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2006 Volvo S60 AWD - turbo replacement

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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jonesg
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Re: 2006 Volvo S60 AWD - turbo replacement

Post by jonesg »

abscate wrote: 11 Dec 2021, 04:43 Your disconnects are

Remove heat shields from exhaust system

Oil banjo, oil drain line ( tough clearance on all AWD)
Coolant banjos x2

You can hack these by leaving the hard lines on the turbo and working it up with the lines on,

As always, the exhaust bolts are the ones that will make or break this job. On my T5 FWD, they came off by hand after cracking, your mileage may vary.
its easier than that, leave the oil drain tube attached , turbo has to come out the top, just rotate it to extract with the drain tube still attached, take note so it can be reinserted in reverse. Probably takes 2 people to guide it into place as its rotated.
Exhaust bolts can stay, just remove the circular clamp holding the tubo halves together.
The cast iron section of the turbo stays in place.
I recall removing the 3 bolts at the exh downpipe flange but it wasn't difficult at all.
Getting it out wasn't the hard part.

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Post by notny41 »

What was the hard part for you?

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Post by jonesg »

notny41 wrote: 13 Dec 2021, 08:17 What was the hard part for you?
getting it all back in place again. The oil drain tube was very difficult to line up.
Theres a small clamp to prevent 2 tubes rattling against ea other, its not possible to get that clamp back in place with one hand, mine is still in my tool box 4 years later.
If you opt to install the tubo first, than the drain pipe the 2 allen bolts are difficult, especially the one behind the drain pipe, use extended allen socket wrenches, ball end type will help. Glue/shellac the gasket to the drain pipe flange to keep it aligned as the drain is juggled into position. Get a new gasket and O ring or it will leak.

https://www.zoro.com/sk-professional-to ... HGEALw_wcB

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Post by abscate »

That Clamp is important, it relieves stress on the cooling and oil lines and stops them from vibrating loose.

Secret method- install the oil drain tube with gasket loosely and then guide the end into the block. Firm everything up slowly , including the clamp , keeping everything in place.

A long ball driver is grest for those (5mm hex?) small drain pipe bolts
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Post by jonesg »

abscate wrote: 14 Dec 2021, 14:24 That Clamp is important, it relieves stress on the cooling and oil lines and stops them from vibrating loose.

Secret method- install the oil drain tube with gasket loosely and then guide the end into the block. Firm everything up slowly , including the clamp , keeping everything in place.

A long ball driver is grest for those (5mm hex?) small drain pipe bolts
The clamp was impossible because I couldn't get 2 hands up there, a helper from above might work, its very fiddly.

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Post by abscate »

You can zip tie them together too, not crazy tight, just enough to stop them from shaking
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Post by jonesg »

abscate wrote: 15 Dec 2021, 02:49 You can zip tie them together too, not crazy tight, just enough to stop them from shaking
or slip a piece of split foam pipe insulation over one pipe.

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Post by notny41 »

I'm not really afraid of doing the work. I'm just afraid I will get it apart and not be able to get it back together. I am looking at this turbo on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S3S2719

it comes with the exhaust part as well, but if it were you, would you take the aluminum part off the cast_iron part and just replace the aluminum part?

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Post by jonesg »

I would try that,

if the alignment pin is missing (mine was) attach all the lines before final tightening the clamp for the 2 halves .

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