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2000 S70 radiator core support replacement need help.

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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Rocket99
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Re: 2000 S70 radiator core support replacement need help.

Post by Rocket99 »

removed the radiator pack again and radiator support, only way to get good access to starter motor

energized the system, turning the key will not crank it

shorting the HOT on the starter motor to the green signal wire , the starter works fines

swapped out the ring antenna from another car .....no difference

Ignition switch? Green signal wire got damaged. I now think the impressive bundle of wires passing through there, containing the green signal wire did take a hit in the crash, probably how the no crank condition came about.

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misha
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Post by misha »

Did you tried to start it in N position?

That signal wire for starter can be replaced,but you need to trace it where it goes through.

Before you dig into that...check if it will start in N position.
'97 850 2.5 20v / fully equipped / Motronic 4.4 from the factory / upgraded with S,V,C,XC70 instrument cluster / polar white wagon
History of Volvos in the family:
'71 144 S
'73 144 De Luxe
'78 244 DL
'78 244 DL
'79 244 GLE
'85 340 GLS

Rocket99
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Post by Rocket99 »

did try neutral position, no start by turning the key

ran a seperate wire from the starter motor small gauge tab, usually energized by a green wire from the terminal in the motor fuse box .... at the white plastic surrounded connector, then it cranked using the key as normal
What now, thread a single wire from the starter to the fuse box that is clearly normally interacting with the ignition switch??

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misha
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Post by misha »

You will need the wiring diagram for starter circuit.

Trace the signal wire from ignition switch or fuse box,put it out of use and run a new one.

You don't want a damaged wire from ignition switch or fuse box to dangle around and to cause a short circuit.

Apparently...line from ignition switch to fuse box is ok...damage is somewhere between the starter and fuse box...according to what you said.
So...cut it from fuse box and starter and run a new one.
'97 850 2.5 20v / fully equipped / Motronic 4.4 from the factory / upgraded with S,V,C,XC70 instrument cluster / polar white wagon
History of Volvos in the family:
'71 144 S
'73 144 De Luxe
'78 244 DL
'78 244 DL
'79 244 GLE
'85 340 GLS

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

The starter circuit is impressively complex.

The ignition switch terminal 50 connects to the hot trigger side of the starter relay. The ground side of the relay is grounded by the 2/76 lock controller, under command from the ECU

Both functions , presence of 12V at relay, and logic enabling cranking, have to be functioning to crank

The remote starter terminal at the block does not bypass the PNP switch on an AT car, by the way.
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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Locked to merge to existing thread
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Rocket99
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Post by Rocket99 »

abscate wrote: 14 Jan 2022, 01:03 The starter circuit is impressively complex.

The ignition switch terminal 50 connects to the hot trigger side of the starter relay. The ground side of the relay is grounded by the 2/76 lock controller, under command from the ECU

Both functions , presence of 12V at relay, and logic enabling cranking, have to be functioning to crank

The remote starter terminal at the block does not bypass the PNP switch on an AT car, by the way.
Thank you sir

Your info here flew over my head, with time and studying my (somewhat sketchy) Haynes wiring diagram that covers many models I may be able to grok it , I will follow up , try to understand

by running a new wire from inside the engine fuse enclosure (the white plastic one) to the green signal wire, then turning the key did finally cause the starter motor to crank the engine.

my first impulse is to add a small new wire inside a new split loom to replace the apparently damaged green one, hopefully I could get inside the engine fuse box, abandon the old wire and run a new one from that location to the starter

Stumbling around in the dark here

Rocket99
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Post by Rocket99 »

Volvo starting circuit, hi rez.pdf
(884.67 KiB) Downloaded 223 times
Volvo starting circuit, hi rez.pdf
(884.67 KiB) Downloaded 223 times
misha wrote: 13 Jan 2022, 15:21 You will need the wiring diagram for starter circuit.

Trace the signal wire from ignition switch or fuse box,put it out of use and run a new one.

You don't want a damaged wire from ignition switch or fuse box to dangle around and to cause a short circuit.

Apparently...line from ignition switch to fuse box is ok...damage is somewhere between the starter and fuse box...according to what you said.
So...cut it from fuse box and starter and run a new one.
My first impulse is run a new one
I agree I want to find the damaged one and be sure it is capped off, insulated, to head off any short

That square "gutter" conduit stuffed with maybe 100 wires will be near impossible to fully trace that green one. If I can find its other end I guess I could simply route a new wire in new small diameter split loom enclosure into the engine fuse box

The terminal inside the engine fuse box has green with red stripe, not solid green as at the starter motor.

I do need a wiring diagram specific for this model 2000 V70 XC

this is a tough one

I scanned and tried to add the Haynes schematic

shows terminal 50 wire on ignition switch yellow/white becoming Green/ red then entering engine fuse box, Gn/R is visible in engine fuse box at that terminal

starter relay, cube shaped inside engine fuse box, sends current to the signal wire to starter when key is turned to start, shows Gn/R but this car its solid green at starter.

I have no idea what the 2/76 lock controller is

this diagram says signal feed to starter motor is Gn/R but it is Gn only on this car

I need to get into the engine fuse box, perhaps drill new access hole for new wire, looks like the platform in the engine fuse box must release and lift up out of it for access to wires inside

Rocket99
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Post by Rocket99 »

that engine fuse box is definitely made to keep people out of it

What about route the new wire directly into a new hole in the side of it, adjacent to the exposed connector inside, to a spade female connecter on to the spade male?

Tracing the green signal wire from the starter back to "wherever", does not seem to be in the cards

getting a good look at the ignition switch will be worth doing to see if it is there.

Rocket99
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Post by Rocket99 »

"Both functions , presence of 12V at relay, and logic enabling cranking, have to be functioning to crank "

I connected (Jumped temporarily) the termminal in engine fuse block (you call it remote starter ??) direct to the start terminal on the starter motor, normally a green wire. Then using key did crank the engine.

Does this mean making that jump connection permanent, with a new dedicated wire, Inside a new small size split loom, will get this system starting, excluding other starting problems of course.

My superficial understanding of complex Volvo systems is slowing me down big time

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