New Volvo 850 Purchase!

454cid · Post by **454cid** » 06 Jan 2022, 20:28

Hello, I've just won a local auction for a 1996 850. I don't even have possession of it yet, but am starting to make plans. It will be my daily driver. I have no Volvo experience, prior to this. I don't think I've even ridden in one as a passenger.

I tried searching timing belt service life here a few days ago, and didn't find anything that covered a 1996. The Volvo document, I found only went back to 99. The car is low miles, but I expect that even if the mileage limit has not been reached for the original, the time limit has expired. I do intend to look for a sticker to determine if it's possibly already been changed.

I've watched a couple timing belt videos on Youtube, and it doesn't look to be too hard of a job... certainly not like the timing chain videos I watched when considering a Ford 5.4L.

I'm putting together some parts orders.... filters, belts, thermostat, but am kind of holding off until I actually have the car and can go over it myself rather than guessing at what it needs.

The Trac/ABS lights are on... I understand it's most likely the module, which can be rebuilt, but could also be a few other things. Do the brakes function well without ABS? My truck tends to lock the rears up, if the fuse is pulled, as the proportioning is handled by the ABS system.

The engine numbers confuse me a bit. I've looked on the belt cover, and what I see printed there is slightly off from what I see online. B5254S is on the cover, but I believe is' supposed to be an FS?

Oro · Post by **Oro** » 06 Jan 2022, 23:20

Congrats and enjoy. The P80 is really fun, but it does have some parts that, as you said, just "time out." I bought a really clean, (relatively, 117k) low-mile PNW car about a year ago. I've still had to fix about every possibly thing that afflicts these cars regardless of care and mileage; it does seem to be more age with these than some other makes. The P2 Volvo fixed a lot of this stuff but the P80 should be viewed more as 'BMW needy' than "Volvo reliable" IMO. But none of it is really heinous.

Here's my 'build thread' elsewhere. Not to promote but it may have helpful things. I still have a few things to scratch off the list but now that I've had the car a year (only put 2k miles on it though), I am beginning to like it and not missing other newer cars at all - which says a lot. if you are a DIY guy you will have a ball (and i am guessing "454cid" implies that!). You need to not plan on making it a dd car until you've had time to mess with it, find all the problems, lay it up a few days at a time, etc. I guess you know that.

My car is now my dd car, but for nine months it was not fun as I always found something to fix, improve, or refinish. Now that it is almost done, I'm really pleased with it and this month I'm dropping in a bigger intake, turbo, and getting a ecu tune. These cars handle well. If you are from the old school - meaning you got your driver's license before say 2005 - and had to learn to make car handle instead of just relying upon HP - these are fantastic. OK, I'm assuming you got a turbo...

https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/117k ... nd.639665/

No 454 in the background, but this '32 Dodge adds some credibility chops I hope.

Post by **abscate** » 07 Jan 2022, 01:49

Second prize was 2 850s

Plan on spending about $1500 to get it to daily driver status. That’s after you evaluate it for big warts

Timing belt is a 70k / 6 year item on the 1996. It’s a $2000 repair bill if it breaks or a pulley seizes.

Rear delta links are a tough job especially in Rust Belt , $1000

Pcv check for pressure will tell you oil change history

A smooth running engine and transmission with no leaks or codes sill mean you have a runner. Everything else can be fixed by a wrench

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 07 Jan 2022, 03:17

454cid wrote: ↑06 Jan 2022, 20:28 The engine numbers confuse me a bit. I've looked on the belt cover, and what I see printed there is slightly off from what I see online. B5254S is on the cover, but I believe is' supposed to be an FS?

B5254S and B5254FS are the same engine. It the accessories that make the difference.
If it has Fuel injection it is a B5254FS. If it has a carburetor it is a B5254S. Later years Volvo dropped the F Nomenclature because all cars come with Fuel injection. S became Fuel injected naturally aspirated ( non turbo ), same as FS. T became Turbo.

1996:
S = standard (naturally aspirated).
FS = fuel injected standard (naturally aspirated) with catalytic converter.

If you don't know the history of the timing belt, change it as soon as you get it. Keep in mind the PO may of stuck a cheap belt on it. Better to be safe then sorry. The original change interview was something like 70,000 miles. Belt technology has improved in the last 25 years. Go by what the belt manufacture recommends and do not skip on quality to save a few bucks.

Post by **foggydogg** » 07 Jan 2022, 09:45

Ditto the above, and welcome to our little Tribe.
If there is any question about the engine service, belt/tensioner/water pump should be on the list early.
Take a good look at the motor mount behind the RF wheel, you'll be there anyway for the belt stuff.
The car is driveable with the ABS light on, just use the same precautions in snow you would've used driving an early big-block.
If the decal with the engine number on the plastic timing cover isn't legible, it's stamped on the block on the passenger side; '96 is early enough that may not be critical for parts info.
Robert DIY on youtube has some pretty good guides for maintenance, and there are plenty of threads here.
If in doubt, come back here, opinions freely given - some may even be helpful.

Post by **erikv11** » 07 Jan 2022, 10:56

Many "low miles" 850s at auction have a broken odometer gear, it is a common failure. If so you can pull the actual mileage from the cluster, it is kept electronically even if the mechanical gear mechanism fails, but it's tricky on a 96.

Brakes work completely fine without ABS. Also check the top and bottom engine torque mounts, these are usually shot.

Post by **BlackBart** » 07 Jan 2022, 11:03

454cid wrote: ↑06 Jan 2022, 20:28 Hello, I've just won a local auction for a 1996 850.

Did you get the one with the very rare 454 option?

454cid · Post by **454cid** » 07 Jan 2022, 17:46

Oro wrote: ↑06 Jan 2022, 23:20OK, I'm assuming you got a turbo...

https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/117k ... nd.639665/

This one is NA, which probably better for my use. I've got a 100 mile round trip for work.

I've started reading your thread, thanks.

454cid · Post by **454cid** » 07 Jan 2022, 17:49

abscate wrote: ↑07 Jan 2022, 01:49
Rear delta links are a tough job especially in Rust Belt , $1000

The rear suspension is something I have not explored yet, via Youtube. I guess I'll have to do that.

Pcv check for pressure will tell you oil change history

I don't feel a breeze when I remove the oil fill cap. I hope I don't have to deal with that now. The timing belt actually looks like an easier job, to me.

454cid · Post by **454cid** » 07 Jan 2022, 17:52

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑07 Jan 2022, 03:17 1996:
S = standard (naturally aspirated).
FS = fuel injected standard (naturally aspirated) with catalytic converter.

I don't think any vehicles in the US still used a carb, in 96.

If you don't know the history of the timing belt, change it as soon as you get it. Keep in mind the PO may of stuck a cheap belt on it. Better to be safe then sorry. The original change interview was something like 70,000 miles. Belt technology has improved in the last 25 years. Go by what the belt manufacture recommends and do not skip on quality to save a few bucks.

I looked for a sticker today, and didn't see one. I'll probably pull the cover in the next couple of says and do a bit of poking around, but at this point, I'm planning on doing the timing belt.