
Also, regarding putting the intake manifold back on, I never completely removed that bottom left bolt, I just cut the gasket and fed it over, then I think I snuck in a crow foot on an extension to tighten it up a quarter turn at a time. Go slow cause if your wobble or crow's foot falls down below the intake, you might as well kiss it goodbye. Maybe put a cloth below if you can, just in case.
And tighten up the passenger-side banjo bolt before you re-install the manifold, which'll let you get a regular wrench on it:
Last, don't accidentally swap the banjo bolts from the side of the block and the intake, they're not the same. The one with the little bar inside it goes on the intake manifold (I think, someone please chime in if I'm wrong).
On the plus side, a turbo rebuild is actually relatively cheap, it's just a bit of a PITA labor-wise. I just did one on this exact car (I also happen to have a 2006 S60 AWD). I rebuilt a junkyard 16T and swapped it in, but the process and nearly all the parts should be the same using the 14T on yours.
I used this $79 (or $99 with upgraded piston ring) kit from Gpop Shop (select Superback or upgraded piston ring Superback): https://www.gpopshop.com/product-td04comkit.html
I pulled the turbo from the bottom as I already had the angle gear out to repair the AWD (stripped collar sleeve), but I think with some creative jacking and loosening of engine mounts you could sneak the 14T out through the top as some here have done. It's still possible to access all the stuff you need to undo/redo with the angle gear still installed.
Also, regarding putting the intake manifold back on, I never completely removed that bottom left bolt, I just cut the gasket and fed it over, then I think I snuck in a crow foot on an extension to tighten it up a quarter turn at a time. Go slow cause if your wobble or crow's foot falls down below the intake, you might as well kiss it goodbye. Maybe put a cloth below if you can, just in case.
And tighten up the passenger-side banjo bolt before you re-install the manifold, which'll let you get a regular wrench on it:
Last, don't accidentally swap the banjo bolts from the side of the block and the intake, they're not the same. The one with the little bar inside it goes on the intake manifold (I think, someone please chime in if I'm wrong).
2006 S60 2.5T AWD - Build Log
do88 intercooler, all aluminum radiator, XC90 aux transmission cooler, magnefine ATF filter, Snabb intake elbow & throttle body pipes, custom oval exhaust, rebuilt 16T swap, 17x8" team dynamics pro race 1.2 wheels, ipd sway bars, R brake swap, Hilton tune, sunroof shade that slides open when I step on the gas and closes when I stand on the brakes.
do88 intercooler, all aluminum radiator, XC90 aux transmission cooler, magnefine ATF filter, Snabb intake elbow & throttle body pipes, custom oval exhaust, rebuilt 16T swap, 17x8" team dynamics pro race 1.2 wheels, ipd sway bars, R brake swap, Hilton tune, sunroof shade that slides open when I step on the gas and closes when I stand on the brakes.
- erikv11
- Posts: 11800
- Joined: 25 July 2009
- Year and Model: 850, V70, S60R, XC70
- Location: Iowa
- Has thanked: 292 times
- Been thanked: 765 times
Yes, rubber works better.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
- abscate
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 35267
- Joined: 17 February 2013
- Year and Model: 99: V70s S70s,05 V70
- Location: Port Jefferson Long Island NY
- Has thanked: 1497 times
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I’ve never had trouble getting a 1/4 inch wobble 10mm on the right most lower intake bolt.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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